Locrian99
Well-known member
I was just coming here to ask if anyone had any experience with the Weber kits…
Couple questions for the amp builders out there
- Thread starter Locrian99
- Start date
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
I personally didn't like it as much as the other two. I got a JTM45 kit and I was able to make it work, but the layout wasn't great and honestly the board didn't fit in the enclosure very well. The board I got from Weber wasn't a good fit in the enclosure I got from Weber.
This would have been like 7 years ago, maybe they've gotten better since then, but that was my experience.
Locrian99
Well-known member
good feedback thank you
Fizz
Well-known member
I think I will build one of the Mojotone 2204 kits. Now I just gotta figure out which one.
If it was me I'd go this version: https://www.mojotone.com/British-Style-50W-Amplifier-Kit It will be easier to find/build a cab for which doesn't need to be huge.
Definitely the '78-80 version. You might want to experiment with whether you need the bright cap on the volume pot. This is a great circuit and the way the kit is built makes it easy to tweak. If it's too loud you can bias it to run 6V6s which can help bring the volume down. And if you built it into a 1x12 open-back cab you can use .1µF PI caps (as used in the 5F6-A Bassman) to fatten up the sound.
Definitely the '78-80 version. You might want to experiment with whether you need the bright cap on the volume pot. This is a great circuit and the way the kit is built makes it easy to tweak. If it's too loud you can bias it to run 6V6s which can help bring the volume down. And if you built it into a 1x12 open-back cab you can use .1µF PI caps (as used in the 5F6-A Bassman) to fatten up the sound.
Fizz
Well-known member
I was thinking the 800 so I would have a bigger chassis to work in and mod down the road? Decisions, Decisions
I guess it depends on what sort of mods you want to do, but the JCM800 style chassis doesn't have any useful space where you'd need it. It's all at the ends. The space where the amp bits are is much the same. Part of the reason I like building Marshall styles is that they generally have a decent amount of space to work with. Unlike the amps I make the most of, the tweeds.
But don't let me sway you! Get what pulls at your heart!
But don't let me sway you! Get what pulls at your heart!
Fizz
Well-known member
Good to know... I do like the look of the JMP better.. and it seems everywhere I see these being built, people are using the 78 spec on this version so there's probably a lot more info on it.
ICTRock
Well-known member
I strongly suggest a kit for your first attempt. Mojotone has a really well thought out parts tacklebox for their kits. Tube Depot's assembly instructions give you a pretty good step by step on assembly if you just want to see better info.
As far as instructions go, it couldn't hurt to download the instructions from Valvestorm on how to build a 2204 style amp. They're well laid out, have plenty of photos and are clear. Mojo does this too but having two sets of instructions can help if you get stuck on something.
owlexifry
Well-known member
probably because this '1976 version' appears to be quite different to the '1978' and '800' versions. it's basically a super lead with a master volume, there's no cascade of V1A into V1B.
looking at the mojotone schematics - the '1978' and the '800' versions are exactly the same (as I would have assumed).
i keep seeing claims that the earlier JMP 2204/2203 are somehow different to the JCM800 2204/2203, but I'm yet to see a schematic that verifies this (with exception to this '1976' version).
- yes, i acknowledge there are some differences across the years with significant variations in B+ , bright caps etc., but the core circuits are the same.
I had a very beat up '82 2204 and you are correct - it was identical to the late '70s 2204s. Mine was one of the last of the vertical input 2204s. By (I think) '83 they changed to a horizontal input arrangement. That was because now the input sockets were mounted to the PCB. That began a series of "refinements" which led to reduction in number of filter caps, cheaper construction methods and eventually the abandonment of the choke. The circuit was still kinda the same but the quality wasn't. Instead of mustards they now used box caps.
And now we have Marshalls which are mostly made in China to a fairly average standard of construction. Apart from the handwired Marshalls (which I could build myself for a lot less $$) I can't see a current Marshall I would buy. If I was in the market for that style of amp I'm pretty sure I would go Friedman. The quality is a lot higher. Fortunately I can build my own which is a lot more fun.
And now we have Marshalls which are mostly made in China to a fairly average standard of construction. Apart from the handwired Marshalls (which I could build myself for a lot less $$) I can't see a current Marshall I would buy. If I was in the market for that style of amp I'm pretty sure I would go Friedman. The quality is a lot higher. Fortunately I can build my own which is a lot more fun.
Harry Klippton
Well-known member
coltonius
Well-known member
I definitely think you should dive in! I started with a few kits, then moved over to sourcing my own parts.
If it’s a complicated build (like a Deluxe Reverb) I recommend doing the kit simply because all those little parts you don’t think about will eat you alive in shipping costs when you realize what’s missing. From there you can get a sense of what’s needed and branch out!
Custom parts are fun, and RobRob’s website is an invaluable resource. Here’s my pièce de résistance, a Deluxe Reverb build with an ever-changing Normal channel. No, it wasn’t cheaper to build than a used DRRI, but it’s got that old school charm inside!
If it’s a complicated build (like a Deluxe Reverb) I recommend doing the kit simply because all those little parts you don’t think about will eat you alive in shipping costs when you realize what’s missing. From there you can get a sense of what’s needed and branch out!
Custom parts are fun, and RobRob’s website is an invaluable resource. Here’s my pièce de résistance, a Deluxe Reverb build with an ever-changing Normal channel. No, it wasn’t cheaper to build than a used DRRI, but it’s got that old school charm inside!
I've built 3 from scratch, 1 around a TMB18W chassis I got cheap including faceplates, 1 from a Kit (Ceriatone OTS20) And my main amp I got mostly assembled from Ceriatone and Installed my own transformers, an OTS 50.
I use Ceriatone diagrams for my scratch builds as well as the TMB.
Ceriatone is the way to go for fully assembled or kits. Also, they are honest and customer service friendly.
For my Home-made stuff I source almost all of my parts from Tube Depot and I (used to) use Classic Tone Transformers. May they RIP.
Yes, I am a fan of Ceriatone.
EZS
Well-known member
Building amps is like the pedal bug. Problem is post pandemic. Resources dried up, or shut down. Transformers are difficult to source today as Mercury Components closed doors. All the Soviet sources are no longer, too. Heyboer, and Hammond and maybe a couple of others for a good price in comparison to 5-10 years ago. Copper went sky high. Not to mention sourcing tubes. Good thing is they dont have a shelf life and if you have a tester your money ahead. Its easy to make boards too. 2-1/2 to 3in Phenolic, G10 Garolite, or the common Electrical grade Fiberglass, McMaster Carr sell it. You can use eyelets or turrets. Chassis kits are avialable for everything but a quality finished cabinet is going to cost. You can always gut a tube amp and start from there with a working Tranny/choke set. Thats the heart of it. Also use modern doner transformers that run 120vac. 117v Fenders, Ampegs, etc will get an increased B+ voltage on 120v and current tubes dont aggree with it very well. Also raises the heater voltage above 6.9vac. Keep in mind cheap China kits use 110v transformers too. This has been my fun lifelong hobby. Before the internet there was the RCA Tube Handbook. Join amp forums and you will learn quickly. Best luck!
Locrian99
Well-known member
I actually have a not working blues jr st the moment the tube board got fried. I have a replacement coming for the board. I was thinking even if/when I this working of trying to use the chasis, cab, pt/ot and do something else. I took this in as part of a trade thinking I’d either fix and flip or gut it.
EZS
Well-known member
Id gut the board, build your own modified circuit into it and youll have a sweet little sleeper screamer.
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