Tayda UV Printing

finebyfine

Well-known member
That’s honestly such great news. I’ve had such a hard time gauging the colors of the powder coat, so this will make my own color choices so much easier
Yeah this one’s absolutely huge for me. I have enclosures in most of their colors but definitely have hesitated on some because I couldn’t gauge it, and I might have had better outcomes with some previous designs. Tayda somehow just keeps getting better and better :)

Here's an Illustrator swatch file of the colors they have listed, along with an approximation of the red. Also includes the Roland Versaworks swatches. files.fine.rip/TaydaColors.ase
 
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Bricksnbeatles

Well-known member
Sometimes I really crack myself up.

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Funny you should do that— I actually planned a KOT build a while ago (still haven’t gotten around to making it) that I’m calling the “Autonomous Collective of Tone” as a reference to Monty Python, in the scene in ‘Holy Grail’ where the peasant says “I didn't know we had a king! I thought we were an autonomous collective.”
 

AubreySound

Member
My First 3 from Tayda!!
On the buffalo one, the white wasn't intended to show below the buffalo. Some people on another forum liked it that way, but I'm doing to do another go and not add the buffalo to the 'white' layer.. I'll probably lighten up the color of it as well.. As for the other 2, I'm beyond happy with how they turned out!!!!
 

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AubreySound

Member
Anyone notice Tayda's starting to list the pantone colors of their panted enclosures? This makes doing mockups sooooo much easier. Clicking it goes to pantone's site with color formulas.

View attachment 12818

Edit:
Also for burnt orange at the very least, it's spot on. This photo is a little redder than real life but the swatch matches completely.

View attachment 12819
Amazing.. For my Army Green enclosure I had to take a screen cap of a post in this thread and use an eyedropper tool on it to get somewhat the right color :p
 

SYLV9ST9R

Well-known member
My First 3 from Tayda!!
On the buffalo one, the white wasn't intended to show below the buffalo. Some people on another forum liked it that way, but I'm doing to do another go and not add the buffalo to the 'white' layer.. I'll probably lighten up the color of it as well.. As for the other 2, I'm beyond happy with how they turned out!!!!
Ace work!
 

thewintersoldier

Well-known member
My First 3 from Tayda!!
On the buffalo one, the white wasn't intended to show below the buffalo. Some people on another forum liked it that way, but I'm doing to do another go and not add the buffalo to the 'white' layer.. I'll probably lighten up the color of it as well.. As for the other 2, I'm beyond happy with how they turned out!!!!
very professional looking and the aluminum knobs look great. Bonus points as Aubrey is my youngest daughter's name, and I picked it out!
 

finebyfine

Well-known member
My First 3 from Tayda!!
On the buffalo one, the white wasn't intended to show below the buffalo. Some people on another forum liked it that way, but I'm doing to do another go and not add the buffalo to the 'white' layer.. I'll probably lighten up the color of it as well.. As for the other 2, I'm beyond happy with how they turned out!!!!

Wow! Incredible job
 

quality_jones

Active member
Ok. I am wondering if I'm going to have to overhaul this file. I built this in Affinity Designer and the white circle is in the color layer for illustration purposes.
The two orange stripes have strokes on either side and are currently hiding under the white circle. I just know that if I do a subtract on them, it will introduce strokes on their border with the circle, which I don't want. Am I correct in assuming that I'll have to eliminate all overlap to get things to print correctly? If so, anyone know any tricks to preserve the stroke as is?
 

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SYLV9ST9R

Well-known member
Ok. I am wondering if I'm going to have to overhaul this file. I built this in Affinity Designer and the white circle is in the color layer for illustration purposes.
The two orange stripes have strokes on either side and are currently hiding under the white circle. I just know that if I do a subtract on them, it will introduce strokes on their border with the circle, which I don't want. Am I correct in assuming that I'll have to eliminate all overlap to get things to print correctly? If so, anyone know any tricks to preserve the stroke as is?
I know in Illustrator, I would "Outline stroke", you may try to google an equivalent and try that?
 

quality_jones

Active member
Just an update for people who are using Affinity Designer (not sure if this applies to other programs)
I had done some successful prints on enclosures before, having downloaded the Roland spot color palettes from some random place on the internet. (User @Danbieranowski has been awesome by posting the same file in this thread so you don't have to go Googling like I did.)
Well, I had forgotten where my swatches were (since I had imported them as a document palette rather than an application palette) but somehow knew in my head that CMYK values for the spot colors were 50,25,25,0 for the GLOSS layer and 25,25,25,25 for the WHITE layer. This was also suggested by @dmnCrawler at his excellent tutorial on the Angry Charles printing project.
Well, three enclosures came yesterday and the two that had white layers actually came out grey. the Gloss layer seemed OK, though.

Opening up my previous .afdesign files which had printed correctly, I was able to check the fills on the WHITE layer and sure enough, C, M, Y, and K all had different values.

Learned my lesson to use the original swatches. At least I didn't order multiples of these!

IMG_20210713_213813-01.jpeg
 

Danbieranowski

Well-known member
Just an update for people who are using Affinity Designer (not sure if this applies to other programs)
I had done some successful prints on enclosures before, having downloaded the Roland spot color palettes from some random place on the internet. (User @Danbieranowski has been awesome by posting the same file in this thread so you don't have to go Googling like I did.)
Well, I had forgotten where my swatches were (since I had imported them as a document palette rather than an application palette) but somehow knew in my head that CMYK values for the spot colors were 50,25,25,0 for the GLOSS layer and 25,25,25,25 for the WHITE layer. This was also suggested by @dmnCrawler at his excellent tutorial on the Angry Charles printing project.
Well, three enclosures came yesterday and the two that had white layers actually came out grey. the Gloss layer seemed OK, though.

Opening up my previous .afdesign files which had printed correctly, I was able to check the fills on the WHITE layer and sure enough, C, M, Y, and K all had different values.

Learned my lesson to use the original swatches. At least I didn't order multiples of these!

View attachment 13635
Ive had a similar issue where my white came back as Grey despite using the swatch. At least it doesn’t look bad!
 

benny_profane

Well-known member
The CMYK value alone won’t work. It has to be applied as a spot color, and spot colors have to be retained/honored when you export to PDF. That being said, I’ve had situations where white has been grey even though it was a spot color and in the ‘WHITE’ layer.
 
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