SOLVED Van Pelt Drive Problem

Travis

Active member
I build this Van Pelt Drive and it's doesnt work. I don't know why.
 

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WK29 BS170 DSG

D1: 7.75v
S1: 1.54v
G1: 0.62v

D2: 1.31v
S2: 2.46v
G2: 0.26v

D3: 2.49v
S3: 0.86v
G3: 0v


IC TL072
18
27
36
45

1: 4.36v
2: 4.23v
3: 4.29v
4: 0v
5:4.24v
6: 4.29v
7: 4.29v
8: 8.59v

I'm just catching up on this...
Don't bother measuring gate voltages unless you know the meter's input resistance. Even then, it's problematic. The cheap ones are 1Meg and the good ones are 10Meg. They will all affect the measurement. We can infer the gate voltage from the source & drain voltages.

Q1:
D1 voltage is too high, S1 is too low. Measure the voltage at the high (not ground) side of R3.

Q2:
I don't believe the reading because it is not possible for the drain voltage to be less than the source voltage.

Q3:
All 3 readings make no sense.

My best guess is there are shorts or some wrong resistor values.

IC voltages all look good.

Now for the swaps:
Swap 1.
Q1 voltages are not right.
Q2 voltages are not right.
Q3 voltages are not right.

Swap 2:
Same story.

I think some of the measurements are suspect. The board has to be very clean and very dry because the tiniest leakage currents will throw off the bias on the MOSFETs. Make sure only the meter probes are touching the board. Skin resistance is smaller than the gate resistors, so if your fingers touch any of the gate circuitry, the measurement will be wrong. It's very easy to damage MOSFETs with static electricity, so it's possible some of them are bad. Your worktable should be grounded and the humidity must be above 25%. When not installed on a board, MOSFETs should be stored in an anti-static bag or a conductive container. Aluminum foil works well in a pinch.
When everything is working properly, the drain voltages on Q2 & Q3 will be around 4.5V. Q1's drain will be more like 6V.
 
I'm just catching up on this...
Don't bother measuring gate voltages unless you know the meter's input resistance. Even then, it's problematic. The cheap ones are 1Meg and the good ones are 10Meg. They will all affect the measurement. We can infer the gate voltage from the source & drain voltages.

Q1:
D1 voltage is too high, S1 is too low. Measure the voltage at the high (not ground) side of R3.

Q2:
I don't believe the reading because it is not possible for the drain voltage to be less than the source voltage.

Q3:
All 3 readings make no sense.

My best guess is there are shorts or some wrong resistor values.

IC voltages all look good.

Now for the swaps:
Swap 1.
Q1 voltages are not right.
Q2 voltages are not right.
Q3 voltages are not right.

Swap 2:
Same story.

I think some of the measurements are suspect. The board has to be very clean and very dry because the tiniest leakage currents will throw off the bias on the MOSFETs. Make sure only the meter probes are touching the board. Skin resistance is smaller than the gate resistors, so if your fingers touch any of the gate circuitry, the measurement will be wrong. It's very easy to damage MOSFETs with static electricity, so it's possible some of them are bad. Your worktable should be grounded and the humidity must be above 25%. When not installed on a board, MOSFETs should be stored in an anti-static bag or a conductive container. Aluminum foil works well in a pinch.
When everything is working properly, the drain voltages on Q2 & Q3 will be around 4.5V. Q1's drain will be more like 6V.
Thanks Chuck.
I'm learning a lot I Will improve those things
 
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