Big Muff Russian V8

[K Pedals]

So the wires are so brittle I am going to have to rewire the foot switch. Some of the footswitch wiring is going to the center lugs of the volume and sustain pots. Is this for ground? These are 100k pots would they be A or B pots?

Yeah that would be ground I assume… They all used B pots…

 

[ICTRock]

unless you're super attached to having the original wire in there, I would unsolder everything and properly trace the pads. you're correct that the output jack trace shouldn't be cut like that and it appears there was some sort of repair or mod done there

 

[ICTRock]

So here is what I got, finally took some pics.

Trying to figure out where this wire should go on the footswitch?

View attachment 32327


And some wires broke off the footswitch itself.

View attachment 32328

the wire you pointed out on the PCB should be the ground lug wire ... should go to the nut and screw on the chassis. on my resto, it looks like I used it for power supply ground

 

[BryGuy]

Hopefully you got this sorted out. If not maybe this will help. Did this kind of quick so hopefully it makes sense.

 

[Locrian99]

Did they switch over to the 3pdt later in manufacturing. I’ve got a pretty early 6 screw and it just has the dpdt switch.

 

[chongmagic]

Did they switch over to the 3pdt later in manufacturing. I’ve got a pretty early 6 screw and it just has the dpdt switch.

Doing some more research on this, it appears they did switch over to a 3dpt switch in the later versions. It appears that the trace was cut during manufacturing.

I found this document online showing how to convert to true bypass.



I am going to give this a go, it looks a little different from how it was wired OEM but it seems this one has been used quite a bit.

 

[Feral Feline]

Please post a link to the doc.
Cheers in advance

 

[chongmagic]

Doing some more research on this, it appears they did switch over to a 3dpt switch in the later versions. It appears that the trace was cut during manufacturing.

I found this document online showing how to convert to true bypass.

View attachment 32532

I am going to give this a go, it looks a little different from how it was wired OEM but it seems this one has been used quite a bit.

Not sure why the screenshot didn't show up. Here is the link.

https://singlecoil.com/docs/russian_muff.pdf

 

[Locrian99]

They are getting somewhat collectible, I was just going to make one up on vero with true bypass and and a mids switch. Leave mine be. But I do need to replace the battery snap.

 

[Feral Feline]

"Getting"?

If by the rise in prices and rise in number of people collecting them in the last 10 years... Yes!

Would love to have an original Black Russian.

 

[ICTRock]

They are getting somewhat collectible, I was just going to make one up on vero with true bypass and and a mids switch. Leave mine be. But I do need to replace the battery snap.

The black Russian muff is actually one of the longest running revisions of the circuit and ostensibly there's plenty of them around. That doesn't factor in perceived value, which is arbitrary and in my opinion very much inflated

 

[Locrian99]

I didn’t pay much attention to gear value for many years like 03-21. I had my stuff and didn’t look for anything else. Recently I’ve gotten back into it. I’ve had mine since 2000, love it great little pedal I was pretty shocked when I saw it was worth more than 50$. No point in altering it when I can just make one with the two mods I want cheap on some vero board.

 

[K Pedals]

The black Russian muff is actually one of the longest running revisions of the circuit and ostensibly there's plenty of them around. That doesn't factor in perceived value, which is arbitrary and in my opinion very much inflated

They’ve definitely gone up since I last checked…

 

[Feral Feline]

Part of the reason I got into DIY: to make the pedals I cannot/would-not pay for.

When ICTRock said the BR is one of the longest running revisions, I wondered if that meant extended beyond EHX to the clones — a quick spelunk of Kit Rae's site and ...
Whoah! I thought the BR was produced late 70's to maybe mid '80s, but right up to 2000!? Yeah, even before that factoid impacted my brain I thought ALL the old Muffs are way overpriced — but the market dictates ... just like a '59LP which I have a hard time accepting can fetch more than the price of the average house.


Anyway, regardless of price I love to see anything old appreciated and brought back from the brink of death such as Chongmagic's V8.

 

[chongmagic]

So I decided to completely re-wire this thing. I am not sure if I am going to replace the pots or not, I guess I should. But the OEMS still work appear to be in tolerance.

Putting in a Gorva 3pdt and drilled a hole for DC adapter, probably going to keep the battery connection. Hopefully it will all go back together again!

 

[ICTRock]

So I decided to completely re-wire this thing. I am not sure if I am going to replace the pots or not, I guess I should. But the OEMS still work appear to be in tolerance.

Putting in a Gorva 3pdt and drilled a hole for DC adapter, probably going to keep the battery connection. Hopefully it will all go back together again!

this is the better way because you get a more sane wiring of the LED and the ability to ground the circuit input in bypass plus the flexibility of having external 9v power.

also, unless those pots are really shot, it is better to keep them because the oddball shafts means that those Sovtek knobs are equally oddball. of course you can sell those to some grateful Sovtek Mig owner as well ...

 

[chongmagic]

So I have this thing all wired up and working, however the LED is on in bypass mode and off when the effect is working.

Here is how I wired the 3pdt switch.

Should I move the LED wires down to the bottom lug?

 

[Robert]

Why do you have two LED wires going to that lug?

Where do the two wires go?

 

[chongmagic]

One goes the the CLR and the other to the actual LED.

Can I just wire one to the actual LED?

 

[jimilee]

One goes the the CLR and the other to the actual LED.

Can I just wire one to the actual LED?

Yes