Bring out yer Diptrace

[szukalski]

I really enjoyed the VHT Deliverance that I laid out in an earlier post, but I wanted to change the knob/switch layout and add a switchable boost. Plus, I am still playing around with KiCad (DipTrace is nicer for manual routing FWIW but KiCad wins everything else).




Whilst I was at it, I thought I'd try to make a drill template PCB as well using pin headers for the boundaries.

 

[KR Sound]

That’s a cool idea.

 

[fontoponto]

I found the "Round Tracks" plugin for Kicad. Let's get funky

 

[Harry Klippton]

is there an easy way to export a schematic from diptrace to a PDF? I know I can choose print to PDF but it doesn't show the component values when I do that. Maybe I'm missing a setting somewhere.

 

[Smrtokvitek]

You can put "bill of material" (BOM) in the assembly layer as a table or show the values in the assembly layer (part properties and there is a tab next to silk) and then filter it out in the print preview.

 

[Harry Klippton]

I got it. It's in the same menu as in the PCB layout to show/hide refdes or values

 

[Big Monk]

New Big Monk Pi boards:



Starting to redesign around 1/8W resistors and MLCC wherever I can. This helps to keep the same drill plan and PCB footprint for all my builds.

 

[Harry Klippton]

would anybody care to share some workflow tips on creating components and patterns? I've done a couple, but it was a struggle and my file structure is a mess too. I still get a little mixed up on the nomenclature too with libraries, patterns, and components as well.

 

[Big Monk]

would anybody care to share some workflow tips on creating components and patterns? I've done a couple, but it was a struggle and my file structure is a mess too. I still get a little mixed up on the nomenclature too with libraries, patterns, and components as well.

I started with the Rullywow library and over time have pretty much made my own from scratch based on experience making boards and schematics.

I think the biggest things to do is to decide how you want to categorize your parts and to work one component at a time.

For instance, if I were creating my own patterns for resistors:

1.) Pull the data sheet
2.) Create 1/8W pattern
3.) Create 1/8W component, copying the naming convention from the pattern library
4.) Save and repeat for 1/4W and so on.

Another pointer would be to copy/paste reuse patterns when you can.

I had a run of Vishay MKP1839 film caps where caps across voltage levels had the same footprint.

I personally favor granularity with respect to naming. For instance, I have about 20 Vishay MKP series caps across a number of voltages and thier names reflect that:

Vishay MKP1839 (400 vDC/22n)

As far as sorting, I have the following categories based on my needs:

Resistors
Film Caps
Electrolytic Caps
Diodes
Transistors
Opamps
Inductors
I/O and Supply Pins
Potentiometers
Jacks
Switches
Optoelectronics

 

[szukalski]

FWIW this is my method.

I try to take an existing footprint from somewhere if I can, and just clean it up / amend it to what I want. Usually it just means changing up the pad sizes. I don't do brand-specific footprints/components, just a generic resistor one for example. I have a similar structure to BigMonk, but group all the caps into one library because it makes it quicker to use them (for me).

If I do value-specific components, such as for SMD pre-assembly, then a naming convention is really useful. DipTrace lets you order your library, but KiCad auto-sorts based on name, so I for caps/resistors, I use like below:



I use the component indicator code for ordering, ie. a 100pF cap would be marked 101, so that's C1, 100k resistor is 1003, so that's R3. It's a bit annoying but it aligns with product codes so it's a nice way to learn it.

 

[vigilante398]

I've decided I want to start moving my "production" pedals over to microcontroller-based relay switching with optocoupler muting to reduce pops on switching, so I started with the one pedal I didn't think it would fit on, the only thing I make that has a pair of tubes in a 125B. It took about 8x my average time to route, but I made it work.

 

[Smrtokvitek]

I've decided I want to start moving my "production" pedals over to microcontroller-based relay switching with optocoupler muting to reduce pops on switching, so I started with the one pedal I didn't think it would fit on, the only thing I make that has a pair of tubes in a 125B. It took about 8x my average time to route, but I made it work.

View attachment 74062

It is quite funny, I have recently made a universal relay switching module for confined spaces where you can't fit a big momentary switch, such as in your effects. It uses an MCU and a hall sensor to sense the foot actuator. I am testing it now on 3 of your pedals but it can be used on any pedal that uses the standard @PedalPCB footswitch pattern. I plan to write a few words about it soon.

 

[vigilante398]

It is quite funny, I have recently made a universal relay switching module for confined spaces where you can't fit a big momentary switch, such as in your effects. It uses an MCU and a hall sensor to sense the foot actuator. I am testing it now on 3 of your pedals but it can be used on any pedal that uses the standard @PedalPCB footswitch pattern. I plan to write a few words about it soon.

Oh cool, I actually did something similar-ish but with a momentary 3PDT for a direct drop-in for my builds, kind of as a proof of concept. I don't really like the momentary 3PDTs as they still have a rather stiff click to them. Very interested to hear how the hall effect sensor goes.

 

[Smrtokvitek]

It works great so far. I have copied this from Dr. Vahlbruch, he calls it Magtrab. Dead simple, but a bit finicky to set the distance of the sensor and mod the switch (glue the magnet).





I already have a better version. I was rushing too much and left the cap on the bottom side. The newer version fits everything on the top side and is a bit smaller. The good thing about it is that I can connect a momentary switch instead of a hall sensor and it will work the same.

 

[Big Monk]

Here are some of my partial SMD conversions of my Pompeii Fuzz Face and Big Monk Pi Ram’s Head:

 

[szukalski]

Here are some of my partial SMD conversions of my Pompeii Fuzz Face and Big Monk Pi Ram’s Head:

Try not to route through components where you can (ie. R5 in the first pic). There’s usually another route available and nothing good can come from it. It’s a tip I read from someone with commercial experience when I started with SMD. Can’t talk about the truth to it but it made my design rule list.

 

[Big Monk]

Try not to route through components where you can (ie. R5 in the first pic). There’s usually another route available and nothing good can come from it. It’s a tip I read from someone with commercial experience when I started with SMD. Can’t talk about the truth to it but it made my design rule list.

Good to know. I’ll eliminate them where I can.

I always try, SMD or not, to keep certain signals away from each other and I mostly went “through” where I could because the layout looked cleaner, but at the end of the day, traces are really only seen clearly in the design phase so “cleanliness” of traces is kind of stupid now that I type it out.

 

[airbud]

ok i finally found the treasure trove of knowledge i need to finally make a knockoff durham crazy horse pcb for my buddy.

time to start from page 1 lol

 

[PedalBuilder]

ok i finally found the treasure trove of knowledge i need to finally make a knockoff durham crazy horse pcb for my buddy.

time to start from page 1 lol

Not going to lie, this thread was what pushed me into designing my own PCBs. It's a treasure trove of inspiring builds and solid insights into designing audio PCBs.

 

[vigilante398]

ok i finally found the treasure trove of knowledge i need to finally make a knockoff durham crazy horse pcb for my buddy.

time to start from page 1 lol

You'll get there my dude, and we'll all be here for it. Lots of knowledge here and people looking to share it, ask questions when you have them and we all get smarter together