Feral Feline
Well-known member
[EDIT]...
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SWITCH-CRAFT (got any creative uses of switches?)
- Thread starter Feral Feline
- Start date
[EDIT]...
Feral Feline
Well-known member
FOR THOSE TIMES YOUR TOGGLE NEEDS VISUAL-AUGMENTATION BY LEDs
[EDIT]
Explanation of the situation:
To get LED indication for an SPDT on-OFF-on toggle (ALL THREE POSITIONS), I had to resort to a 4PDT on-ON-on toggle.
You say: "Why not just look at the position of the BAT?"
Well on a darkened stage away from your pedalboard, you can just look over at it and SEE THE LIGHT, but not the BAT, man. Woah Man!
The left-most 2 poles operate as per the SPST on-off-on. The middle position is off, nothing connected.
The right 2 poles are for manipulating the RGB-LED, getting a colour for even the "OFF" position of the switch.
To reiterate from its original posting:
Toggle Down = top row connected to common, RED & BLUE (gives you magenta)
Toggle Centre = no connection for SW-1, BLUE ONLY
Toggle Up = bottom row connected to common, GREEN & BLUE (gives you cyan)
NOTE JUMPERS placement.
Make sure you get the right type of 4PDT on-on-on — DPDT equivalent is a TYPE 2. Read the datasheet(s)!
You can mix up the order of colours to taste, and achieve different hues with different CLR value, juggling their values to achieve the desired colour AND brightness.
*** IGNORE R12, that's just there as a reference point from the original circuit this lit-switch was intended for.
R12's NOT PART OF THE SWITCH(ING)!
Use the 4PDT switchery, minus R12, for any situation you want to replace the SPDT on-off-on for same functionality with LED indication.
IF ANYONE HAS A BETTER WAY OF GETTING LED-INDICATION IN THE "OFF" POSITION, PLEASE POST IT IN THIS THREAD!
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mckillacuddy
Member
Whaa? You’re gonna have to explain this one to the mint-flavored paste kid
Feral Feline
Well-known member
It's for someone who wanted LED indication for each position of a SPDT on-off-on switch.
Explained in the following quoted post from that thread:
I'll edit the post #22 above with the switch diagram.
mckillacuddy
Member
Now I get it. I looked at “SW-1” and saw an actual switch rather than solder pads. And hadn’t even thought about magneto or ryan, so double thanks.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
No SWITCH-CRAFT here, just a bog-standard A/B Loops selector with master bypass.
Here’s a spin on that, using a 4th pole to ground the inactive side.No SWITCH-CRAFT here, just a bog-standard A/B Loops selector with master bypass.
Dual Looper
The Dual Loop allows you to alternate between two different effect loops. It provides two switchable loops (send / return) with a single foot switch.
www.taydakits.com
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Feral Feline
Well-known member
For anyone who wants both momentary and latching bypass for an effect, without resorting to an Intelligent Relay-based method...
By special request, I was asked to add an LED to the momentary — though not necessary, it adds a bit of fun.
If you don't need/want an LED for the momentary, delete the above 3PDT-momentary's middle pole, and use a DPDT momentary instead.
[EDIT] Request was for one LED...
By special request, I was asked to add an LED to the momentary — though not necessary, it adds a bit of fun.
If you don't need/want an LED for the momentary, delete the above 3PDT-momentary's middle pole, and use a DPDT momentary instead.
[EDIT] Request was for one LED...
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Feral Feline
Well-known member
Buffered bypass with series parallel switch, with and without master-bypass:
Above based off Brett's post in this thread:
Above based off Brett's post in this thread:
Cool, it's actually pretty simple.
You'd wire your switch as follows:
Pay close attention to the tags, the I/Os for the effects are re-ordered compared to the previous images. Switch pins are labeled in the schematic.
You could optionally add an indication to the switch setting by going with a 3PDT as follows:
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Cybercow
Well-known member
@Feral Feline - man, you are nailing down some nice passive switching configs.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
More switching twitching Aggregavation©™...
From this Expandora thread, some hot pot swaps:
IIRC— ROBERT's method:
DGWVI's straightforward pot-swapper:
MMMMMMm mmmmm mmmmmm HOTPOT!
From this Expandora thread, some hot pot swaps:
IIRC— ROBERT's method:
DGWVI's straightforward pot-swapper:
MMMMMMm mmmmm mmmmmm HOTPOT!
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I'd originally intended this thread to be more about oddball arcane uses of switches from everyone,
but it's turning into a dumping ground for all sorts of my switch diagrams.
Please contribute something if/when possible.
Meanwhile...
... a switch (toggle/stomper/momentary/whatever) to max out your volume (or gain or whatever... add another pot or trimmit for some control):
but it's turning into a dumping ground for all sorts of my switch diagrams.
Please contribute something if/when possible.
Meanwhile...
... a switch (toggle/stomper/momentary/whatever) to max out your volume (or gain or whatever... add another pot or trimmit for some control):
You don't even have to remove the LEVEL pot from your build.
Just add the wires and DPDT as shown to go from the LEVEL-pot setting to FULL-BLAST.
If you need to tame full-blast just a smidge, you can stick a resistor inline between the pot and the switch, either
SW LUG-2 <> LEVEL-3
or
SW LUG-1 <> LEVEL-2.
A DPDT on-off-on switch is often used for a three position filter switch, with two alternative capacitors across the end pairs of terminals.
The problem with this is that the layout of the options on the switch is illogical, with the minimum or maximum value on the middle position of the switch.
So here's an better alternative using a DPDT on-on-on switch that allows three alternative component options (or two components and a wire-link or open circuit) to be laid out on the switch in any order.
This seems very useful to me, but I couldn't find a diagram for it on the web, so had to work it out for myself.
The problem with this is that the layout of the options on the switch is illogical, with the minimum or maximum value on the middle position of the switch.
So here's an better alternative using a DPDT on-on-on switch that allows three alternative component options (or two components and a wire-link or open circuit) to be laid out on the switch in any order.
This seems very useful to me, but I couldn't find a diagram for it on the web, so had to work it out for myself.
mckillacuddy
Member
I love this thread! Of all the pedalometry I’ve managed to learn myself over the years, I still can’t hardly get my head around multi-pole switches. I think I have switchlexia
AceHyzer
Well-known member
I recently was looking at the octaking octave fuzz schematic and I appreciated the smart use of switching to achieve a logical layout
When the switch is up, c2 and c3 are in parallel resulting in 10n3 net capacitance. In the middle position c3 is out of the circuit, resulting in a 4n7 net capacitance, and in the bottom position the caps are short circuited and net capacitance is functionally zero.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I use this ON-ON-ON style all the time... WAYYYY MORE INTUITIVE user interface for toggle's positions:
SMALL
MEDIUM
LARGE
...instead of the often stupid UNintuitive on-off-on:
MEDIUM
SMALL (component wired between lugs 2&5)
LARGE
...Unless of course the on-off-on switch is wired as per @AceHyzer's post #36!
SMALL
MEDIUM
LARGE
AWERSUM!!
@mckillacuddy — I hear you ! My lysdexia often causes to me "switchlexia" — which, way the by, I'm stealing for NAMING one of my loop-switcher-order-swapper pedals.
This is the sort of stuff I'd hoped the thread would inspire-inform-innitiate!
Thanks for contributing, folks!
This is excellent!
In the past I have spent an embarrassing amount of time failing to work out how to do this with a DPDT on-off-on switch, and here's a solution that manages to do it with a SPDT on-off-on.
I felt pretty pleased with myself when I managed to come up with the similar-outcome arrangement a couple of posts further up, using a DPDT on-on-on switch.
All these arrangements are so obvious when they're laid out in front of you, but seem so difficult to envisage if you're trying to work them out from scratch.
Either we're all switchlexic, or conjuring up this stuff is actually quite tricky.
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Cybercow
Well-known member
Great thread @Feral Feline ! Thanks for the great tips.
One of the things that has triggered my OCD are SP three way toggle switches for changing between three different values of a component where the order is off - resulting in a left-to-right or right-to-left order that reads "Mid-Low-High". I took a DPDT (On-On-On) and wired it up with some jumpers to achieve a proper "Low-Mid-High" left-to-right (or bottom-to-top, depending on the toggle's orientation). And in so doing found I could use one less component to achieve three different applicable values.
One of the things that has triggered my OCD are SP three way toggle switches for changing between three different values of a component where the order is off - resulting in a left-to-right or right-to-left order that reads "Mid-Low-High". I took a DPDT (On-On-On) and wired it up with some jumpers to achieve a proper "Low-Mid-High" left-to-right (or bottom-to-top, depending on the toggle's orientation). And in so doing found I could use one less component to achieve three different applicable values.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
LOVE that above configuration @Cybercow!
I think it is the first time I've seen a DP Switch with a jumper across lugs 2&5 that made sense.
I think a BIG PART of why that is, is because ...
ALL TOO OFTEN when working with switches, I get locked into thinking the INPUT has to be into LUG2 & OUTPUT from Lug5.
Kind of like those cool little GBOF boards from GPCB, I always think of GROUND being on the bottom, but you can make GRND be whichever part of the little board you want...
Often the biggest hurdle is letting go of our preconceptions!
That's what made me work on the Jumperound switchery (posted earlier in the thread) incessantly until I came up with a solution that worked — my instinct told me it could work and though I was quite green to DIY at the time, I ignored the inner voice of "well if it can be done, somebody would've already done it". I was surprised Kevin (Aion) didn't offer it on the Cirrus to begin with!
Letting go of preconceptions can lead to solutions, such as the Switch from the beginning of the thread, the OP takes a DPDT on-on-on to make it behave like a DP3T which can accomplish switching solutions offered by PauloB, AceHyzer and Cybercow above. The output doesn't have to be from the switch itself, but from the components attached to the switch:
The end of components 1, 2, & 3 that are not attached to the switch can go to their appropriate destination in the circuit;
Those components could be resistors, caps, relays, a mix of the aforementioned...
Of course, done in a way that makes logical sense for the user-interface too...
I think it is the first time I've seen a DP Switch with a jumper across lugs 2&5 that made sense.
I think a BIG PART of why that is, is because ...
ALL TOO OFTEN when working with switches, I get locked into thinking the INPUT has to be into LUG2 & OUTPUT from Lug5.
Kind of like those cool little GBOF boards from GPCB, I always think of GROUND being on the bottom, but you can make GRND be whichever part of the little board you want...
Often the biggest hurdle is letting go of our preconceptions!
That's what made me work on the Jumperound switchery (posted earlier in the thread) incessantly until I came up with a solution that worked — my instinct told me it could work and though I was quite green to DIY at the time, I ignored the inner voice of "well if it can be done, somebody would've already done it". I was surprised Kevin (Aion) didn't offer it on the Cirrus to begin with!
Letting go of preconceptions can lead to solutions, such as the Switch from the beginning of the thread, the OP takes a DPDT on-on-on to make it behave like a DP3T which can accomplish switching solutions offered by PauloB, AceHyzer and Cybercow above. The output doesn't have to be from the switch itself, but from the components attached to the switch:
The end of components 1, 2, & 3 that are not attached to the switch can go to their appropriate destination in the circuit;
Those components could be resistors, caps, relays, a mix of the aforementioned...
Of course, done in a way that makes logical sense for the user-interface too...
- SMALL MEDIUM LARGE
- SLOW MEDIUM FAST
- BASS MIDS TREBLE
- DGA, AGD, ADG
- CTE, ECT, ETC ...