Aion Aperture (Ampeg Scrambler)

[benny_profane]

Did you mean that the spacing isn't the same for the stomp switch and the board pads? You can fill the hole with JB Weld and re-drill it. Since a toggle won't be under too much mechanical stress, the board connection should be sufficient. As the enclosure is already painted, try this:

• Mask off the hole with tape on the outside of the enclosure.
• Apply the JB Weld on the inside of the enclosure.
• Wait until cured.
• Sand the excess from the inside.
• Carefully mark the center.
• Carefully drill without excessive downward force.

 

[Harry Klippton]

Did you mean that the spacing isn't the same for the stomp switch and the board pads? You can fill the hole with JB Weld and re-drill it. Since a toggle won't be under too much mechanical stress, the board connection should be sufficient. As the enclosure is already painted, try this:

• Mask off the hole with tape on the outside of the enclosure.
• Apply the JB Weld on the inside of the enclosure.
• Wait until cured.
• Sand the excess from the inside.
• Carefully mark the center.
• Carefully drill without excessive downward force.

 

[Big Monk]

Did you mean that the spacing isn't the same for the stomp switch and the board pads? You can fill the hole with JB Weld and re-drill it. Since a toggle won't be under too much mechanical stress, the board connection should be sufficient. As the enclosure is already painted, try this:

• Mask off the hole with tape on the outside of the enclosure.
• Apply the JB Weld on the inside of the enclosure.
• Wait until cured.
• Sand the excess from the inside.
• Carefully mark the center.
• Carefully drill without excessive downward force.

What I did was, like an asshole, drill out the 5.5 mm toggle hole to fit a 12 mm hole for a small bodied DPDT stomp switch. I believe the pin spacing is 2 mm instead of 2.54 mm and the DPDT stomp won't fit in the PCB holes. Now I've got a 12 mm where I should have a 5.5 mm hole.

Your idea is fantastic but I'm re-housing this with proper Ampeg inspired graphics soon anyway so I am not into going through that much work to fit this error.

I'm just going to have the small switch pop through the big hole or jumper the pads for now until it's re-housed.

 

[Big Monk]

View attachment 18084

Me and JB Weld have a checkered history. Ask my old Ford Escape's exhaust!

 

[Harry Klippton]

Me and JB Weld have a checkered history. Ask my old Ford Escape's exhaust!

Oh no

 

[Big Monk]

Oh no

I'm here to tell that the ultra high temp stuff can't withstand ultra high temps!

 

[Big Monk]

So I came up with an interesting solution.

I used a chrome ferrule and black isolation washer from an isolated output jack and screwed it to the enclosure. The switch shaft fits inside the ferrule. Doesn’t look half bad.

 

[fig]

So I came up with an interesting solution.

I used a chrome ferrule and black isolation washer from an isolated output jack and screwed it to the enclosure. The switch shaft fits inside the ferrule. Doesn’t look half bad.

And that fixed the Ford's exhaust?

 

[Big Monk]

And that fixed the Ford's exhaust?

THAT Ford is long gone and my Ecosport is a 2020.

It did fix the gaping hole in my Aperture enclosure though!

 

[Big Monk]

 

[Big Monk]

This one is kicking my ass for a second time.

Q2 is being weird. Tried another transistor but voltages are low. I’ll test in the morning.

 

[JamieJ]

View attachment 18147

Good save!

 

[carlinb17]

Welp, no dice.

I suspect a bad switch at this point because while it bypasses, the signal seems weak.

I don’t have any 3PDT in stock right now so I’ll remove the breakout board and install a DPDT temporarily. First thing I’m going to try is to just hardwire the jacks to the board and see if I get Output. That’s will save me the trouble of getting a new switch and determine if the circuit actually works.

I had a good run!

Not a huge fan of Aion’s stuff. I still have enough components to do this one over should PedalPCB do a Scrambler Board or if I end up doing my own board. Also, I’ve been looking for a real Clinch EP Pre to replace my Ares. We’ll see. Not a fan though.

I've had issues with breakout boards in the past and it was mostly too much solder flowed under the board causing the issue. I've been lucky and by heating up the pins and using a solder sucker I was able to get it working without starting over. That might help? ****ha apparently there was two more pages to this thread...my phone neglected to show them....*****

 

[Big Monk]

I’ll need to bust out the audio probe for this one.

 

[fig]

He's shiny.

 

[Big Monk]

View attachment 18293
If you don't get this one together you can have my fuzzdog board. You clearly need this pedal more than I do and I want you to finish him!

I’m going to audio probe the circuit sometime this week. It’s completely wired up so I’m not in a huge rush.

I’ve never had this much trouble with a circuit before!

 

[Coda]

He's shiny.

That’s why you gotta clean off the flux…

 

[Harry Klippton]

I hadn't been cleaning my flux till I was working on rehousing a build with a white pcb the other day and all the yellow flux looked like rat piss. I cleaned it off and it was so satisfying. I think I'm a convert

 

[fig]

Did I hear a probing was to take place? I'll bring the popcor......oh.....audio probe. Damn clickbait.

 

[Harry Klippton]

Did I hear a probing was to take place? I'll bring the popcor......oh.....audio probe. Damn clickbait.