Tayda UV Printing

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Anyone who has ordered a hammered copper enclosure, do you think the text would look ok if it was black outline with a hole in the middle so the hammered copper shows through? Or should I just go with brown on the inside or something like that. It's hard to tell when I just use a very hackjob of a background as a guide (cropped from their picture).
 
Fama said:
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Anyone who has ordered a hammered copper enclosure, do you think the text would look ok if it was black outline with a hole in the middle so the hammered copper shows through? Or should I just go with brown on the inside or something like that. It's hard to tell when I just use a very hackjob of a background as a guide (cropped from their picture).
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I’ve only used one, but I think that would have worked fine. There was one of those dreaded undefined white layer problems and what they sent me was a bit of a mess, but I’d love to try a do-over eventually, especially since I gave it to my brother as a casual tester and he’s been gigging with it for the best part of a year now.
 
Quick question for the Tayda UV printing Gurus..... Is the following a good idea?

I was planning to get the pedal UV printed by Tayda and print dots at the center of my drill locations. Once I got the pedal, I would drill the holes, using my location dots, etc.

The only reasons for this method is to save money and make drilling adjustments (if my measurements were wrong).

Thoughts? Thanks as always.
 
Synchrony Pedalworks said:
Quick question for the Tayda UV printing Gurus..... Is the following a good idea?

I was planning to get the pedal UV printed by Tayda and print dots at the center of my drill locations. Once I got the pedal, I would drill the holes, using my location dots, etc.

The only reasons for this method is to save money and make drilling adjustments (if my measurements were wrong).

Thoughts? Thanks as always.
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Thats how I always do it. Rather than dots, I do crosshairs with a .1mm line width.
 
Synchrony Pedalworks said:
Quick question for the Tayda UV printing Gurus..... Is the following a good idea?

I was planning to get the pedal UV printed by Tayda and print dots at the center of my drill locations. Once I got the pedal, I would drill the holes, using my location dots, etc.

The only reasons for this method is to save money and make drilling adjustments (if my measurements were wrong).

Thoughts? Thanks as always.
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I've done that a lot, but crosshairs. If the control graphics alignment is off a little it makes it simple to keep the knobs lined up with the tick marks and/or function labels. But I'm not keen on metalwork (have to do it outside in random crazy weather), and just having someone else do the drilling is often a huge bonus to me.
 
Sorry to hijack, but does anyone know off hand how much Tayda’s printing costs for 100x 125B enclosures? My art is just black and white over an enclosure that’s painted a solid color. Thank you!
 
yazooligan said:
Sorry to hijack, but does anyone know off hand how much Tayda’s printing costs for 100x 125B enclosures? My art is just black and white over an enclosure that’s painted a solid color. Thank you!
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$200, plus the cost of whichever enclosures. An additional $100 if you’re doing a gloss layer too
 
I am about ready to try Tayda for my first UV print. I have used @Fingolfen wonderful instructions, so the process was made much easier. If able, I'd really like if someone would check my graphics and see if I have everything done correctly. I think I have it right, but a little confused about the gloss layer. It obscures viewing the underlying layers, even if I hide the gloss layer, so I am unsure if it is correct. The picture should be the phases of the moon. The pink dots are for my drilling pattern (that I'll do). I also want to make sure that the I will not have any of the printed area on the pedal's edges.

Here is a link to the Adobe file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1npcqMbnavXh14hU_bheaLxvqUTk9kGMl/view?usp=sharing

If there is an easier way to share the necessary information, let me know.

Thanks for the help!
 
Synchrony Pedalworks said:
I am about ready to try Tayda for my first UV print. I have used @Fingolfen wonderful instructions, so the process was made much easier. If able, I'd really like if someone would check my graphics and see if I have everything done correctly. I think I have it right, but a little confused about the gloss layer. It obscures viewing the underlying layers, even if I hide the gloss layer, so I am unsure if it is correct. The picture should be the phases of the moon. The pink dots are for my drilling pattern (that I'll do). I also want to make sure that the I will not have any of the printed area on the pedal's edges.

Here is a link to the Adobe file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1npcqMbnavXh14hU_bheaLxvqUTk9kGMl/view?usp=sharing

If there is an easier way to share the necessary information, let me know.

Thanks for the help!
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I think you could just attach it to your post.

Either that or set the Drive link to "anyone with a link", currently they have to ask for permission with their own email address.
 
Looks correct to me, if I hide the gloss layer, I don't see the gloss anymore. They seem to have the correct spot color, same for white. Everything is vectors.

Color for the moon(s), and the small drilling aids, and everything else is in white? And a gloss layer on everything? Is that correct?

The drilling aids won't show up like in the preview since they don't have white below them, but I would assume they still work for drilling.
 
Fama said:
Looks correct to me, if I hide the gloss layer, I don't see the gloss anymore. They seem to have the correct spot color, same for white. Everything is vectors.

Color for the moon(s), and the small drilling aids, and everything else is in white? And a gloss layer on everything? Is that correct?

The drilling aids won't show up like in the preview since they don't have white below them, but I would assume they still work for drilling.
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The moons should have a gray gradient (like a normal picture of the moon), not white. I did put a white layer underneath the color image/layer. When I look at the moons in the color layer, the swatch is a “?.” I assumed that was due to the fact that the picture was not one color.

To get the moons, I cut and pasted the picture and then did the instructions on Steggo’s thread. Did I get the color wrong for the moons or the colors didn’t import correctly, etc.

Thanks again.
 
Hi all. I'm new here but been jamming for over 20 years and got more gear than talent lol. I think I spend more time on gear than practicing half the time. Well thanks for all the information guys, its awesome how you guys take the time to share and help out. Yep I've spotted the Tayda printing deal on my searches to fill my long ambition to fill my own pedalboard from scratch. I've read through this thread and definitely picked up some valuable tips. Like many of you, illustrator is out of the question for my needs and I am feeling confident I've cracked a printable PDF using Inkscape and Scribus. Me being me I didn't go for some simple logo, no all out abstract just to make life fun. And it was. It's out there but so is the pedal. Scored some germanium transistors ( which are costly in New Zealand) and hoping this will blow my little big muff off the table. haha.
I know I'm new and I hate to ask, but I've been working on the creation of this to a workable outcome for quite a while and I'm dying to know if it'll work or not. I've posted a pik of what I'm hoping the finished pedal will look like. Colours are still rich in rgb from inkscape. I managed to keep it close to this look when I converted to CYMK. Adobe reader shows correct layers and I think it's good to go. I haven't seen much mention of Scribus in my reading here and I'm also interested why not. It seemed easy enough for the persistant trialist to figure out. Maybe there's a drawback hidden in the corner with it, again quite interested to know this too. If any of you kind sirs/ madams would be able to check my PDF you would make my day. Cheers :-)
 

Attachments

Might be handy for some. I've attached an export from sketchup of Tayda colours -they are screen shot colour snaps from their site so not precise but gives a good quick reference for colour choice options. I 've been using sketchup for years and 2017 version can still create texture and colours in your materials list including your completed artwork on top of your mocked up pedal. Ill add some more pics below, to show my sketchup setup if anyones interested in going that far
 

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  • boxes and bits standard sizes ALL COLOURS.jpg
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I like sketchup for seeing the 3d and the truer perspective of the finished product. piks below showing my template file with all boxes in all colours, knobs and bits, lot of copy and paste but set up for handy playing around now. Oh and I do have a life i just dont watch tv ha. and I love this stuff.
I think the fuzzer looks mean
 

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  • FF ARTWORK SKETCHUP.jpg1.jpg
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  • FF ARTWORK SKETCHUP6.jpg
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