Tayda UV Printing

Big Monk said:
I have a suspicion that they will use a a “triage” approach and prioritize large orders.

My current order of 26 enclosures is moving faster than my previous order of 5. Much faster in fact.
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I don't know any details about how they work, but I suspect if it's a bunch of similar enclosures, it might be much faster doing those at once rather than 5 different pedals one by one. I feel like they at least do powder coating in batches of the same colors.
 
1000009568.jpg

Okay so I decided to do a Chromium version of my pedal in the style of the mirror face Mesa Rectifiers. I'm choosing to see the scratchability of the paint as a feature not a bug. Like those "thin skin" strats.

I'm honestly blown away by the paint (although I did handle it with extreme caution.

The one thing I am bummed about however is there seems to be some pretty severe bleed in the white layer.

1000009575.png 1000009576.png
I mean jeez! The white really bled all around. I almost feel silly raising an issue with Hugo about a Chromium enclosure that isn't scratch or chip related. But it looks strangely sloppy compared to all the other colors that were printed... 🤷
 
UtilityBeltFX said:
View attachment 73326

Okay so I decided to do a Chromium version of my pedal in the style of the mirror face Mesa Rectifiers. I'm choosing to see the scratchability of the paint as a feature not a bug. Like those "thin skin" strats.

I'm honestly blown away by the paint (although I did handle it with extreme caution.

The one thing I am bummed about however is there seems to be some pretty severe bleed in the white layer.

View attachment 73328View attachment 73329
I mean jeez! The white really bled all around. I almost feel silly raising an issue with Hugo about a Chromium enclosure that isn't scratch or chip related. But it looks strangely sloppy compared to all the other colors that were printed... 🤷
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Is that the gloss that’s bleeding? I’ve noticed it being sloppy lately too.

Is there supposed to be a white outline around your black logo?
 
Is there an updated guide for working with Inkscape/Scribus? I can't seem to find one and I don't understand why my file is getting rejected for having no data in the white layer. Is there a way to check this without a paid Adobe product?

For reference, my process was roughly:

1. Create design in Inkscape with appropriate layers (`WHITE`, `COLOR`)
2. Export by doing `File` -> `Save as...` -> `Layers as Separate SVG`
3. Scribus -> Create from Template -> 125B
4. For each layer, select appropriate layer in Scribus, `File` -> `Import` -> `Get Vector File`, select appropriate layer SVG from Inkscape
5. Import swatches by doing `Edit` -> `Colors...` -> `Import` -> select AI file from Tayda
6. Replace all colors on `WHITE` layer by doing `Edit` -> `Replace Colors...` and selecting the current white layer colors with `RDG_WHITE`
7. Convert to CMYK by doing `Script` -> `Execute Script...` -> `rgb_to_cmyk.py`
8. Go to `Edit` -> `Colors` -> `Remove Unused`. Make sure remaining colors are all CMYK
9. `File` -> `Export` -> `Save as PDF` -> `PDF 1.5`, check `Include Layers`
10. On color tab, set `Output Intended For: Printer`
11. Save file

EDIT:

I solved this by making sure I download the latest version of Scribus (1.6.2 as of this writing), then exporting the PDF as PDF 1.7.
 

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Fama said:
I don't know any details about how they work, but I suspect if it's a bunch of similar enclosures, it might be much faster doing those at once rather than 5 different pedals one by one. I feel like they at least do powder coating in batches of the same colors.
Click to expand...
I tend to see that. I have 50 drill/paint/print enclosures in my order that are all the same color but the print is 25 of one design and a handful each of 4 other designs, and the 25 were finished a couple days before the others.

My order placed April 7 just shipped today.
 
iamemployed99 said:
Is there an updated guide for working with Inkscape/Scribus? I can't seem to find one and I don't understand why my file is getting rejected for having no data in the white layer. Is there a way to check this without a paid Adobe product?

