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fig said:
:ROFLMAO:

Did I use it improperly? Our daughter was telling us that she felt old because someone used that term and she didn't know what it meant. I took a stab in the dark there.
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Nah, I think you used it pretty much the right way. I was never really up to date with the lingo in my own generation, and I’m even less so aware of the new zoomer trends. The squidward dab just felt like the appropriate response
 
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As it turns out, I only overloaded V1. They show a much higher filament voltage when damaged. The test rig is noisy but provides proof that audio is passing.

I first turn on the filament power, freeing those captive electrons from their cold negative rail. Then I power up the main attraction, the B+ anode @ 25V to make an offer the freed electrons cannot refuse.

I turned the anode voltage up slowly at first, seeing if there were any ledges along the way…not really, and the output increases incrementally with the voltage. I think it’s supposed to, so yay!

Even with a single stage you can tell it’s a valve-driven circuit. Especially when powering up/down. (y)

Next I’ll try to get the whole enchilada together with power filtering and all the other bells and whistles. Well, it won’t have a tube-drive IR-loader but I didn’t see one on Chuck’s schematic so…whew!

Now, I’m off to order Mexican…I have this sudden craving….😋
 
I nearly forgot to mention, the mag-lamp made a bzzzp! noise and the lights went out. :( Looking for a replacement bulb.
 
Almost ready to connect the socket and SMPS…

0Dg9IKv.jpg
 
A Sunday morning moment with Fig

Here’s the thing about running 260V through a breadboard;

It’s dangerous! Even I know that, so #1 rule for #1 is no touchy while power on, and FULLY discharge all HV caps prior to going in .

Besides, I get to use the Fig Labs variac! yay. It’s been stinking up my lab for two years so time for it to become useful.

Thanks for reading!

This has been a Sunday morning moment with Fig
 
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While I was monitoring the contest thread last night, and congratulations to @Barry, that’s TWO amps you’ve won (that I know of). (y):love: - I fashioned this little monster…

YB7JBpM.jpg


I give you the arachnitube . Slick eh? I’ve seen similar pieces for sale, but they were wider and take up too much breadboard. The ”stinger” is the LV heater tap.

Meanwhile I am doing a 30v & 9v version. Much safer working voltages and for those who don’t have a fancy-ass programmable power source perhaps the only route. I’ll grab the 9v schematic CDB posted over at the Boneyard, where you can’t help but learn something, and I recently found this 30v layout which we’ll try first. I’m a little perplexed as to why it doesn’t show the 12v heater tap connection to pins 4 & 8. Crappy schematic? Dumb builder? Both? I have little ego or shame so let’s find out!

11QjRAE.jpg


The same rules of engagement should apply as it is a very healthy habit to have, should you later migrate to higher, deadlier voltages.

Stay tuned!
 
Yup…the “stinger” which looks cool as hell is pin 5, not 9 (of course). I’ll throw it in the adapter box and use for a metal can op amp like a hi-rise intake manifold on a hotrod, or something.

So for now, this is the rig..a SIP-style ala stripboard.

adivdHH.jpg

0o9r2WO.jpg
 
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