I can't waterslide

[passtheducky]

I still suck at waterslides. I could do the regular clear film ones fine, but I am now trying to use the film-free laserjet kind and I can't get the image to adhere to the enclosure.

Using Sunnyscopa Clear Film Free LaserJet paper in a Brother laser printer.

1. Yes, I'm printing the image on the right side of the paper
2. Applying a decent layer of that special W1+ glue
3. Yes, I'm putting the decal face down on the enclosure and the back comes off fine.
4. I tried using both a hair dryer and a heat gun to dry it. I tried a lot of heat, a little heat. Can you cook it too much here?
5. Whatever I do, the image peels off with the film instead of adhering to the enclosure.

Does this stuff not work on raw aluminum? I'm trying to do a design where the "white" is brushed aluminum coming through the non-printed parts.
Does the aluminum need a clear coat or something to make a smoother surface that I can stick to?

 

[Harry Klippton]

Yes it works fine on raw aluminum. I much prefer to put it on an undrilled enclosure. I bake mine two separate times

 

[mkstewartesq]

Same here. Once I apply the glue and the decal, I then bake it at about 235° F for about 10 minutes. Then I take the film off and bake it again at the same temperature for about 30 minutes.

One thing you need to be careful to do is, just like a regular waterslide decal, use a squeegee to squeeze out all the glue and really make sure the decal is making good contact with the surface all over before starting your curing. I sometimes wet a finger and run it gently over every bit of the image on the decal to make sure it is really making good contact with the glue before curing. To date, I’ve had almost no problems with the decal adhering – and even when I’ve had bits come off when I peel off the film, we’re only talking about specks they can be filled in easily with just a tap of a sharpie or something similar.

Mike

 

[Bio77]

It works especially well on raw enclosures. It looks like yours might be sanded. A couple of tips: 1. Clean the enclosure with soap and water really well. 2. Don't apply too much glue. A thin layer works best. 3. (Most important) After soaking the label and getting it to come off the backing paper, thoroughly dry it. I pat it with two paper towels, really well. Then right before I apply it, I pat it a few more times with a fresh paper towel. When this stuff first came out, I found that that having any water around really affects adhesion.

Also, as HK said, best to apply the decal before drilling. Your pedals will look better too, you can punch and drill your holes to line up perfectly with the art.

 

[passtheducky]

Ok thx all. Sounds like I'm too wet and too cold. I wonder if the instructions I read said to bake at 100 celsius !! which I interpreted as 100F !! I'm going to try making it much hotter !!

Don't laugh, but what do you think about using an air fryer for the curing if I can get the temp right?

I'll give it another go.

 

[Bio77]

Wouldn't use anything that would be used for food later. I'm not sure what is in the glue, could be toxic. I have a crappy toaster over in the garage.

 

[Cybercow]

I've found that the right wetting solution(s) can really help with waterslides. I use the MicroScale solutions for appropriate enclosures. The Micro-Sol works great for corners and rough textured enclosures; even the textured Gorva enclosures. I just lightly wet the enclosure surface then liberally brush on the MicroScale solution with a fine painter's brush. I freaked out the first time I used the stuff when I saw wrinkles form as it was setting and drying; but after just waiting for it to dry (at room temp - no added heat), everything laid down perfectly flat.

 

[Bio77]

I've found that the right wetting solution(s) can really help with waterslides. I use the MicroScale solutions for appropriate enclosures. The Micro-Sol works great for corners and rough textured enclosures; even the textured Gorva enclosures. I just lightly wet the enclosure surface then liberally brush on the MicroScale solution with a fine painter's brush. I freaked out the first time I used the stuff when I saw wrinkles form as it was setting and drying; but after just waiting for it to dry (at room temp - no added heat), everything laid down perfectly flat.

View attachment 66486 View attachment 66487

I've used this with the traditional waterslides. I'm not sure it is comparable with the film free process. Have you tried it?

 

[passtheducky]

You guys are great. I dried the decal really well, used less glue, and put it in the air fryer for 10m on 230F … and it came out PERFECT!

 

[Cybercow]

I've used this with the traditional waterslides. I'm not sure it is comparable with the film free process. Have you tried it?

No. I've not yet tried film-free stock. I've got some picked out in my wishlist.

 

[giovanni]

I must try this too! Very useful thread, thank you guys!

 

[passtheducky]

It worked.

It’s an Aion Tonebender.

 

[chris.knudson]

It worked.

It’s an Aion Tonebender.

Awesome. I think the film-free waterslides are the way to go. I've had so many issues with traditional waterslides, and I think the film-free waterslides are so much easier to use and produce a much better result.

 

[xefned]

That screaming eagle looks badass, dude.
And the bezel effect makes it jump off the enclosure. From a distance, the dots around the knobs look etched into the metal.

I freaked out the first time I used the stuff when I saw wrinkles form as it was setting and drying;

Micro-Sol might contain isopropyl alcohol which could be causing the toner to crinkle initially. (I have a different brand of waterslide decal mounting fluid which does contain alcohol.)