SOLVED Kliche Troubleshooting.. Where to start?

swelchy

Well-known member
Had a Kliche build I sold off reverb and it's been out in the wild working for almost a year and the guy let me know it stopped worked... got in back and sure enough it's totally dead. When I give it power and poke my multimeter right at the power in + and ground I get no voltage reading.... I continuity checked the 1N4742 and i'm getting a beep there so the diode isn't shot.. if power is stopping right at the top where do I go first?
 
Ok so if I’m understanding correctly you have no power with the wires connected directly to power at the +\- pads on the board. I’d remove the 4742 and the 1044. Check if you have power then at the +. (Only reason I’d remove the 1044 is just to protect it). Sounds to me like he using the wrong polarity ps and fried the diode.
Read previous comments..before telling someone to pull components off board.
Previously stated I have continuity from the + at top of pcb and both ends of the 1N4742 diode.
several other points In getting a beep as well… getting continuity between + and one pin of each of the clipping diodes as well…

Please do not comment unless you look at the schematic and give me advice on what component to measure… Thanks
When testing for Continuity, Power must be disconnected or Testing will be void!
You shouldn't be getting a Beep from + power pad to both ends of 1N4742 regardless of where footswitch is???
My hunch is wrong power supply was plugged in & 1N4742 has been damaged.
Feel free to cuss me out if my suggestion is not what you want to hear also!
 
I checked the Dc jack and got no reading… so I pulled from enclosure… attached it to my auditorium… still no power reading to the pcb… unsoldered the short wires from when I had it in enclosure… soldered in new long wires… hooked it back up to power… nothing…
If the power supply is ok, if there are no current on the DC jack terminals, it surely means that the DC power female jack is damaged somehow.

If it was D3 or the TC1044 IC, the current should be impacted after the broken part, right ?

If there's any doubts, change the DC power jack first, if it's still the same change D3, etc...

According to schematics, the power goes from the DC jack to R25, R27 and D3. it also goes to the 3PDT, to light up the status led. These are the first locations getting power in the circuit. I would also check them, if the new DC power jack didn't solve the issue.

Also I would perform some continuity tests. First on all ground points, see if they are all connected. Secondly, more continuity tests to see if there are no shorts between 9V+ and Ground.

Please do not comment unless you look at the schematic and give me advice on what component to measure… Thanks
Sure, although you might want to post a link for the schematics, to make it a bit easier for all your dear fellows forumites ?

Here it is :

 
Last edited:
Read previous comments..before telling someone to pull components off board.
Previously stated I have continuity from the + at top of pcb and both ends of the 1N4742 diode.
several other points In getting a beep as well… getting continuity between + and one pin of each of the clipping diodes as well…

Please do not comment unless you look at the schematic and give me advice on what component to measure… Thanks
Correct Continuity Test, No Power connected!
You listed that your getting Continuity on +9v pad & + D3 pad & - D3 pad, How is that possible???
Red Circles indicate + Pads.
Green Circles indicate - Pads = GROUND
Continuity Test.jpg
 
Correct Continuity Test, No Power connected!
You listed that your getting Continuity on +9v pad & + D3 pad & - D3 pad, How is that possible???
Red Circles indicate + Pads.
Green Circles indicate - Pads = GROUND
View attachment 55523
got-me-there.gif
 
Fellas.., DC jack was omitted… current state of affairs. I have two new wires soldered in at top of the pcb one for the positive one for the negative… if I apply power to the two wires I get no led or circuit response… if I measure for power at those exact pads with power connected I do not get a voltage reading…
Any continuity test I’ve done are not with power connected… never said that in the post
What is step one from here..
 
Step one would be confirming the power supply is putting out power. Then if so, hooking the power it into the wires, test if power is still there if is not look for the likely ground fault. This is why people are telling you to pull out the socketed ICS. The IC pump is a general problem that could mess up any readings. And with the ICs out you can probe to see if power is then making to the sockets. This is the reason people use sockets. There really is not much going on with this pedal. And the most likely problem is the owner applied wrong power to it and killed an ic or diode. Testing the power path is reasonable and if you are not seeing power right after the wire, either the wire is bonked, or there could be a short/ fault stealing the power to ground.
 
no idea why this post went down a rabbit hole... usually people are fairly helpful here and maybe I came off the wrong way.... I'm going to delete the thread I guess and just give up.
 
no idea why this post went down a rabbit hole... usually people are fairly helpful here and maybe I came off the wrong way.... I'm going to delete the thread I guess and just give up.
Just try removing D3 - 1N4742, it sounds like its been fried???
It happened to my mates genuine Klon & He cut it , the pedal worked & he put 18v later & it fried the Charge pump.

1693353204724.jpeg
 
Read previous comments..before telling someone to pull components off board.
Previously stated I have continuity from the + at top of pcb and both ends of the 1N4742 diode.
several other points In getting a beep as well… getting continuity between + and one pin of each of the clipping diodes as well…

Please do not comment unless you look at the schematic and give me advice on what component to measure… Thanks
👍. So did you go ahead and check if the diode was fried ?
 
Back
Top