The one with the lowest resistance is going to make the connection.
Stuff you wanted to know but were afraid to ask
- Thread starter spi
- Start date
Feral Feline
Well-known member
A liltle late to reply, but wanted to add to...
What JTEX said in post #339: use a HPF (something I think every bass player should have right after tuner, in terms of importance).
Also, you could add a pot to your Thumbsucker, between the jack and the circuit-input, to attenuate the signal from your Ray's Active-Pre. You could even put the pot on a toggle or stomper to bypass it when you're playing a bass without a preamp (or switched off your Ray's Pre).
Of course, lowering your bass's volume whenever you engage the ET works in place of the added pot, and doesn't cost you anything extra — if your bass has a volume sweet-spot, then the added pot on the ET-build may still be worthwhile.
Has anybody made the Engineer's Thumb with a side-chain?
Might be worth looking into.
Or DIY your own multi-comp — split the signal and compress the highs and lows separately; start messing with crossovers... I might have to go over to TalkBass and pick FEA's Frank Appleton's brain...
At this point, I'd definitely use an adapter-board for that 2N5457...
YourGuitarist
Member
God bless the internet
YourGuitarist
Member
I think soldering rework is more likely to toast a part. The initial placement is usually forgiving.
fontoponto
Well-known member
Are the weird resistor values from dead end fx based on the actuall values the dmm showed while tracing (including the tolerance) or are the makers of the circuits (noticed that for spaceman fx) able to hear a pin drop?
Robert
Reverse Engineer
VanWhy
Well-known member
Ahh I guess it's Frequency Adjustment Control? I've heard that used before but never knew. And just saw it again when looking at the Magic Pedals DA120
Ginsly
Well-known member
I'm asking this AFTER a long, involved thread many months ago, but... I'm still not quite sure how to best connect power to a Muffin Crumb Amplifier or Tone daughterboard... Seems like you could just take a second wire from the DC Jack, but it was mentioned before that this would bypass any protection circuitry.
This is a VERY stupid question considering that these are you-pick-the-values utility boards for various situations, but... I'm also not really sure where to start when it comes to choosing values for either the Tone or Preamp/Clipping/Recovery blocks. First time using this kind of add-on.
This is a VERY stupid question considering that these are you-pick-the-values utility boards for various situations, but... I'm also not really sure where to start when it comes to choosing values for either the Tone or Preamp/Clipping/Recovery blocks. First time using this kind of add-on.
Robert
Reverse Engineer
If you're adding it to an existing build, tap 9V from the cathode of the main PCBs polarity protection diode.
If you're using it standalone (probably not) use a 1N5817 diode instead of wire to connect the positive lug of the DC jack to the PCB.
As far as the values, start with values from one of the Muff variants.
If you're using it standalone (probably not) use a 1N5817 diode instead of wire to connect the positive lug of the DC jack to the PCB.
As far as the values, start with values from one of the Muff variants.
Ginsly
Well-known member
Gotcha, thanks much! I believe this is what @jwin615 had mentioned, but I got caught up in an alternative method of flying a cap and diode off of the actual Crumb if going straight from the DC Jack... If tapping the cathode of the pcb’s protection diode won’t cause a loop that seems much easier.
I’ll definitely take a look at the various Muff variants, that should help with the Tone Crumb for sure. The Preamp Crumb seems a little trickier to determine possible values, especially since it can do a few different things. Maybe looking at Muff schematics will help with that too?
Last edited:
ICTRock
Well-known member
frequency attenuator control
Similar threads
