Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
The norm is to make it easy to read. If the numbers flow from left to right, it makes it that much easier to find a specific ref des on hard copy.
Stuff you wanted to know but were afraid to ask
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Harry Klippton
Well-known member
Thanks for the sensible answer
fontoponto
Active member
I always scold the gods because one nut on a toggel switch makes it always higher than the pots and I have to bend the pins of the pots to make them longer. Do you attach the switches without any nut between switch and enclosure or do you scold and bend?
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
If you intend to tighten the nut on the outside of the front panel, then you also need a nut on the inside because otherwise you can overstress the joint between the threaded bushing and switch body when you tighten the outside nut. On the other hand, if you don't need the switch to support the board (in most cases, you won't), then you can omit all of the nuts & washers from the switches. There are low-profile switches, but it takes some searching to find them.
I usually do what Robert described above. Bending the legs right at the phenolic plate as shown above is a good way to crack the pot.
I usually do what Robert described above. Bending the legs right at the phenolic plate as shown above is a good way to crack the pot.
I believe overtigtning a switch where the internal nut threaded a touch closer to the switch body caused enough flex to be the root cause of a board failure I had a few months back.
fontoponto
Active member
Ok, I will leave the nuts on the switches on the inside. They crack easy yes but with patience there was only one casualty out of a lot of pots.
Temporarily mounting and soldering is the way to go but sometimes the nut won't sit flush on the switch body because there is a small nose (?) - I don't know the english term - on the thread which prevents the nut from sitting flush. Is this (a) a cheap switch (b) intended to turn the nut with full force on it like a kind of a self-locking nut? I can't remember in which pedal I one in but I will search for it. In this case the pins of the pots were not long enough to go through the pcb.
Temporarily mounting and soldering is the way to go but sometimes the nut won't sit flush on the switch body because there is a small nose (?) - I don't know the english term - on the thread which prevents the nut from sitting flush. Is this (a) a cheap switch (b) intended to turn the nut with full force on it like a kind of a self-locking nut? I can't remember in which pedal I one in but I will search for it. In this case the pins of the pots were not long enough to go through the pcb.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Are you using the washer that came with the switch? It has a tab on it that can cause the switch to tilt. I don't use it.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Sometimes I snip off the tab on the washer, then sand/grind the snipped sharp-edge down smoothish.
Oh, and refdes on schematics I generally work from left to right following the signal path, and top to bottom as I go along the signal path.
As CDB pointed out, it needs to be easy to read — after all, the whole purpose of the schematic is to communicate information clearly and succinctly.
Oh, and refdes on schematics I generally work from left to right following the signal path, and top to bottom as I go along the signal path.
As CDB pointed out, it needs to be easy to read — after all, the whole purpose of the schematic is to communicate information clearly and succinctly.
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