What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Gordo said:
Whoa, just take my credit card info now for the tester. Plus you gotta pick up your guitar one of these days
:)
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Right, I often forget I still own that guitar :ROFLMAO: I'll be out of town for a bit starting this week, but I'll hit you up when I'm back and find a time to come by and grab it, I can certainly bring by a prototype for you to check out the tube tester as well.
 
I usually like to have 2 projects going at once in case one starts to feel like work lol. Currently I have a SheepyLove Tush Tush that I previously soldered ribbon cable into the in, outs etc on the bottom and have 2 holes I can’t clear with wick or sucker for the live of me. I refuse to trash it. Next is the Cast Iron Od (Lollar Overdrive) and last a Golden Falk I’ve yet to finish because of previous errors. I have 5 thru hole J201s now to continue although I don’t have a fancy tester. I have board from Chuck that I need to put together that reads Idss and vp maybe?

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Band of Dans said:
If you haven’t tried yet, add some solder to both sides of those holes first. That works for me 9 times out of ten. Sometimes I’ll hold a resistor leg or something in there, add solder to *that*, and usually that will clear up any cold solder.
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I haven’t tried that but will! I thought about getting a very small dremel bit that’ll fit inside the hole because I’m scared I’m close to burning the traces.
 
bluedmc777 said:
I haven’t tried that but will! I thought about getting a very small dremel bit that’ll fit inside the hole because I’m scared I’m close to burning the traces.
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A trick that I do, hold the board close to your bench, heat the joint and immediately tap it in your bench. I have a vampire solder sucker someone posted here. It hasn’t failed yet. I just bought refills of the silicone tubes.
 
bluedmc777 said:
I haven’t tried that but will! I thought about getting a very small dremel bit that’ll fit inside the hole because I’m scared I’m close to burning the traces.
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I've had pretty good luck with the Vampire/Engineer SS-02 type solder sucker you can see in DWGI's picture (I actually have a cheap Aliexpress knock-off, but get one in that similar style - the blue plastic solder suckers suck, or, well, don't suck enough - you get what I'm trying to say). You can just use any normal silicone tubing for the nozzle as long as it's the right size, I believe. And remember to clear it every few tries, it can get clogged up.

But I've also ordered a cheap set of stainless steel pins somewhere (I think) that are meant to be used for holes like that, since solder doesn't stick to them. Heat the solder and stick the pin in. I think that would be a much safer way to clear holes than a dremel, at least on paper.

Adding more solder and using the solder sucker has worked well enough for me that I don't need to use other options.
 
...a SPECIAL porpoise...

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the Noctis Fuzz is here! (keeley moon op amp fuzz)

w/ 2x RC4559
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tbh i didn’t really have any expectations or anything, but i was keen to check it out, and as it turns out - this is probably the sickest opamp muff/fuzz i’ve tried yet.

i compared it against an ehx V5 opamp muff build, and a keeley psi fuzz (opamp muff) build, and this Moon/Noctis fuzz smokes both of them.
it’s huge. massive sound. crikey. but still articulate enough for what it is.
and the gain is ridiculous, i had it sitting around 2o’clock to match what i normally get from cranking all the way up on an opamp muff.
beyond that it gets a bit wild and blown out (for humbuckers at least -could be a lot of fun for single coil players)
tone control / toggle modes work well (scoop/mid hump/flat) and all seem quite useable.
highly recommend.
build one. it’s sick. it's going on my list for sure.

i liked flat mode the most so that’s what’s engaged in this demo
 
jcpst said:
Thanks for the investigation and demo @owlexifry ! Sounds rad with the 4559s. The ICs for it are in the shop, already on a DIP breakout, which is also rad.
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no worries 🤙🏻
i chose 4559s as they’re a very close substitute, with nearly identical specs.
i didn’t realize this until last year when i saw it mentioned in an aionfx build doc:
‘The 33178 is an older op-amp, still readily available in SMD format but nearly impossible to find in DIP.
We cross-referenced datasheets for dozens of different audio op-amps and found that the RC4559P is a near-exact match.
It could be the case that they are truly identical and that the slight differences are due to different
measurement techniques between ONSemi and Texas Instruments. But either way, it’s very close in the ways that matter—slew rate, noise figure, and gain-bandwidth product—and in our testing it sounded the same.’
 
Love these breadboard posts. After building a bunch of stuff I’ve always wanted to have on my board, it’s kinda hard to justify doing full builds just to try stuff out (not that that’s stopped me thus far). I’m a bad and slow breadboarder, but these posts have been really encouraging to do more try-before-buy and get those breadboard reps in.
 
Band of Dans said:
Love these breadboard posts. After building a bunch of stuff I’ve always wanted to have on my board, it’s kinda hard to justify doing full builds just to try stuff out (not that that’s stopped me thus far). I’m a bad and slow breadboarder, but these posts have been really encouraging to do more try-before-buy and get those breadboard reps in.
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I highly recommend it. Perfect for experiments and a better alternative for socketing all the things (I still socket ICs, and I'll die on that hill).
 
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