What are the most rugged 1/4" jacks people are using?

gtt

New member
Are there ones that are more rugged than the others? I just bought a few mono ones from Tayda, but they weren't SwitchCraft. What do people like?
 
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My preferred jack is these Neutrik ones from Tayda.


I use those anywhere they’ll fit. They seem more rugged than the few switchcraft jacks I’ve used. I see there’s also a Tayda branded version that’s half that price. I haven’t tried those.

In tight spots, or if you’re just feelin fancy, these lumbergs are real nice.

 
My preferred jack is these Neutrik ones from Tayda.


I use those anywhere they’ll fit. They seem more rugged than the few switchcraft jacks I’ve used. I see there’s also a Tayda branded version that’s half that price. I haven’t tried those.

In tight spots, or if you’re just feelin fancy, these lumbergs are real nice.

I'm also in this camp, the Rean are my favourites. Lumbergs are great too and the de facto standard for small spaces, but I there was some issue with potential inauthenticity of the ones from Tayda - I'd always erred on the side of getting them from LMS (only easy if you're in the US nowadays), don't know if this is still the case.
 
I'm also in this camp, the Rean are my favourites. Lumbergs are great too and the de facto standard for small spaces, but I there was some issue with potential inauthenticity of the ones from Tayda - I'd always erred on the side of getting them from LMS (only easy if you're in the US nowadays), don't know if this is still the case.
LMS?
 
Open-frame jacks are definitely the most rugged, but I would take a slightly different perspective and say that the closed-frame type (Switchcraft 111 or 112) have been more reliable in my experience. With open-frame jacks, the insertion & removal force can cause them to work their way loose over time, which can cause direct failure if one of the jacks is being used as a ground point for the whole circuit. The closed-frame type have a significantly lower insertion force which means they are more forgiving and don't come loose as easily.

Star washers and proper torque will keep the open-frame type in place, so if you have that covered then you're fine. But if I'm recommending a reliable approach to a wide variety of experience levels then I'll point to the closed-frame type (as we do in the build docs for our projects).

This would only apply to pedals of course. I would only ever use the open-frame type on a guitar because the stronger removal force is a huge advantage.

Either way though, it's critical to get a good brand like Switchcraft or Neutrik/Rean. The build quality is night & day vs. some of the Tayda ones I've seen that look identical. The I/O hardware and footswitch are the most important factors in long-term reliability, so it's worth paying a couple extra dollars for the good stuff.
 
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