Organ Donor Internal Level Trimpot

Thommo

New member
G'day Folks,
I have what I assume is a v1(?) Organ Donor PCB(built and working fine) without the internal Level control.
I only noticed the difference while referencing the current build doc for the control names, so I thought I'd have a crack at adding this trimpot to my board, using the schematic for reference.
Testing after installation, the trimpot is definitely not doing anything to the signal, that I can hear.

I ran the 10k resistor from the + side of c16 to pin 2 of IC4, pin1 of the trimpot joined between resistor body and IC pin. Joined pin 2 & 3 of the trimpot and ran that to pin 1 of IC4.
Have I done this correctly?

Pics below.
IMG_20240421_133103.jpg
IMG_20240421_133238.jpg
 
Screenshot 2024-04-21 at 06-51-12 PedalPCB Build Guide - OrganDonor.pdf.png


using the schematic for reference.
You mean these schematics i guess ?

Why C16 ? it looks like it's in the power section. Unless C16 on your version is C14 here above ?

Not sure what are the differences between your version and this one, but i would try replacing R15 by a trimmer, or a pot wired as a variable resistor ?

I'm not sure i understand the blue symbols on your pic, under IC4, and why you would need an internal volume trimmer ?
 
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https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/OrganDonor-PedalPCB.pdf This is the current build doc(Revised 3/1/24) linked on the Organ Donor PCB page. This schematic is the one I’m referencing. The revision addresses the well documented volume drop of the Organ Donor effect.
IMG_0332.png
If you zoom in on IC4.1 you can see the revision, disconnecting pins 1 & 2 of the IC and replacing that connection with the resistor and trimpot. This is what I have added. I did forget to say that I severed the connection between ic4 pins 1 $ 2 then added the other components.
 
Ok, so you used C16 + side to get to Vref.

So if you did exactly as per the schematics, maybe you can try to add a piece of cardboard or plastic under your jumpers and resistor, to prevent them from shorting with a trace on the pcb.

If it still doesn't work i would check for shorts in this aera with a multimeter, and check the extra resistor and trimmer values, just in case.

You "severed the connection" between pin 1 and 2, i guess you used your multimeter to check if there isn't continuity ?
 
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Hi Thommo,

eh là bas ma has got it covered in regards to checking for shorts and values with a multi-meter, but I still have questions & suggestions.
Took me a hot minute to figure out what the blue squiggles were — IC pins "1-" and "2-" 😜

I've looked at both the old and new schematics; what you've done in theory should be working so I'd do like eh là bas ma says and double-check for continuity where there should AND should NOT be. Especially test around IC4's 1,2,3,4 and C11, R11, R8, R4 — hard to tell with reflections off the flux, but there may be a short there.

BTW, you can edit your first post to include the fact that you severed the connection between pins 1&2 of IC4;
which brings me to the question: HOW did you do this disconnect?

It's a multi-tiered PCB, so depending on how you severed the trace you may have inadvertently cut another trace, OR as I suspect not actually made the full cut between pins 1&2 (which would explain why the trimmer does nothing when you turn it). Test for continuity between pins 1&2 with the trimpot fully off (or better, trimpot disconnected).

Suggestions:
- Rewire on top (component-side) of the PCB instead of having wires cross from a trimpot on the underside. It will be easier to see & control short-prevention of the mod. Lots of shorting-potential underneath.
- SIMPLIFY the wiring — you can pull VREF from one side of R8 or R4 which are much closer to IC4 Pin2 than C16:
You could put VREF direct to IC4-pin 2, and ONLY there, because​
You then run a trimpot from IC4's pin 2 to pin 1 (Short the trimmer's lugs 2&3)​

You could still do everything underneath, but just run the VREF to pin 2, then trimmer between pin 2 > pin 1.
or
Half & Half: You could put the trimmer on top (component side), and the 10k from VREF to pin 2 underneath.


After looking at the board some more, here's how I'd do it — everything underneath simplified and pulling VREF from R4 (after ensuring that PCB's trace between IC4 Pins 1 & 2 is severed w/o damaging anything else):

THOMMO.jpeg

Nothing crosses.
You could even do it top side and put the trimmer right on the PCB instead of floating it in mid-air, it'd be more stable, and run jacketed wires instead of bare ones underneath the IC socket:

THOMMO ORGAN DONOR Top.jpeg



BTW — I've drilled holes in PCBs, cut slots in from the side and other hackage to sever traces, AFTER checking to make sure I wasn't damaging other traces.
Even have had to chop corners off a board, one time, to fit it in a smaller enclosure.
Hard to check traces and ground-planes with the PedalPCB boards, 'cause you can't shine light through them.

PCB light shine-through gI50k.png Pic from the Net





Lastly — did you consider adding a separate boost between the Organ Donor's output and the 3PDT?
Could be a simple LP-1, or GPCB's Afterblaster (JFET boost, or wait for PPCB's version), Enchanted, Black Tiger, Amentum...
 
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Thanks, yeah I found that out. There is no continuity between pins 1 & 2. Reattached the resistor/trimpot using r4 as suggested above. The effect works perfectly but still the trimmer does nothing. Dud trimmer?
 
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