The correct orientation for the keyway slot in a 3PDT is...
- Thread starter Erik S
- Start date
finebyfine
Well-known member
Literally never thought about it until this thread. A survey of the 6 pedals I have at work are an even split.
I’ll never care enough one way or the other but I like @JTEX’s rationale. I could also entertain the argument that up would be less likely to allow shoe gunk into the enclosure from the act of stomping one.
But even as the most anal guy I’ve met I don’t think this one’s for me.
I’ll never care enough one way or the other but I like @JTEX’s rationale. I could also entertain the argument that up would be less likely to allow shoe gunk into the enclosure from the act of stomping one.
But even as the most anal guy I’ve met I don’t think this one’s for me.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Always up. Sick bastards y’all are, voting down!
JTEX
Well-known member
Sideways! Sidewayyyysssss! Left or right, depending on who you vote for.
"Coming soon"
KR Sound
Well-known member
What’s the purpose of it? I get it for the little switches that have the keyed washer and the kitchen to keep them from rotating when mounted correctly- like the pots with the both that we typically break off.
Is it just to hold the threads in place during and after manufacturing since it looks pressed and not welded?
I should invent a notch filler/hider to make it look seamless
If you haven’t seen one broken down before:
The three metal contacts pivot on across pins 2/5/8 and the plunger/spring inside the actuator (?) make the white plastic thingy rotate up or down changing the contacts from the top/middle row and the bottom/middle row. Thats the part that can be melted and affected by applying too much heat when soldering the footswitch. Plus any grease/lube can melt or vaporize maybe?
(The spring and plunger are upside down in that pic. The metal part goes up into the actuator)
There are also little tiny springs that hold the little metal pointy doo-dads in the white plastic hobby-job that I don’t feel like taking out because I know I’d lose them.
Is it just to hold the threads in place during and after manufacturing since it looks pressed and not welded?
I should invent a notch filler/hider to make it look seamless
If you haven’t seen one broken down before:
The three metal contacts pivot on across pins 2/5/8 and the plunger/spring inside the actuator (?) make the white plastic thingy rotate up or down changing the contacts from the top/middle row and the bottom/middle row. Thats the part that can be melted and affected by applying too much heat when soldering the footswitch. Plus any grease/lube can melt or vaporize maybe?
(The spring and plunger are upside down in that pic. The metal part goes up into the actuator)
There are also little tiny springs that hold the little metal pointy doo-dads in the white plastic hobby-job that I don’t feel like taking out because I know I’d lose them.
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Erik S
Well-known member
I’d been wondering that too.
I think you solved the mystery with that disassembly. Looks like it keeps the switch body from spinning relative to the threads.
KR Sound
Well-known member
I think it’s now time to do a tear-down and compare all the different ones at different price points to see what the differences are.
Erik S
Well-known member
That sounds super interesting! If you end up buying a bunch of different ones I’d also love to see some video/ description of what the click force and feel differences are.
I’ve only ever used the tayda blues and never had a problem with them. I bought some black ones to go with a color theme, but I didn’t end up using them because I didn’t like the click.
KR Sound
Well-known member
I definitely will if it hasn’t already been done before. I assume different springs have to do with the amount of force applied, but there has to be something else with the design and geometry of the white thingamabob that changes the feel of the actuation.
And momentary ones also- what makes them not click?
Here’s a cross section illustration:
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Erik S
Well-known member
I want to know all of that!
Definitely deserves it’s own thread. Way more important/ useful than this keyway nonsense, and folks who are done reading this thread might be interested to see what you’re doing.
KR Sound
Well-known member
Ya, didn’t mean to hijack this. I’ll start another one later.
Robert
Reverse Engineer
Do these not "click"?
I need a non-clicky momentary in a different footprint from the usual SPST.
Coda
Well-known member
This is JHS-level innovation right here…
Erik S
Well-known member
Hijacking is when you post garbage in someone’s useful/ purposeful thread.
You’re posting useful stuff in my garbage thread. I don’t know if there’s a name for that, but it’s the opposite of hijacking.
Harry Klippton
Well-known member
Redeeming.
KR Sound
Well-known member
Correct.
3PDT Low Profile Footswitch - Momentary
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Robert
Reverse Engineer
Wait, so there's no (usable) key way in the momentary switches?
The one switch where the orientation actually matters... the irony.
Most of the lab test equipment I used to calibrate had (and used) the keyway to prevent hardware from turning and to ensure it was oriented correctly. The chassis was purposely milled to accommodate.
They also put the nylon washer on the inside and the star washer on the outside, where they were originally intended. Not only does it add something soft for the inner nut to "bite" into, it also offers some protection from outside moisture.
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