For you folks using vero board, or non-board-mounted pots: wiring questions

[Bucksears]

I built out a DS-1 recently using all off-board wiring. I used 22 AWG from Smallbear. It's generally ok, but I so stiff if you have a lot of wiring going on inside the case.
I had to make some changes to the DS-1 build, so I rewired it up, using all 24 AWG this time; I was running out of 22 AWG, so in my next order from Tayda, I picked up several packs of 24 in different colors.
I'm able to move the board around a little easier if I need to, but something is shorting out or breaking in the wiring now.

Two basic question for folks going off-board wiring like this:
1) Do you generally solder the wires to the board first, THEN to each case-mounted part, or vice-versa?
2) What wire gauge are you using?

Thanks!

 

[SillyOctpuss]

I build with vero a lot. I attach all my wires to the board first and then trim to finsl size when I'm wiring up to the pots, switches and jacks etc.

I use 24awg stranded wire and tbh I've never had an issue with wires breaking on me.

 

[spi]

Are you using solid wire? For veros I've always used stranded (pre-tinned) wire. Less chance of breakage.

 

[Bucksears]

Sorry, yes, it's stranded
Don't know if the Tayda stuff is decent quality or not - haven't used 24 AWG in years

 

[Alan W]

I pretty much use solid wire all the time for pedals. 24 is just fine. On vero boards that I wired with 22 g, I didn’t have to worry about mounting the board!

I’m with @SillyOctpuss on the wiring order—board first, then trim and solder off board.

 

[HamishR]

I build on Vero a lot too. I use Tayda 24g stranded for almost everything as 22g can be stubborn to fit into holes in the Vero once tinned. The only thing I use solid core for is the buss wiring, and I just strip off the PVC for that.

I build the board first, then put all the pots and switches in the enclosure. Then I attach the wires to the board, and as I attach each wire I kinda hold the board in place in the enclosure to see how long the wire needs to be and clip it to length, allowing about a 1/4 inch for connection to pots, or 1/16th if connecting to switches. So once the wires are all connected to the board it's pretty quick to wire it all up. And because there is so little slack in the wiring the board stays put.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

@HamishR I always thought my vero builds were pretty tidy until I came here and saw yours. Always really inspiring to see your work with vero.

 

[HamishR]

We need more blushing emojis...

 

[Bucksears]

@HamishR I always thought my vero builds were pretty tidy until I came here and saw yours. Always really inspiring to see your work with vero.

Same here.
Mine are mainly 'just get it working but fit inside' condiition most of the time.

^^^^HamishR's is tight.

 

[DailyDovetails]

I thought I would share what I do with the majority of my pots as it might be helpful.

I line the wire up on the back of the pots like this then wrap them around. If you have a long run you can strip just the end off.

Here it is with them all wrapped. If you make the 3 legs different lengths they are easier to install.

Soldered.

When I install them I just push them all the way to the board and bend the legs over to hold them in place. Then when I box it I line them all up and install the nut to hold them in place adjust the board to where I want and solder them in place. I use solid 24 guage.