Parentheses Octave and other issues.

[JetFixxxer]

With Octave engaged I'm not getting the octave. Also if I go full clockwise with the BLEND the output is lower.

Is D6 suppose illuminate?

 

[zgrav]

I agree you should keep troubleshooting, but I would hold off trying to change those resistors if the bands are the right colors and you are getting no more than 10K resistance on them when you check with your DMM. (not surprising if you get LESS resistance, as explained above)

 

[Robert]

There are even situations where you might read higher resistance in-circuit. (Parallel capacitor with some residual charge)

It's not impossible of course, but the chances of a new resistor being far enough out of spec to cause a problem isn't extremely likely.
And more than one, in the same build? I'd definitely eliminate every other possibility first.

 

[JetFixxxer]

There are even situations where you might read higher resistance in-circuit. (Parallel capacitor with some residual charge)

It's not impossible of course, but the chances of a new resistor being far enough out of spec to cause a problem isn't extremely likely.
And more than one, in the same build? I'd definitely eliminate every other possibility first.

Is it because of legal reasons the schematic wasn't included in the build docs? When do you think it will be added if it's not?

 

[Anotherpedalbuild]

I had the same problem with the on/on/on diode selector. Middle and down were the same in tonality. I was using a different switch to the taiway brand specified in the build docs. I desoldered it, ordered the Taiway and made sure that the soldered joints on the diodes in the Rat clipping section were good. The ground sections are easy to get weak joints on due to the larger area the heat dissipates in (as opposed to a thin pcb track.) I use tiny copper heat sink clips off ebay to attach to the diode legs so that I can get a hot solder joint without burning out the diodes.

Please ignore any of this if you (Jetfixxxer) know this already!

Use a multimeter to double check resistors before soldering them to the pcb. Once soldered in, you can always use an app like electrodroid to check the resistor colour codes. I never trust the seller to send me what I ordered or mark the strip with the correct values.

Not sure about the octave issue. If the polarity is right, you can use a multi meter to check the fv of each diode. Also, to get the octave really good it is important to match the forward voltage of the diodes to get a matched pair.

Measuring resistors on the board is a problem, use the colour codes.

My main point is using the little copper clips (or tiny crocodile clips) whenever soldering in your diodes and transistors. Ge diodes want to blow, and socketing them can be trouble as they can crack easily even if the socket hole is right for the diode legs. I use jewellers round nose pliers when I bend diode legs, bending them roughly like you can with non glass types can damage them.

I apologise if these points sound basic, but I don't know how experienced you are as a builder. I've popped loads of lovely diodes in the past, and it's shameful!

Good luck with the Life pedal, it's superb to play.

 

[zgrav]

Is it because of legal reasons the schematic wasn't included in the build docs? When do you think it will be added if it's not?

It is not unusual for docs to get put up for new pedals without the schematics. Sometimes the parts list will get published before the build documents, then the build documents, and then the schematic will be the last part that goes up. They take more time to finalize, and there is more demand for the parts lists and build docs for the other new boards that are released at the same time. All of the schematics eventually get published.

The new board output on this site is crazy for what is a one-wizard operation. Add in the time spent maintaining inventory, designing new stuff, testing new boards, updating web pages and shipping orders, and it is not surprising that the schematics usually get done later in the new build docs.

 

[JetFixxxer]

I had the same problem with the on/on/on diode selector. Middle and down were the same in tonality. I was using a different switch to the taiway brand specified in the build docs. I desoldered it, ordered the Taiway and made sure that the soldered joints on the diodes in the Rat clipping section were good. The ground sections are easy to get weak joints on due to the larger area the heat dissipates in (as opposed to a thin pcb track.) I use tiny copper heat sink clips off ebay to attach to the diode legs so that I can get a hot solder joint without burning out the diodes.

Please ignore any of this if you (Jetfixxxer) know this already!

Use a multimeter to double check resistors before soldering them to the pcb. Once soldered in, you can always use an app like electrodroid to check the resistor colour codes. I never trust the seller to send me what I ordered or mark the strip with the correct values.