For reference, my process was roughly:

1. Create design in Inkscape with appropriate layers (`WHITE`, `COLOR`)
2. Export by doing `File` -> `Save as...` -> `Layers as Separate SVG`
3. Scribus -> Create from Template -> 125B
4. For each layer, select appropriate layer in Scribus, `File` -> `Import` -> `Get Vector File`, select appropriate layer SVG from Inkscape
5. Import swatches by doing `Edit` -> `Colors...` -> `Import` -> select AI file from Tayda
6. Replace all colors on `WHITE` layer by doing `Edit` -> `Replace Colors...` and selecting the current white layer colors with `RDG_WHITE`
7. Convert to CMYK by doing `Script` -> `Execute Script...` -> `rgb_to_cmyk.py`
8. Go to `Edit` -> `Colors` -> `Remove Unused`. Make sure remaining colors are all CMYK
9. `File` -> `Export` -> `Save as PDF` -> `PDF 1.5`, check `Include Layers`
10. On color tab, set `Output Intended For: Printer`
11. Save file
Click to expand...
I know @flemming uses this workflow on Linux, maybe he has some thoughts.
 
iamemployed99 said:
Is there an updated guide for working with Inkscape/Scribus? I can't seem to find one and I don't understand why my file is getting rejected for having no data in the white layer. Is there a way to check this without a paid Adobe product?
Click to expand...
I use Inkscape + Scribus and while I don't follow the same exact workflow as you, when I look at your resulting file in Acrobat Reader it seems okay to me. I've never use the script to convert from RGB to CMYK. I have always done it manually. This won't fix your problem, but in general I suggest putting white under everything, in the above you sometimes have it under other colors and sometimes not. The reds will pop better if white is under them. Sorry I know that last part doesn't really help.
 
flemming said:
I use Inkscape + Scribus and while I don't follow the same exact workflow as you, when I look at your resulting file in Acrobat Reader it seems okay to me. I've never use the script to convert from RGB to CMYK. I have always done it manually. This won't fix your problem, but in general I suggest putting white under everything, in the above you sometimes have it under other colors and sometimes not. The reds will pop better if white is under them. Sorry I know that last part doesn't really help.
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So I did figure this out, sort of. The Scribus wiki has 1.4.6 as the latest stable version. The latest stable version for Windows is actually 1.6.x, which you can get by going to their actual SourceForge page (didn't know people still used SourceForge to distribute anything that wasn't malware). So I downloaded that one, redid the process, exported the PDF as v1.7, and it worked.

Appreciate your help! I actually had white under some colors and some not so I could see the difference. Good to know I might as well just slap it under everything.
 
Anyone have a quicker way to get ahold of Hugo/Tayda team. Their Masking service is “out of stock” which I’m sure just means the large number they added in stock to be able to order has now worked its way to 0. Trying to get my order in but want to include the masking service. Emailed [email protected] and sent a message their their website contact without any response for a few days.
 
Quick question for all you illustrator gurus!

I have a design combining of an image I vectorized. I have added labels for all the controls.

One of the labels happens to go over part of the image.

Reading the Tayda UV print page is says:

“IS EASY IN ADOBE ILLUSTRATOR, JUST SELECT AND CAT AND HOUSE AND UNDER PATHFINDER SECTION CLICK MERGE AND SOFTWARE WILL DO THE JOB FOR YOU AND REMOVE ANYTHING FROM BACKGROUND”
This isn’t really the case. I have tried that and it doesn’t seem to make any difference at all. I want to make sure the lettering doesn’t merge into the image.

Any help always appreciated!!
 
Try this?


jessenator said:
I recommend you save-as and make a separate "art prep" file, so you don't worry about destroying a working file with editable (live) text and so on.

So for an example with color:
that cyan colored guide inside the enclosure area is the Tayda print limit for this 1590B print:
View attachment 66427 View attachment 66430
Turned off the fake enclosure layer I use now we're prepping art, and turned on the transparency grid (shift+ctrl/cmd+d) and set it to dark for my cleanliness and comfort:
View attachment 66431

in outline mode again, we can see there's a lot of overlapping things as well as things outside the printable area. We'll fix that.

View attachment 66432

first, let's fix the overlaps. select everything in your art layer (which should be outlined and expanded) and go to the pathfinder and use "Divide" (lower left):
View attachment 66433
What that does is basically trim everything that's currently overlapping.

In this design's case, I had a stroke around the text in black, to set it off from the patterns of the face, so I'll need to delete those by use the white arrow tool and selecting a part with black (the enclosure color), then going to the select menu> same > fill color

View attachment 66434

now our text has a buffer from the rest of the green
View attachment 66435 View attachment 66436

Now we'll crop it all, so it is within the printable area. Make a rectangle the size of the print area and align it to your guide or artboard
View attachment 66437

Then select all

View attachment 66438
continued....
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