VIIB build: The Kung-Fu Killer Cat...

[Stickman393]

Nice pedal... I was able to scrounge up the service notes online: pin 4 on the clock gets set to 120Khz: BBD bias set by feeding the input with a 200hz signal, checking between 0 and 2.5V, reading at the output jack. Adjusted in 10uS and 20uS until I got a nice, even waveform on both sides with similar shapes.

I gotta say, I'm a HUGE fan of the relay switching on this thing, and the hold for non-latching mode. It's a simple, elegant way to switch modes...and it reminds me of a truism in the world of behavioral economics...

If you want someone to do something, MAKE IT EASY FOR THEM TO DO SO.

This implementation of the relay switch makes both latching and unlatched mode available on the fly, which makes it vastly more likely that I'll use both.

And yeah, I can't ever seem to grab a matching clock and BBD from my stash. It's a thing.

 

[Gordo]

Now THAT is a great looking enclosure. How'd you do 'dat????

 

[Stickman393]

Thank you sir! The enclosure was a pre-drilled pedal PCB 6 KNOB enclosure from tayeda, I like their sand texture matt black powder coat.

The engraving is part of my foray in learning the strange and extremely complicated world of CNC...I've got a thread about it in the toolbox where we I try to share lessons learned, separate the signal from the noise, and work on my little alter to narcissus.

 

[Gordo]

Oh dang, that’s right. I totally forgot about the CNC. The cool part is that the photo makes the graphics look its embossed and not engraved. Really nice job.

 

[BuddytheReow]

Where'd you get your resistors? None of them have the conventional color coding. Sweet looking build!

 

[Stickman393]

The PRP PR's are the red ones, I get those either from sonic craft or parts connexion. Sonic craft tends to be a little cheaper and sell the versions with the tighter temperature coefficient (TC50'S VS PCX's TC100)

The brown ones are vishay/dale, mouser carries those. RN55's (MIL spec) in a 1/10th to 1/8th watt, or CMF55'S (same thing...but labeled differently, and not de-rated) at 1/8 to 1/4 watt. Both the PRPs and the Vishays are USA-made...nice, thick leads...and are non-ferrous (that is, non-magnetic).

Does not being magnetic make a difference? Eh, probably not in this use case. You'd likely need to have the resistors adjacent to a transformer or something before it would start to make a difference.

The PRP's are marketed as "audiophile" grade...now...do THOSE make a difference? AGAIN...Probably not. But...I like the way they add a splash of color to my builds. They're pricy in comparison to the Vishays, (38 cents or so a pop, no quantity discounts that I've found. Vishays I tend to buy by the 100 for between 12-18 cents each.)

So...I tend to use the PRPs, along with TAKMAN carbon films, in and along the signal path. Anything ancillary gets a vishay.

HONESTLY, it's mostly just a psychological device I use to get myself to look at the schematics as I put the PCB together. Learn the circuits...or at least build familiarity, pattern recognition, yada yada.

Sometimes I dont have the right value in one or the other. Or I resort to a different brand...whatev. Its not a hard and fast rule.

 

[Stickman393]

Hey guys...guess what....

I switched the labels on the depth and rate knobs. On purpose. I never make mistakes.

 

[fig]

That's sneaky! Wait until you go to adjust it. That's when you jump out from around the corner and laugh "got ya!". Boy won't you be surprised?