Not sure about the octave issue. If the polarity is right, you can use a multi meter to check the fv of each diode. Also, to get the octave really good it is important to match the forward voltage of the diodes to get a matched pair.

Measuring resistors on the board is a problem, use the colour codes.

My main point is using the little copper clips (or tiny crocodile clips) whenever soldering in your diodes and transistors. Ge diodes want to blow, and socketing them can be trouble as they can crack easily even if the socket hole is right for the diode legs. I use jewellers round nose pliers when I bend diode legs, bending them roughly like you can with non glass types can damage them.

I apologise if these points sound basic, but I don't know how experienced you are as a builder. I've popped loads of lovely diodes in the past, and it's shameful!

Good luck with the Life pedal, it's superb to play.

Thank you for the input. I'm a competent builder. I can't tell you if I removed "X" value and put "Y" value in a circuit what effect that will have.

I ordered the toggle from Small Bear the one that was suggested on the parts list. I test the switch already and it's acting as it should.

If I order a bunch of resistors. I usually spot check them and if a few check good I assume the rest are.

 

[dubelectro]

D6 LED silk is incorrect. If it is attached in the opposite direction, it will light up.

 

[JetFixxxer]

D6 LED silk is incorrect. If it is attached in the opposite direction, it will light up.

Thanks.

It was mentioned in the general question thread. After reading that in the thread I positioned so the anode of the LED (D6) was soldered into the round hole marked "k" .

I put my meter on "K" of D6 and go to enclosure I'm getting ground. Verified this with the other LED's (with switches engaged) all "K"s go to ground.

I checked them with all 4 of my meters and one of those meters is analog. 2 out of the 4 meters are calibrated yearly.

 

[Anotherpedalbuild]

It is not unusual for docs to get put up for new pedals without the schematics. Sometimes the parts list will get published before the build documents, then the build documents, and then the schematic will be the last part that goes up. They take more time to finalize, and there is more demand for the parts lists and build docs for the other new boards that are released at the same time. All of the schematics eventually get published.

The new board output on this site is crazy for what is a one-wizard operation. Add in the time spent maintaining inventory, designing new stuff, testing new boards, updating web pages and shipping orders, and it is not surprising that the schematics usually get done later in the new build docs.

You're right. It is pretty mind blowing when you consider how many new pcbs are offered. I have no idea how pedalpcb HQ manages such a feat. I'm very grateful nevertheless.

 

[JetFixxxer]

 

[JetFixxxer]

?

 

[zgrav]

"??"

 

[JetFixxxer]

K of the LED D6 shouldn't be shorting out if the PCB is incorrectly marked. The "A" Should be.

 

[zgrav]

Is the main issue that you are not getting the octave on this build? Or something besides that?

I am sure you will be able to take a closer look at that part of the circuit after the schematic is posted.

 

[JetFixxxer]

Yes the main reason is the octave as this is the reason I wanted this PCB.

 

[zgrav]

FWIW, maybe there is nothing wrong with your PCB. I think I've seen other posts from folks suggesting the octave effect was more subtle than they thought it would be. I haven't built this pedal and have not heard any samples of how it is supposed to sound with the octave turned on. It looks like the two germanium diodes are the ones closest to the octave pot, and it may turn out that swapping those will give you more of an octave effect.

What GE diodes did you used for D2 and D3? You could check with an audio probe to see what is going through them when you have the octave part of the circuit engaged. If nothing is going through them, then you can try to figure out what they should connect to on the board. And if you are getting sound through them, you can use the audio probe to follow where it goes from the diodes to the blend control.

None of this is a substitute for having the schematic, but at least it gives you some other ideas of things to check in the meantime.

 

[dubelectro]

The terminal marked K is definitely GND. But it is correct to be marked A.
Or you can change the direction of the two 1N4148 on the left side of the switch.

Germanium Diode seems to have a low Vf. 1N60 does not fit. I think 1n270 is good.