Tantalums in the Hydra 1uF slots

[Fama]

So I was a dumdum and did a nono and put in polarized tantalums in the 1uF slots on the Hydra.

If I got it right, it's ok as long as the tantalum is blocking 9V from reaching the FV-1 and the output cap stops DC from leaking out of the pedal, is that correct?

If I figure which way they are in mine I could maybe avoid desoldering some of them.

What about C9 which goes to ground, I assume I want to have the negative on the FV-1 side and positive on ground?

Also, stupid beginner question I know, but DC flows from positive to negative in polarized caps, right? So negative to positive is blocked?

 

[Robert]

Negative to positive explodes.

Give me a few minutes and I'll post a pic with the correct polarities marked.

 

[Robert]

For C9 you want the negative end to ground, positive end towards the FV-1.

I've marked the "more positive" potential side of each cap with a red +.

C17 (highlighted) is going to be a problem though, because the polarity across it depends on where the Repeats pot is set.

The FV-1 side will most likely sit at around 1.5V constantly, the opposite end can vary from 0V to 4.5V, depending on the repeat pot so the polarity reverses as the control is turned up.

 

[Fama]

For C9 you want the negative end to ground, positive end towards the FV-1.

I've marked the "more positive" potential side of each cap with a red +.

C17 (highlighted) is going to be a problem though, because the polarity across it depends on where the Repeats pot is set.

The FV-1 side will most likely sit at around 1.5V constantly, the opposite end can vary from 0V to 4.5V, depending on the repeat pot so the polarity reverses as the control is turned up.

View attachment 66777

Thanks a ton! That saved me a bunch of work having to figure out which way around they should be!

As it happens I'm pretty sure only one of them is the right way around so I'll probably have to desolder the rest. But it could have saved me a lot of desoldering. Oh well!