Stuff

We could certainly speculate and come up with a clean blend control.... but I really hate speculating.

Alternatively, if anyone happens to see a 4-knob version for sale anywhere let me know.
But….my entire electronics knowledge-base is speculative! 😰

I’ll keep an eye out for the key to the alternative method. 👍
 
Had there been pads, I may have been worried…

V7whg52.jpg
 
I’ve been working on Chuck’s mini-toob pedal. It’s my first experience with these and I’ve learned a few things, but mainly that you have to pay close attention when breadboarding as they are easily rendered useless with stray current.

This, mostly unbeknownst to me, though I had suspicions…I built it and fired it up!

WiOIMnE.jpg


Pretty, huh? Pretty dead. A couple of misplaced nodes convinced me there was trouble, so I rigged a test unit.

ripcagH.jpg


Impressive eh? Not really, but it tells me a) if the toob is functional and b) what the current draw for matching. Using 9vdc through an 820Ω resistor into pin 5. Jumper pins 1&2, then 3&4. Now set your DMM to DCA (100uA or greater) and connect the positive lead of the DMM to the positive rail and the negative lead to pin 1.

NKPiQvE.jpg


That’s what I like to see! My DMM also reports current draw but not as accurately.

5Qr5nk7.jpg


Now to make certain the breadboard is wired the way I intend it to be ;)
 
I forgot to mention…in the above configuration;

Pin 1 (plate) 9vdc
Pin 2 (screen) 9vdc
Pin 3 (GND) 0vdc
Pin 4 (cathode) 0vdc
Pin 5 (filament) 1.23vdc

zBo4hjm.jpg
 
Back
Top