SOLVED Kliche: Strange Issue…

Coda

Coda

Well-known member
So I just completed a Kliche build, and is doesnt worn (not surprising). This one is different, though. Firstly, I get bypass…but only if the gain control on the pedal is way up. The volume control controls the volume with the pedal off. When I turn the pedal on, I get almost nothing, unless I crank all controls, and keep the gain at zero. With that, I get a quiet tone. What the hell is going on with this one?
 

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benny_profane said:
Have you traced all connections from the output to ground? If you've ruled out the switch and the jack, there's a short on the board.
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I’m not reading a short at the output now, but the pedal operates the same way. That doesn’t make sense to me. If the short caused the problem, then it would be fixed now. That means it was shorted, but that there is also something else going on. I suspect maybe the B100k pot, since that controls the volume when in bypass, but I am losing interest in this pedal. I’ve never bought into the Klon myth, and only built this as a “blind date” pedal: to see how I got along with it. It sounds good (when the jacks are out of the case), but it’s just an OD…
 
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It seems like you've got a few different things going on here. If you want to abandon the project (or start over), that's totally fine. My concern is that there may be some underlying issues with build technique that are at that root of the problem, and that they may happen again in the future. Some of the solder joints have been cut through the solder. That can result in mechanical weakness. Other joints look to be convex blobs (i.e., cold joint) rather than the cones with concave walls typical of solid solder joints. Moving forward (either with this project or others), I would advise focusing on technique to mitigate the introduction of possible errors. Too much manipulation of solid core wires can introduce cracks that become debugging nightmares. They may work intermittently, but cause issues when moved or adjusted.
 
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All points have been re-flowed since those photos were taken. If this was a pedal I was really excited for, it would be one thing. I’m bummed that I can’t figure it out, and that the issue with this is so unique, but it wasn’t a pedal I was dreaming of or anything. I’ve spent a lot of time on this with no success. Might as well move on to something else.
 
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Coda said:
All points have been re-flowed since those photos were taken. If this was a pedal I was really excited for, it would be one thing. I’m bummed that I can’t figure it out, and that the issue with this is so unique, but it wasn’t a pedal I was dreaming of or anything. I’ve spent a lot of time on this with no success. Might as well move on to something else.
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It sucks when it’s challenging like this. It might be a good one to leave in a drawer for a few weeks or months and come back to with fresh eyes.
 
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I'm wondering if the short may have damaged a component? Have you run an audio probe? You can trace to where the signal stops, Start at the input jack and follow the schematic from the IN point and following through each node that doesn't end at ground. If you hit a wall (some schematics have jumps and consecutive runs though ICs...I haven't looked at this one) someone will know.
 
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when the switch was not wired to the main board did everything test OK with your meter? could be a short on the small board for the footswitch,

if you want to put any more time into seeing if this pedal works, try putting in another footswitch and wire it as shown on the diagram in the build docs (6 wires to 6 pins on the switch, not using the small pcb). if it doesn't work then and you are "done" with it for now, it will be easy enough to remove that footswitch to use on another pedal.
 
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I had a similar issue. The pedal worked on the test bench and even when I installed the PCB in the case. As soon as I tightened the 1/4" jacks to the case, the pedal failed to work and I got a tremendous hum. So, I decided to cut a small piece of electrical tape to each component that made any contact with the case. I poked a hole in the center of the tape and stretched the component through it so that it would insulate the part from the case. Once I did this, my pedal was silent and the signal would pass as it should. My Kliche sounds amazing!

dissentar.jpeg
 
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jojoChambana said:
I had a similar issue. The pedal worked on the test bench and even when I installed the PCB in the case. As soon as I tightened the 1/4" jacks to the case, the pedal failed to work and I got a tremendous hum. So, I decided to cut a small piece of electrical tape to each component that made any contact with the case. I poked a hole in the center of the tape and stretched the component through it so that it would insulate the part from the case. Once I did this, my pedal was silent and the signal would pass as it should. My Kliche sounds amazing!

View attachment 12610
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ADAOCE said:
what a frustrating issue how bout just completely isolate the jacks from the enclosure and ground the enclosure some other way?
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I was playing around with that idea. For now, however, it will have to wait. I was short one TL072 for another build, and found a willing donor…
I’ll return to this after my next Mouser order comes in.
 
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Coda said:
I was playing around with that idea. For now, however, it will have to wait. I was short one TL072 for another build, and found a willing donor…
I’ll return to this after my next Mouser order comes in.
Click to expand...
I get it. I have a BYOC silver Pony and it’s good but I can take it or leave it. There are much better and more useable ODs out there. It is great for a little clean boost
 
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I feel you man! The first pedal I asked for help with on this forum also had an issue I just could not figure out (a reflow in the end, quite embaressing). Putting something away for a while is always a good idea. Put my twin face aside for months before having another look, it did the trick!

I’ve also done the thing where I used electric tape to keep the jacks from directly touching the enclosure. It’s an easy and effective fix. I use this pedal as my main drive and its almost always on.
 
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If you have to insulate any of the hardware from the enclosure something is touching the enclosure somewhere that shouldn't be.

It could be a component lead touching a pot or an LED bezel.
It could be one of the wires to the 3PDT board touching the enclosure or the metal body of the 3PDT.

Something, somewhere is making contact.
 
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Robert said:
If you have to insulate any of the hardware from the enclosure something is touching the enclosure somewhere that shouldn't be.

It could be a component lead touching a pot or an LED bezel.
It could be one of the wires to the 3PDT board touching the enclosure or the metal body of the 3PDT.

Something, somewhere is making contact.
Click to expand...
I suspect that the B100k pot may be grounding against the LED bezel. I can’t test it until I get another TL072, but I’m in no rush. I’ve not given up, just moved on for now. I build the Harmonic Energizer, and having a ton of fun with that. Plus, now with the Maestro available, as well as the Univibe/corn…I imagine I’ll get back to the klon by the end of the summer…

I hadn’t settled on a food name yet anyway. Klon Bon Jovi, Olivia Newton Klon, Klon Ring to Rule Them All, Klon Fogerty…
 
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Coda said:
I suspect that the B100k pot may be grounding against the LED bezel. I can’t test it until I get another TL072, but I’m in no rush. I’ve not given up, just moved on for now. I build the Harmonic Energizer, and having a ton of fun with that. Plus, now with the Maestro available, as well as the Univibe/corn…I imagine I’ll get back to the klon by the end of the summer…

I hadn’t settled on a food name yet anyway. Klon Bon Jovi, Olivia Newton Klon, Klon Ring to Rule Them All, Klon Fogerty…
Click to expand...
Joe Klonamassa 😂
 
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Update: it looks like one of the 9v jack connections was shorting to the back of the tone pot. With that taken care of, I now get normal bypass. However, when the pedal is engaged, I get silence. At one point, I was able to get Klon tone with I held it upside-down and backwards (so that the jacks are pulled through the enclosure), and I had pushed the input jack in. I can not get it to do it again, however. Baby steps, I suppose…

Edit: false alarm. The bypass volume is still controlled by the gain control, and there is no effect when the jacks are through the enclosure. Oh well.
 
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