“Innie” style dc jack with nut on outside

I wonder if there’s something wirb the insulating where having the screw on the outside just needs a bigger plug? I surely can’t be the only person that has thought this seems better an “outtie” that doesn’t require such a large hole. Getting ready to build the circulator soon as the board arrives and that board looks like with the position of that switch using a regular innie would at the least be pretty tight.
 
Nope, I have those and use them mainly, what I’m trying to get away from don’t like the big hole. But like that I can remove the dc jack without having to unsolder it.
It requires 12mm hole, I thought you said the hole in your enclosure was 14mm? Or, are you trying to get away from 14mm? It was late when I posted, and I had imbibed a few tasty beverages... 🍻

I've used these 8mm hole DC jacks when mounting in G10 board, and therefore didn't bother to test the ground. I just tested one and they DO INDEED GROUND on the chassis, so cannot be used for center ground applications.

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I have a seriously nice drill press, so a hole is a hole to me..... I use a vise, and pre-drill a starter hole with 7/64". And I can tilt the head to match the angle on the box....

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Hey, what about just using quick disconnects? These are used on new Fender tube amps for the high voltage, and I've used them for 120v switches (but prefer soldering the 450v connections)

I just remembered thinking about this just before dozing off last night....

 
Hey, what about just using quick disconnects? These are used on new Fender tube amps for the high voltage, and I've used them for 120v switches (but prefer soldering the 450v connections)

I just remembered thinking about this just before dozing off last night....

Yea I may do something like that. And I think I made the hole 13mm it might be 12. Uses the 14mm socket for the nut. Whatever the biggest hole on my step bit. I just like the smaller hole better, I guess. Smaller things inside the enclosure are good. I was just thinking there might be what I was after made and I’ve just missed it but it doesn’t look like it.
 
Am I looking for a unicorn here? I like the smaller diameter dc jacks don’t need to be switched (in fact I prefer not) but I absolutely hate having to desolder the dc jack to remove the pedal from the enclosure. Is there such a thing as a “innie” with an external nut or even if the outside protrudes a slimmer one than. The ones that need the 14mm hole.

I use these

 
Those seem like a waste though. They're expensive for what they are and for our needs we need to cut the wires very short.

As annoying as it is to have the pedal trapped inside the enclosure, it really is a cinch to desolder two wires. A good solder sucker will clean up the lugs on the DC jack in one go. Get the Engineer SS02. If used properly, that thing will probably desolder pots from PCBs too.
 
I had some Engineer NZ-12 snippers. They were lovely until some muggins tried to cut vero with them.. at least I still have my eyes.
 
Those seem like a waste though. They're expensive for what they are and for our needs we need to cut the wires very short.

As annoying as it is to have the pedal trapped inside the enclosure, it really is a cinch to desolder two wires. A good solder sucker will clean up the lugs on the DC jack in one go. Get the Engineer SS02. If used properly, that thing will probably desolder pots from PCBs too.
To be honest don't know that I would buy them again, but I haven't run through the first batch yet to know for sure
 
When I was still taking my boards out a lot to troubleshoot I just used molex connectors for the dc jack. Just disconnect and remove the board and voila. There’s a lot of different varieties on Amazon.

Sorry link won’t work.

 
Am I the only one that doesn't find desoldering a dc jack tedious?
Idk if tedious is the right word, maybe just something id rather not do. If there was a jack that I liked and could remove without having to desolder id prefer. It’s less about the desoldering and more about the rewiring accidentally burning. I ussually cut my wires pretty short and have had to either struggle to get them back in the hole or just rewire it all. Easier is better :)
 
Every time I have to de-solder & re-solder, the room for error grows, grows into a hall, then a gymnasium, then a colosseum ...

Better to just be able to Box it & rock it — if I don't need to fix something it's already all ready to go, if I do need to fix a bug then it can all come out with minimal effort. When I box it and can't rock it, then out it comes out all in one piece, easily, for debugging and once fixed I can stick it back in the box and there's no need to reposition the pots, jacks, switches, DC-jack 'cause everything already lines up with the crooked holes in the enclosure.

I'm not even sure the above para makes sense. Need sleep...
 
This isn't an answer to OP - I know I would love this kind of jack as well, but this is why I use 2.54mm/0.1in pitch screw terminals for at the very least the top 6 pads (GND/+/LED/-/GND) on most pedalpcb boards. I've written about my justifications before, which have more or less all been said in this thread.

Any of my build reports show them in use but here's the first I could pull up: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/lil-green-scream-machine.6533/ Knock on wood but I've yet to have either any commissions or personal builds come back disconnected.

This AliExpress listing is the cheapest I've been able to find decent 6 pin screw terminals (38¢ a pop, free shipping over $18) and I've ordered them numerous times: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800681269043.html. The price is also the best I've seen for 4 pin terminals, which I use for the bottom IN/GND/SW/OUT pads, enclosure room permitting. On some boards the ground pins in the upper row are more like 3.81mm pitch away from the ± pads, but I've never had trouble bending screw terminal pins to fit.
 
I thought those metal ones like that won’t work because it grounds it out
If you make little insulating washers for these, then they don't short out. I used to laser cut them from 1/32 black acrylic, in two outer diameters, with the same inside diameter to fit tight against the threaded stem of the jack, but at this point, I'll probably just filament print more. I'm happy to provide either the diameters or an STL file (for those of you with printers). You can see a close up of one in action also. The enclosure hole matches there outer diameter of the smaller donut (facing to the inside in the close up).

IMG_0912.jpeg IMG_0923.jpeg
 
If you make little insulating washers for these, then they don't short out. I used to laser cut them from 1/32 black acrylic, in two outer diameters, with the same inside diameter to fit tight against the threaded stem of the jack, but at this point, I'll probably just filament print more. I'm happy to provide either the diameters or an STL file (for those of you with printers). You can see a close up of one in action also. The enclosure hole matches there outer diameter of the smaller donut (facing to the inside in the close up).

View attachment 39635View attachment 39636
Won’t the threading short against the enclosure anyway?
 
Won’t the threading short against the enclosure anyway?
Switchcraft makes jacks with longer threads and washers that fit into (I think) 1/2" hole, the washers have a inner circle that is thicker and fits into that hole while the outer part is thinner and wider so the threads don't ground out. I've used these in fender builds to isolate the jacks when there was a grounding loop.
 
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