Quick question I just ordered these do they work similar to the other sockets in terms on orientation to the circuit board? Or I just have to be sure my voltage regulator is in correctly?
This is how the sockets work. Generally, semiconductors (diodes, transistors, and ICs) don’t like excessive direct heat from the iron. The socketing avoids this and means you can change parts as you need. In this case, we work from shortest component to tallest, beginning with resistors and diodes. You’ll want to see some solder on both sides of the board. There’s a moment when the solder flows easily and the right amount of time becomes a matter of experience (generally, two or three seconds works for me).
I tick each installed component off against the BoM, to make double-sure the right components go to the right slots. Easy enough with @PedalPCB’s boards since the component values are provided for you but still worth checking against the document to ensure that common mistakes are avoided from the start. I’m familiar with resistor colour codes, but still check (and label each part) in case of slips or a mispackaged part (very uncommon, but human mistakes do happen).
With diodes, I solder one leg at a time and give them a moment to cool down. Then, I’ll use the DMM to check they are functioning correctly (by checking forward voltages are within the ballpark). With the sockets, it’s worth tack soldering a leg or two first and then carefully pressing down with the iron to check they are level. Don’t spend too much time on this step; the plastic can melt quite easily.
Next, the caps.
Then, the elcaps in height order as you see here.
Next, offboard wiring (9V and ground, red and green), inputs and outputs (I use white and yellow to keep track). At this stage, I usually clean the board with Flux Off or some such. This gets rid of excess flux and any stray strands of wire which may cause shorts. You can also test the IC voltages at this point before installing them, as before DMM set to DC volts (black to ground and red probe to the appropriate pin) and check that the voltages in play are in the ballpark. The data sheet will tell you which pins to shoot for and roughly what voltages apply in each case.
Then, install the ICs after taking precautions against electrostatic discharges (wrist strap, and so on). Some might prefer doing these after the onboard pots, but whatever works for you. Try to avoid the temptation of spraying Flux Off too near the pots, so maybe use a cotton swab to remove flux near the pot legs if you are so inclined.
Next step is to test it out before boxing. I have a little test contraption which connects board in, board out, 9V, and ground on crocodile clips so you can test bypass and engaged functions at will. I kludge mount an LED (IOW, not soldered yet) to verify the board’s getting power and twist the ground and switch leads together temporarily to test this. If all is well, I’ll box it up and solder the jacks, power jack, switches, LED, what have you.
I guess everyone has different approaches to building but these basic principles work for me. YMMV. Good luck with the new build; let us know how you get on.
