Mean green metal machine capacitor question?

_aj666

New member
Hey everyone, this is one of the first I’ve taken on building. Just curious, would I be able to use these 1uF caps? Or do they need to be film? Nothings been soldered yet, just doing a dry run to get the hang of this.

Thanks!
 

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As long as they’re oriented like this.

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I’m sorry, I’m so new to this. I have no idea how to read these schematics yet. But with everything I’ve been learning it’s tied into it all. The way I have the positive and negative can be seen in there. Negative is facing towards the right on both 1u positions. I was planning to get the film caps, but I’d also like to learn the way you’re describing it.
 
I’m in my phone, so bear with me and the bad graphics.

Basically, you just need to flip the right one around and you can use those two caps. Or wait until you get some 1u film caps.


Explanation of the schematic as it compares to the board:
The red and green traces in the board correspond to the same colors on the schematic. If you look under the board, the top left cap should find its way right to the IC and the right one would go right up to the volume pot through that 1K resistor.
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If, for whatever reason, you do need to use what you've got in the OP pic, you just need to turn the upper right electrolytic around as per KR Sound's diagrams.

Some people say you won't hear a difference, some say you will/might/can. I don't know, but the advantage to sticking to the plan and using the Box-Film is you don't have to worry about which way you stick them in like you do with electrolytics.

Just came on to say it looks really good thus far... BUT ...






... There is one more thing ...


_aj666 backwards chip.jpeg


...It's been emotional.





R14 is backwards.
 
R14 is backwards.
I just can't. LOL
@_aj666
Resistors can't be backwards except in relation to the others(perspective).
It would be better to use film caps, but props to getting parts that all fit on the board your fist build.
Generally, it's good practice to keep electrolytics out of the audio path when able. It's done. It works. Go with it if you want.
I'd also recommend socketing your IC(s) your first few builds unless your confident in your soldering capabilities. ICs are a little less tolerant to heat than other components. They can be directly soldered, but there is a bit of skill and patience involved.
If you have a second build in mind, order the parts, add your couple film caps and sockets to it and roll on.
Or PM me your address and I'll mail them to ya... (If in the US)
 
I just can't. LOL
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@_aj666 Just messin' with yah. R14 wasn't backwards... it was the CLR.



Just make sure the notch (or pin1-dot) on the IC/chip matches the notch on the PCB.

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Yeah I made sure to order the correct parts. And as far as the IC goes I have it in a socket. I don’t want to mess those up.
 
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