Custom Design at Home
- Thread starter Travis
- Start date
Robert
Reverse Engineer
UV printing requires a UV printer. They range from a couple thousand dollars to up a couple hundred thousand dollars.
Screen printing is a bit more affordable, but involves more labor.
Alternatively you could print on clear adhesive labels and attach them to the back of the plexiglass or face of the pedal then cover with plexiglass.
Screen printing is a bit more affordable, but involves more labor.
Alternatively you could print on clear adhesive labels and attach them to the back of the plexiglass or face of the pedal then cover with plexiglass.
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
An alternative to a UV printer (that I used to do before I had a UV printer) is a laser engraver. Basically this is how I did it:
- Spray paint the acrylic sheet (that was hopefully already cut to size and drilled)
- Mirror the artwork and engrave the reversed image/labels onto the painted acrylic
- Remove any residual burnt paint (there always seems to be some left)
- if you're doing multiple colors, mask the places you aren't painting and spray paint the back of the faceplate so the colored paint fills in the empty engraved spaces
- repeat until all colors are done
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Screen printing is a pretty fun hobby.
Alternately you could do linocuts with medium-soft linoleum. Similar results, but a lot less expensive and a lot more labor intensive
Alternately you could do linocuts with medium-soft linoleum. Similar results, but a lot less expensive and a lot more labor intensive
I owned the Original Boutique version of the pedal above in 2013 but it was way more involved.
Stainless laser cut Faceplate!
You could switch between Drives or one On & the other would turn Off or Momentary with your foot on the switches.
Those black toggles would light up on the front when activated with a low lit led.
I own the Single version of this & a Hot Chile1.
I had it for about a Week & my mate loved it so much I gave it to him for what I payed which was 1/2 the R.R.P at the time:
What kind of ink works best with linocut in your experience? I've tried linocut before, it's fun, but I've always failed to succesfully print it (granted, I've used hard lino)
I think a printed pedal, along with the printing matrix, would make for the ultimate boutique experience (not that I sell any of the pedals I build)
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Can’t think of brands, but not speedball— not a fan of any of their stuff. I’d suggest oil based, and you want it to be a fairly thick and sticky
Thanks! Hopefully in a few weeks (more likely months, though) I can report some success
Alan W
Well-known member
The best ink is going to be based on what surface you’re printing on, and how opaque you need the ink to be. My wife is a printmaker (she has used linoleum but is not as well versed in it as in many other techniques.) in any case, I’m happy to ask her; let me know.
Travis
Active member
It's could be interesting to use labels
Travis
Active member
something like this to engrave plates or pedals with my designs? I love make pedals !!
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That would be awesome, thanks a lot!
Opacity is secondary, really, it's far from a main concern.
In terms of surface, I could adapt, but either raw aluminum, powder coating (not sure of the polymer, though, I buy them already coated) or spray painted (epoxy resin, I'm guessing)
temol
Well-known member
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forum.pedalpcb.com
Or you can just laser print the faceplates on a colored cardstock - there's a silver, gold, green, orange, blue color available. Then you can cover the print with a plexiglass or transparent sticker.
Here's the example - golden cardstock, laser printed artwork, sealed with acrylic spray paint.
Alan W
Well-known member
Well, I don’t have any solid recommendations—her experience is with inks on porous surfaces; since you want to print directly onto the pedal (or it’s painted surface) that ends up being different. I can guess though, from my experiences painting aluminum, that raw aluminum would be more difficult than painted. (As an aside, to paint raw aluminum, after a good solvent wipe down, I’ve always used an etching primer. I’m not sure if these come in spray cans or not. What we mixed, (Dupont Variprime) is a 2 part system that has a shelf life of 4 days after it was mixed.)
She did say that the two choices in inks are water and oil based, and that the water has gotten much better than it was even 10 years ago. If you live in an area that has art stores, she suggested asking in the store.
This is a bit of a guess, but I think that you will get better adhesion on a non-glossy surface. To my knowledge, powder coating should not be affected by any of the inks that you’d be able to get, at least from a non-industrial supplier.
Wow, that's so much more detailed than I could've asked! Thanks a lot!
As I said earlier, hopefully I can report some success in the near future
A thousand years later, I can report some partial success in my my first attempt!
I followed the tips you guys have provided and printed my first enclosure. The carving is not yet what I consider good and there are some spots where I'm not sure if the ink was not enough or if I didn't put enough pressure. All in all, I'm quite happy with the results and the future perspectives
