finebyfine
Well-known member
I buy ts100 tips which are easier to find singles. I liked my ts100 more but the enclosure near the dc jack sure to fail eventually on those
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
andare
Well-known member
The USB jack in my Pinecil is a bit wonky. These are cheap things, hopefully they'll last a few years.
finebyfine
Well-known member
the ts100 shells came and went pretty fast, but I have a few pinecil replacement bodies stashed away in case the internals are fine but the exterior breaks - they're pretty cheap on ebay
Feral Feline
Well-known member
andare
Well-known member
What is this cyberpunk hydra I'm looking at?6PDT shenanigans!
szukalski
Well-known member
A heartfelt thanks. That rocks!
dawson
Well-known member
That there's a parallel-blend looper that puts the loops in series when bypassed.
I'll do a full write-up before long but that switch is such a spectacle- I had to share it!
Good memory, @Feral Feline!
I'll admit- I didn't 'pull the trigger' right away either, but I think I'll be getting my money's worth..
I mean, just look at it!
Alan W
Well-known member
I think I mentioned the "rebirth" of my Eastman arch top recently, after they sent me a new tailpiece to replace the broken one. But, in playing it again, I remembered a problem it always had—the floating bridge gets pulled towards the bottom because of how much bending I do; even (or maybe because) of the medium (12-54) strings on it, there's not enough downward pressure on the bridge to keep it in place. I thought about pinning the bridge, but didn't want to lock into one intonation position, which varies a small bit with strings used.
So I came up with a clever work a round. Last week I brought it into my old shop, and milled out a pocket under it, and made a strip of PETG (plastic) that was a tight fit length-wise, but had 1/8th inch to either side to allow for intonation movement, and used a super strong PSA on it (pretty much what auto makers use to hold their names etc. onto car bodies). It worked, but not 100%, so I decided yesterday to pin the plastic strip down. I drilled three .028 holes (the pin diameter I was using), but then had to deal with the pin heads—I had made the pocket .085 deep, to account for .075 thick plastic strip and the PSA (~.008) so there wasn't any space for the pin heads. I spun a very small ball point burr between my fingers on each of the holes to create tiny countersinks for the pin heads, clipped the pins off at about 3/8th inch, and drilled some .018 pilot holes for them. I don't see how this can move.
On the photo showing the strip inside the pocket, you can see the clear PSA on the top surface. Under the strip, I have three small wads of a light tack PSA to hold the strip in lace while I flip the bridge into position (located by the tape on the guitar)—then, after pressing down on this, I lifted the bridge up, with the strip in place.
So I came up with a clever work a round. Last week I brought it into my old shop, and milled out a pocket under it, and made a strip of PETG (plastic) that was a tight fit length-wise, but had 1/8th inch to either side to allow for intonation movement, and used a super strong PSA on it (pretty much what auto makers use to hold their names etc. onto car bodies). It worked, but not 100%, so I decided yesterday to pin the plastic strip down. I drilled three .028 holes (the pin diameter I was using), but then had to deal with the pin heads—I had made the pocket .085 deep, to account for .075 thick plastic strip and the PSA (~.008) so there wasn't any space for the pin heads. I spun a very small ball point burr between my fingers on each of the holes to create tiny countersinks for the pin heads, clipped the pins off at about 3/8th inch, and drilled some .018 pilot holes for them. I don't see how this can move.
On the photo showing the strip inside the pocket, you can see the clear PSA on the top surface. Under the strip, I have three small wads of a light tack PSA to hold the strip in lace while I flip the bridge into position (located by the tape on the guitar)—then, after pressing down on this, I lifted the bridge up, with the strip in place.
DGWVI
Well-known member
Fired up right away... After I realized I'd mixed up the 072 and 071 in the Paralyzer 
Think I need to add a master volume to the parallel filters, they get quite loud when both are engaged.
Anyway, I'll get it tidied up and post a build report and demo either tonight or tomorrow
Think I need to add a master volume to the parallel filters, they get quite loud when both are engaged.
Anyway, I'll get it tidied up and post a build report and demo either tonight or tomorrow
DGWVI
Well-known member
I need to remember to add one of these to my next order. Always been curious about it
Cybercow
Well-known member
Robert did a great job of replicating the original circuit. Each and every component value matches that of the original circuit - only without the buffered bypass and 'Low Battery' indicator bits.
Right now, they are out of stock. But more are coming.
finebyfine
Well-known member
not the work bench per se, but I'm reaping the benefits of our tattoo shop's new professional photography setup:
a coworker's wife has been on my case about making a website for my pedal building (so she can give it to her coworkers - so I genuinely appreciate the gentle push) and I'm trying to take photos of any decent looking pedals I have laying around for it.
a coworker's wife has been on my case about making a website for my pedal building (so she can give it to her coworkers - so I genuinely appreciate the gentle push) and I'm trying to take photos of any decent looking pedals I have laying around for it.
jimilee
Well-known member
You work at a tattoo shop?
finebyfine
Well-known member
yup! I do everything but tattoos at Howdy Tattoo in St. Louis
benny_profane
Well-known member
Honk if yr howdy!
andare
Well-known member
Everything looks beautiful!
What is that yellow pedal, a voltmeter?
finebyfine
Well-known member
thank you! Almost makes me glad that I'm getting my all time favorite enclosure design back in the mail for repair so I can take a good photo.
Small yellow one is an ammeter for pedal current draw with a cheapo (but accurate enough) module from aliexpress
Passinwind
Well-known member
Today, finishing up two preamp candidates for a luthier friend's killer new build:
