Super Heterodyne Receiver.

Did you have as much trouble getting the knobs through the holes as I did? I guess I am spoiled with using the 125B Enclosure Drill Template.

I think it is a little harder since the rotary switches and toggle switches aren't as flexible as pots are.

Still wondering how I will paint and silkscreen this. How did you know what to label the knobs?
 
I use a drill press and I don't have any issues. There was a guide to show what the knobs and rotary switches do.
 
I really like the white caps on the toggle switches. Where did you get those?

I am using a drill press and a multi-bit. I think maybe my printer shrank the template a little. Maybe there should be one dimension given for the template that can be measured. It doesn't actually have to be on the drawing.
 
I really like the white caps on the toggle switches. Where did you get those?

I am using a drill press and a multi-bit. I think maybe my printer shrank the template a little. Maybe there should be one dimension given for the template that can be measured. It doesn't actually have to be on the drawing.

Tayda sells the toggle switch caps.

I like the idea of printing a scale reference onto the drill template, but in the meantime you can lay the unpopulated PCB on top of the printed template to ensure the holes line up. You'll have to use either the pots or the toggle switches as reference, you can't use both because of the vertical offset of 16mm pots.

See how the drill marks on the template align with the center hole of each pot? I'd be comfortable to start drilling at this point.

This is not where the PCB is going to sit vertically in the enclosure due to the 16mm (0.63") vertical offset caused by the potentiometer pins. This is why you can't use the toggle switches, rotary switches, or LED marks in combination with the potentiometers for reference.

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Yes I got the caps from Tayda. They are pretty cheap. You can also measure the template to make sure it is the same dimensions as the 125b box. A scale reference would be great too.
 
I have some of each of the three colors in my shopping cart for my next tayda order.

For the 125B boxes, I use the template from here off the Tools page. It really makes the drilling work quicker.
 
Do you have knobs for the rotary switches yet? I bought eclipse knobs from lovemyswitches and got the knurled version for the switches. The knobs are made for 6mm and the switches are 4.5. They don't really work well. Did you use a knob with a set-screw?
 
Do you have knobs for the rotary switches yet? I bought eclipse knobs from lovemyswitches and got the knurled version for the switches. The knobs are made for 6mm and the switches are 4.5. They don't really work well. Did you use a knob with a set-screw?

Did you get your rotary switches from Adafruit? I see those are listed as 4.5mm shafts.

The ones I have here are 6mm shaft.

I didn't realize how many different variations there were for these... Another guy bought some from an overseas dealer and they spin all the way around with no stops. (which also means the detents aren't in the same positions)
 
I got mine from adafruit because you were out and I was buying the tssop converter from them as well. They were listed as T18 in the description. I thought that was 6mm. That's not what they are.

I wonder what luck I would have cutting these off the board. It looks like yours are back in stock.
 
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That's the ones. (y)

Does this style (size, terminals) work for every pot on every PedalPCB and all I need to do is change the resistance value and curve to match the specs? e.g. on any board where it calls for a "B100K pot" I can order this one?
 
Does this style (size, terminals) work for every pot on every PedalPCB and all I need to do is change the resistance value and curve to match the specs? e.g. on any board where it calls for a "B100K pot" I can order this one?

That is correct, just make sure that you choose the right value and you will be fine. Tayda has 6.35 and 6mm shafts, I usually try to go with the 6mm, but either will work.
 
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