Missing Build Docs / Schematics

[Kenit91]

Just saw the updated Delegate (boneyard) compressor is now available. Can we please have the build docs?

And I'm seeing you don't have the LDR in stock at the moment, would this work?

Photo cell 5k-10k, 0,2M, 0,45

Photo cell, diameter 5mm Light resistance: 5k-10k Dark resistance: 0,2M

www.musikding.de

The light resistance is equal to what is needed, but the dark resistance is 200k instead of 500k.

Thanks!

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

It will still work, but you will get less sustain with 200K dark resistance. More important is response time. How long does it take to get up to 200K?

 

[Kenit91]

Well I haven't built it yet, but you're the expert here so I should aim higher to get the most sustain? And the light resistance plays no role here? Next best thing on musikding would be:

Light resistance: 8k-20k
Dark resistance: 1M

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

That might work better. Light resistance does play a role, you need it to be 10K or lower. If you don't use the LDR called out in the Delegate BOM, then you are rolling the dice. Given the issues people on this forum have had with parts from Musikding, I cannot recommend them. YMMV.

 

[zgrav]

and you can also put in a vactrol with good results, like the vtl5c9 that smallbear carries. Not a cheap part, but a good fit for the upgraded version of the Warden that Chuck put together.

 

[cooder]

That might work better. Light resistance does play a role, you need it to be 10K or lower. If you don't use the LDR called out in the Delegate BOM, then you are rolling the dice. Given the issues people on this forum have had with parts from Musikding, I cannot recommend them. YMMV.

.... someone else here keen to see the build doc... just sayin...

 

[zgrav]

the forum posts from Chuck have all the secrets including the marked-up schematic. : ^ )

 

[cooder]

the forum posts from Chuck have all the secrets including the marked-up schematic. : ^ )

Cheers, I wasn't sure if there's more 'secrets' to be found in upcoming build doc, I'll check back at that post.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

There is one new "secret" to be found in the Build docs.

 

[cooder]

There is one new "secret" to be found in the Build docs.

I love surprises and suspense... if it doesn't take too long to find out...

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

There are two optional red LEDs in parallel with the LDR. They are there to keep the 1st stage from saturating during the attack when SUSTAIN is cranked up. I used them in one compressor and they reduce the pop. If you like the pop, or slow ATTACK settings, then leave them out.

 

[cooder]

There are two optional red LEDs in parallel with the LDR. They are there to keep the 1st stage from saturating during the attack when SUSTAIN is cranked up. I used them in one compressor and they reduce the pop. If you like the pop, or slow ATTACK settings, then leave them out.

I was wondering about those as I saw them on the layout pic... cheers for the heads up.

 

[Kenit91]

That might work better. Light resistance does play a role, you need it to be 10K or lower. If you don't use the LDR called out in the Delegate BOM, then you are rolling the dice. Given the issues people on this forum have had with parts from Musikding, I cannot recommend them. YMMV.

Yeah I've had some hit and misses from them before, but being from Europe I do save a bit on shipping at least. I'll try to source the GL5516 from somewhere else, unless pedalpcb stocks it up again. Thanks a lot for the circuit and your help!

 

[benny_profane]

There are two optional red LEDs in parallel with the LDR. They are there to keep the 1st stage from saturating during the attack when SUSTAIN is cranked up. I used them in one compressor and they reduce the pop. If you like the pop, or slow ATTACK settings, then leave them out.

Do they operate as a type of threshold indicator?

 

[moonlightpedalbuilds]

In the Abider Doc

Does the PCB Image on the doc match the actual PCB? C26 470n but the pcb photo shows an electrolytic. Image on the website is also different from one on the doc.

 

[Barry]

In the Abider Doc

Does the PCB Image on the doc match the actual PCB? C26 470n but the pcb photo shows an electrolytic. Image on the website is also different from one on the doc.

View attachment 7704

I always go with what's printed on the board itself, that's usually the final version after all the tweaking's been done
Edit: I think there was one exception to that recently, but for the most part it holds true

 

[Robert]

Yes, the PCB matches the build doc, but as Barry said, you should follow what is printed on your PCB. Never follow the preview image on the product page.

470n is the same as 0.47uF
Printing the value in nF takes up less space, also the silkscreen text is so small that the decimal could be overlooked.

 

[moonlightpedalbuilds]

Yes, the PCB matches the build doc, but as Barry said, you should follow what is printed on your PCB. Never follow the preview image on the product page.

470n is the same as 0.47uF
Printing the value in nF takes up less space, also the silkscreen text is so small that the decimal could be overlooked.

I’m about to order the board and gathering parts. How do I differentiate electrolytics and film caps using the doc? In this case, what you are saying is that C26 is a 0.47uF electrolytic cap.

 

[BuddytheReow]

I’m about to order the board and gathering parts. How do I differentiate electrolytics and film caps using the doc? In this case, what you are saying is that C26 is a 0.47uF electrolytic cap.

Cross reference using the board pic. Sometimes the value itself is a dead giveaway.

 

[ADAOCE]

Southern belle build docs?