Getting Solder out of pcb holes

Likez2Jam

Member
Welp fellas. The noobie made his first real f*** up today. I read somewhere that if you're putting in diodes you should use a socket, because the heat could damage them. Well the particular diodes (1N4001 Rectifier diode) going into my first kliche drive build didn't fit inside the sockets(now I know, test the socket before soldering). So I got them out by heating and solder sucking my mistake out. NOW I can't get the left over solder out of the hole to put the components in.

so 2 questions:
1. How to get the leftover solder out (my solder sucker is not working. Do I need a better one? A specific solder tip?)

2. Can I put fat lead (leed, not lead...well maybe...?) Diodes straight to the board once the first issue is resolved?
 
1) Usually adding a bit more solder to the pad and then sucking it out will help a lot. Also if you don’t have one the SS-02 Engineers solder sucker is the best one I’ve used.

2) Yes, especially in this case as those diodes are part of the power supply. No need to socket those, that’s usually reserved for diodes in the audio path (clippers etc)
 
1) Usually adding a bit more solder to the pad and then sucking it out will help a lot. Also if you don’t have one the SS-02 Engineers solder sucker is the best one I’ve used.

2) Yes, especially in this case as those diodes are part of the power supply. No need to socket those, that’s usually reserved for diodes in the audio path (clippers etc)
Thank you. I will try adding more solder to get the sucker I have to work, and invest in a better one in the future.
Thank you
 
I use a needle--heat the pad, poke the needle until it goes through. Then you can remove heat and pull the needle out (carefully--it'll usually slide right out, but you don't want the pad to come with it).
 
1) Usually adding a bit more solder to the pad and then sucking it out will help a lot. Also if you don’t have one the SS-02 Engineers solder sucker is the best one I’ve used.
I put off buying one of those Engineer suckers till just a few months ago. I felt silly spending $30 on a solder sucker, but it was a solid purchase. I have only had to use it a couple of times so far, but it blows the other one I have (that cheapo blue one with the white tip that comes in a three pack) out of the water. Very much worth it for people working with solder regularly.

I've never had luck with wicks, but then again the only one I have is an ancient roll from Radio Shack. I just feel like I work a lot faster and cleaner with the sucker.
 
I've never had luck with wicks, but then again the only one I have is an ancient roll from Radio Shack. I just feel like I work a lot faster and cleaner with the sucker.
Chem-Wick is the brand I like best and it works excellently. There are lots of generic brands of solder wick out there that won't wick up solder because they SUCK! Lol! Honestly, many types are really worthless for absorbing solder. Chem-Wick works really well though.
 
If all else fails, a 2 lead component doesn't need all the solder out of the hole (although you will need 2 hands, so a third hand or PCB holder will help. Just heat the older up and push one lead in a small bit (few mm for those of you metric inclined). Then do the other lead. You don't want to get the first lead in too far or the second one will be too hard. Do each in turn a bit at a time and it will go home. Then add a bit more solder if you need to make a good joint.
 
After managing to get a bunged component out, but still having a solder-blocked PCB-pad, where the wick and pump have both failed me, I've had success with small drill bits that match the hole-size. I just use my fingers to turn the bit 'cause at that small size the bits are delicate and break easily. It's time consuming, but beats having to bodge a component to the board, or worse, scrap the board.
 
1) Usually adding a bit more solder to the pad and then sucking it out will help a lot. Also if you don’t have one the SS-02 Engineers solder sucker is the best one I’ve used.

2) Yes, especially in this case as those diodes are part of the power supply. No need to socket those, that’s usually reserved for diodes in the audio path (clippers etc)
First time I see the recommendation to socket diodes. I soldered those fragile glass diodes in a Foxx Tone Machine without problems. Ignorance is bliss sometimes
 
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A good solder sucker and wick are both essential tools.. sometimes one will work a little better than the other depending on the the situation.... sometimes I end up using both.
 
I actually DON'T have any solder wick surprisingly. I've been successful with just an el cheapo sucker. Best way for me is what @Diynot mentioned above. The only time I wasn't successful was trying to take out a dpdt switch from a board after installing (needed a type 1 and I put in a type 2 or maybe it was the other way around). I must have tried for at least 15 min but made sure I didn't melt the board. All said and done I lost the function of the middle switch position. It was the Hyped Fuzz.
 
Solder suckers: the engineer model is good, but I prefer this one as it's a little larger and that extra volume helps a bit with stubborn joints.

KOTTO Solder Sucker, Vacuum Desoldering Pump, Removal Hand Tool for Soldering Weldin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FDY2SGS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_19VYTW7T8EK5SAWVN4PW

Cheaper, too. Just make sure you pick up some extra 2mm ID silicone tubing, because the stuff it comes with doesn't last forever.

Oh, and remember to clean it out every now and then. And grease the inside of the tube. Higher plunger velocity equals better suction.

Chem wick is fantastic.

Other tips:

Use an eutectic solder. If you're using non-leaded, have a little bit of the leaded stuff around for those stubborn ones that won't clear. Add a bit, suck it out.
 
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