Super-Fuzz again...slightly better

[The Gator]

Just sharing for the heck of it. The Super-Fuzz was my first pedal when I was a teen.
It is also the first pedal I built. So when a close friend said he really wanted one, I used it as reason to build it the way I should have on the first one.

Used better components and my modular method. Along with making the toggle sub mini and moving it up on to the controls plate. It is dpdt on-on-on to get the blended tone. Control plates are printed and sealed. Used Slightly higher Vf diodes to get a bit above unity volume instead of barely making it. Enclosure is the first time I used the tayda sand texture and I like it.

 

[Coda]

Holy shit…

 

[steviejr92]

Oh my......

 

[DGWVI]

Absolutely killed it with the enclosures!

 

[PedalBuilder]

Those enclosures are incredible! And the insides are really nice and tidy, too. Very well done! Is the “foot pad” UV printed or something else? It took me a minute to realize that these were 125B’s, rather than some sort of replicas of the original giant enclosures. What an awesome build!

For future reference, you can increase the output level with no noticeable effect on the tone by changing the resistors around Q6. Here are the values that I used:
R25: 75k
R26: 1.2k
R27: 750k
R28: 24k
That should increase the output level a good amount past unity. I tried the lower Vf diode approach, too, but found that it made the octave less apparent (I know that the diodes don’t create the octave, but increased compression from lower Vf diodes seems to emphasize it more).

 

[The Gator]

Thank you you for the compliments and thank you for the info on the resistor changes! You are absolutely right. When I built the second one (on the right) I experimented with different diodes with higher vf. They definitely made a huge difference in volume output of the pedal, but the octave effect all but goes away. So I decided instead of using .28vf diodes, like the ones in my original super-fuzz, I would try to scrounge up a pair of 1N34As with slightly higher Vf. I went through a pile of 30 or so to get a pair at .31 Vf. This kept the octave effect heavy and gave it just a touch more volume.
Not very repeatable. Not sure I will make any more of these.
Here's the TL,DR:
The Super-fuzz foot pad is just .010" sheet plastic cut on a vinyl cutter. Sized to maintain scale dimensions. It is carefully aligned and glued. 30 minute epoxy is my favorite. Workable and can be cleaned with alcohol. Sets hard and durable. Then tape off the area and shoot it with enamel. It is a pale green. When finally dry, use a light gray wash (modeling technique) to flatten and blend making it an aged gray green color. Then a bit of "dirty look" with weathering pigment. Clear coated with matte. So it gives a similar appearance to the original.
So definitely not feasible as a production pedal. UV printing would be the way to go I imagine.

 

[The Gator]

Delivering the Super-Fuzz to my friend tonight. I might have gone too far...
I remembered the box for the original didn't say super-fuzz, it said FUZZZ.
With three Zs...lol.
I think he is gonna dig it. I got the octave dialed in strong. As well if you turn the "expander" (fuzz) barely on, it has a great basic overdrive-like sound.

 

[Ginsly]

Whoa! Incredible!

@The Gator Could you describe your “modular method”? I’m (very) new and really enjoy screw terminals, sockets, etc. I really like the white wire clips shown here, but can’t figure out what kind people like and if you get them with wires connected already, etc… Thx, excellent work!

 

[The Gator]

Yeah sure. I will start with saying It is not necessary to do what I do. just my way of making it easier to trouble shoot and install.
I use 2.54 JST-XH connectors. simply because I had them and they fit. 2.54mm is the proper pin spacing for use with the typical board. they are readily available at tayda, mouser, digikey, amazon and several RC hobby stores. I am into RC Aircraft. thus the reason I had them hanging around. As well as I use the same modeling techniques I use on planes, on pedals. not the best way, it is just what I am doing.
I buy the connectors with wire already on them, and the sockets plain. the socket I I use a 4 pin on the board where the switch solders to. on the switch I buy the break out boards from pedalpcb and attach a wiring harness I make from the prewired connector and a piece of header pin. this way, no wire is soldered directly to a board. durability is higher that way.
the power connection from the I/O power board to the main board is done in the same way. the I use a two pin 90° socket on the I/O power board. I have switched to 2mm spacing on these as it leaves the perfect amount of room for the "in" and "out" wires that go from the switch breakout board to the I/O board. the connector side is solder again to headers pins and onto the main board.
Here you can see my dirty cutting mat...lol
Here you can see the I/O power-switch harness that is created when I do this. No wires are soldered directly to any board. they all are soldered to header pins. some right angled like the "in and out" wires as well as the power connector on the main board. for my and my method, the one red on the switch board is the "in". you can see on this harness I have both 2.0mm and a 2.54mm socket soldered on the I/O power board. it is only because I use this harness for quick testing. as soon as I am done soldering up a new board, I slap it on that harness and plug it in to test.
I plan on getting a pedalpcb auditorium test platform soon and utilizing it with the same connector method.

Notice that I am using a different power jack than was designed for the I/O power board to use. It is my personal preference to have it threaded to mount to the enclosure. Also I am probably the only one using those jacks and boards...lol. I actually don't really like them. they are just compact and necessary for this I/O power board.

Most people here do not use any of this stuff. I like modular designs and I am always looking to improve my method. no soldering is done in the enclosure. nothing is permanent. everything is easily removable and serviceable. That is how I build RC planes. Most RC builders do. That is also important at my job as well. everything is connector-ized on control board. that I work on.

Again. not necessary. actually some people might tell you they do not like how it looks. I Agree. It is not as nice looking as straight wire connection.

 

[Ginsly]

@The Gator I really, really like this approach. It seems robust yet comes apart like legos if you need to troubleshoot, replace, or upgrade.

I've been experimenting with screw terminals, sockets, female headers, and various pins. This seems like a logical next step, but in asking about it earlier it seems like an expensive crimping tool might be involved...? I might message tomorrow if that's ok. Might need some more pics! Ha... Thanks again for such a detailed response. I have to try this.

 

[cdwillis]

That's awesome! Great job.