Help with Getting the right Components

Skeletor

Member
Hey everyone. I'm new to pedal building and electronics in general. I've been through one kit build previous and decided I wanted to move on to a couple more ambitious projects. So, I ordered a Muzzle and Promethium board to build next.

I've started to try and buy all the components I need according to the lists provided, but I've run into a couple issues related to my lack of experience that I was hoping I could maybe get some help with.

Primarily, in trying to order capacitors I'm having trouble getting the right voltage, size, and/or type. The list doesn't really indicate the right ones. Could anyone provide any guidance? Or, maybe steer me towards a resource that could help.

I dont want to order capacitors that are too big or the wrong type and then screw the build up before I begin!


Also, I saw that the THAT 4301 IC was out of stock, so I thought I'd be smart and orderd THAT 4301s off eBay. Will this work in the muzzle build, and if so, do I need to purchase a socket or other item to attach it to the pcb?

Thank you all so much in advance for your help. I apologize if I ask any stupid questions!
 
Capacitors:
Anything in the pF range is usually ceramic or MLCC
1nF to 1uF is usually a polyester film box
1uF to a few hundred uF, usually aluminium can electrolytics.
If something differs from that rule of thumb, it's usually noted, though not always. Check 1uF caps in particular, because they can be either boxes or cans. (Look at the pic of the PCB - if they're boxes, they'll be a rectangle, if they're cans, they'll be a circle.)

With electrolytic capacitors, I won't use anything under 25V. This is because you need at least double the usual voltage to be on the safe side. So, 9V x 2 = 18V, and the closest common voltage above that is 25V. 100V is the maximum I'll use, because bigger than that is too big, especially when you get larger than 100uF. In general, 35V or 50V is a good medium.

You don't need to worry about voltage for poly box or ceramic capacitors unless it's in the hundreds of volts, most of them are 50-100V, that's what we need. Even the high voltage ones are usually - though not always - small.
 
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Also, I saw that the THAT 4301 IC was out of stock, so I thought I'd be smart and orderd THAT 4301s off eBay. Will this work in the muzzle build, and if so, do I need to purchase a socket or other item to attach it to the pcb?

As long as you got the through-hole version it will be a direct fit. You might want a socket (20-pin) to make removal easy just in case.

The other concern is authenticity of the THAT4301, they're out of production so there are a lot of fakes on the market.

I do have some of the 4301 modules but have been holding them until I get a chance to look into the issues a couple people have had.
 
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As long as you got the through-hole version it will be a direct fit. You might want a socket (20-pin) to make removal easy just in case.

The other concern is authenticity of the THAT4301, they're out of production so there are a lot of fakes on the market.

I do have some of the 4301 modules but have been holding them until I get a chance to look into the issues a couple people have had.
Oh shoot. I am obviously clueless at present, and I anticipate making some stupid mistakes. Maybe on the verge of one now with this IC.

How do I tell if it is authentic?

If I understand everything correctly, I think it is a through-hole version.
 
That's the SMD version, that won't work with the standard Muzzle PCB.

There is an SMD version of the Muzzle PCB (out of stock at the moment though), but I'm not sure if that seller is 100% legit or not. The pics don't look fishy but that's no guarantee... more importantly though, if you're new to building/soldering that might not be a component you want to tackle just yet.
 
That's the SMD version, that won't work with the standard Muzzle PCB.
Ahh. Bummer. I will try to cancel it.

I was trying to understand the alternative options to build this pedal, but I couldn't make heads or tails of the work around.

Was using the 4305 an option? I guess I should have done more research first.
 
I've found that the 1.5uf capacitor (c16 on the Promethium) is a bit hard to source for a beginner. I personally use ebay acquired tantalums there, but an aluminum electrolytic or non-polarized cap will work too. Just make sure they are rated for enough voltage.
 
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I've found that the 1.5uf capacitor (c16 on the Promethium) is a bit hard to source for a beginner. I personally use ebay acquired tantalums there, but an aluminum electrolytic or non-polarized cap will work too. Just make sure they are rated for enough voltage.
I did run in to that issue, but I searched the forums and found a suggested work around, but with you advice, I searched ebay and found a 100v 1.5uf. I think that might be the better option for me.

Thank you!
 
That's the SMD version, that won't work with the standard Muzzle PCB.

There is an SMD version of the Muzzle PCB (out of stock at the moment though), but I'm not sure if that seller is 100% legit or not. The pics don't look fishy but that's no guarantee... more importantly though, if you're new to building/soldering that might not be a component you want to tackle just yet.
Thank you for your help.

I am new, and I dont even know what I dont know!

I'll try to cancel that order, and wait till the retrofit model comes back into stock. I would still need the 20 pin socket for the retrofit module though, is that correct?

On the previous build I did (it was a kit) I did solder a socket to a pcb. I had to research that one!
 
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I am new, and I dont even know what I dont know!
I'm only a few months into the hobby myself, but that's the beauty of it! It has a pretty steep learning curve, and you hit the nail on the head with not even knowing what you don't know. I had the exact same experience, but the awesome thing about all of this is that you learn what you know and don't know the more you do it.
I don't know where you're getting your parts from, but in my experience Tayda, StompboxParts, BYOC and General Guitar Gadgets are all pretty legit when it comes to the components themselves. eBay and Amazon seem to be crapshoots, or at the very least pretty hit or miss, when it comes to getting parts that are actually legit.
 
I did run in to that issue, but I searched the forums and found a suggested work around, but with you advice, I searched ebay and found a 100v 1.5uf. I think that might be the better option for me.

Thank you!
Nice! You'll just want to make certain it will be a good fit for the pcb and pads.
 
Nice! You'll just want to make certain it will be a good fit for the pcb and pads.

Yeah, that was my next concern that I've learned from looking through these forums. Sooo much info to consider.

I still ordered the "work around" parts in the every it doesn't fit. They were insanely cheap. Plus, I figured I could use them in something else if I don't need them.
 
If you want I can populate a wish list on a build you want to do on tayda and share the list with you... That way you can populate it in your cart and compare what you need or would have picked out... Also notice that tayda carries predrilled enclosures for a lot of pedalpcb projects so it can make your builds easier
 
If you want I can populate a wish list on a build you want to do on tayda and share the list with you... That way you can populate it in your cart and compare what you need or would have picked out... Also notice that tayda carries predrilled enclosures for a lot of pedalpcb projects so it can make your builds easier
Wow! Thank you so much. That would be huge!
 
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