Awesome, thanks so much for the detailed response. It’s my first using AI too so I’ll look for the “centre on axis” button, but so far it hasnt been too bad to work with it.That's what I do and it works great. For example, when planning for 20mm diameter knobs, create 20mm circles. I use the "center on axis" buttons (for both X and Y) and then the move function and input the drill tool measurements - one of the axis (Y maybe?) is flipped on AI so you need to change it from plus to minus or the other way, but otherwise it's pretty straightforward.
I would add some extra margin to be sure, but they give something like +/- 2mm or something like that for their accuracy. In practice it's usually been better than that for me, but for something special like LED's in someone's eye or something you might have to be careful and design it so that the tolerance is acceptable.
Not the greatest example picture, but you can see that the text worked out very well with the knobs (which are placeholder, the I need gold ones instead).
Tayda UV Printing
- Thread starter dmnCrawler
- Start date
Fama
Well-known member
Any idea on current lead times? Just put in a order for 5 for custom drill + powder coat + print (with gloss). My first two 1590BB enclosures too. Hopefully they come out good, the Low Tide was sideways which makes it a bit trickier, but the art came out pretty good. Also got a bunch of Davies 1900H clone knobs so they take up less space and let more of the art show. I thought about going for the gold/silver knobs that are really small, but they need 18T knurled shafts which I don't have too many of, and for some values I would need they are out of stock until November at Tayda.
mkstewartesq
Well-known member
I placed an order Sunday May 21 for two enclosures - drilling, powder coating, and UV printing - and they shipped May 31, to arrive today (June 2). That would have been an even shorter time but there was an issue with one of my files - I immediately re-submitted but that probably added 1-2 days on the turnaround since the re-submitted job just goes back into the queue. So, if all is well, I'd say they're currently at about 8-9 days from order placement to shipping.
M
Fama
Well-known member
For anyone else wondering about the queue, I placed the order on the 1st and currently (after 8 days) they have been drilled and one has been painted, but the rest have not even started being painted yet (previously they seemed to always move to painting "started" after drilling being complete, this time they're still pending). So I think it will take probably until the 12th or so at the very least until they are ready, maybe even longer. But tbh they do post the expected delays on the site, and even if it usually always is faster than that, you can't rely on it always being faster.
I have a pretty basic question, and apologies if this is the wrong place to ask or if it's been answered before (I tried searching but nothing obvious came up).
What happens if I have white in the color layer? I'm assuming it will still be printed but will it be a different shade of white? The design I'm working on (starting with an image) doesn't make it easy to separate the white from the rest of the image to place in the white layer; I also need to have some white on top of a darker color and the easiest for me would be to just put the white on top of the color, but I'm not sure how well that will work with their printer.
What happens if I have white in the color layer? I'm assuming it will still be printed but will it be a different shade of white? The design I'm working on (starting with an image) doesn't make it easy to separate the white from the rest of the image to place in the white layer; I also need to have some white on top of a darker color and the easiest for me would be to just put the white on top of the color, but I'm not sure how well that will work with their printer.
Here is what Tayda has to say about printing white.
I've printed once with white in the artwork and followed those rules.
I also purchased the 2 white layers.
For that 2nd part, they print white under everything.
They need only 3 layers, and they will be printed WHITE, then COLOR, then GLOSS-V or GLOSS-M.
White and Gloss absolutely need to be in Roland Swatches.
You need to find how to cut your white shape out of the underlying color.
I use Inkscape and there is ways of doing that as there is also in Illustrator or Affinity I guess. Google/Youtube is a great place to start to look how to do such things. For final pdf creation, I use Scribus. If you search here, you will find good tutorials.
1- Create layer named "WHITE" , If you have anything on your artwork that needs to be printed in WHITE please put that part of your artwork in to this layer. If you don't have anything in white then you can ignore this layer. PLEASE NOTE THAT PRINTING IN COLORS LIKE TONES OF CREAM, GRAY, OR OTHER TONES OF WHITE will all require you to create white undercoat in white layer otherwise these colors (tones of cream, gray, white etc) will not be printed perfect or they won't be visible well on final product. Everything in WHITE layer must be painted with RDG_WHITE paint using ROLAND SWATCH, NOT normal white paint, it must be RDG_WHITE, when you use this paint whatever you paint will look greyish color instead of white, no worries, printer will still print it white, greyish color is just computer code to tell printer open white ink on those areas.
**Some customers trying to match / compensate / convert RDG_WHITE grayish color with CMYK values, this won't work at all, RDG_WHITE is spot color, not CMYK, trying to convert it to CMYK will not work and waste your time and money, printing result can be very wrong. Please use only RDG_WHITE from Roland Versaworks Swatch.
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flemming
Well-known member
I will also add that I feel like paying extra for double white layers is pretty much a must if you have any white showing in your artwork. Even on a cream enclosure the white doesn't pop the same without it. If you're just using white as a base layer your probably okay, but if you want white to actually appear white, I say double up.
Fama
Well-known member
I've had white in the color layer and it was fine. I suspect that pure white on the color just won't print at all - mine was a cartoon figure with white in it, and it looked white (because of the underlying white layer - you absolutely need that). If it's easy to avoid I might try removing it (for example with a magic wand tool or something similar), but for me it turned out ok.
Thank you all for the excellent feedback. What I'm gathering is that white in the color layer may not print at all. In my particular case I was planning on printing on one of the white painted enclosures so not printing at all would actually be fine, and likely preferred.
Follow up question on the white layer. Do you usually place just the white portions of the artwork in that layer? I'm wondering if there's a downside to basically copy everything from the color layer and paste it in the white layer and fill that all in with the correct color.
Follow up question on the white layer. Do you usually place just the white portions of the artwork in that layer? I'm wondering if there's a downside to basically copy everything from the color layer and paste it in the white layer and fill that all in with the correct color.
flemming
Well-known member
You should absolutely do it this way as it makes the other colors look better.
Fama
Well-known member
Be sure to read the Steggo Studios tutorials. But yes, you want all the white AND all the color parts to be on the white layer, and of course everything on the white layer needs to be with the correct spot color, not just as white, but with RDG_WHITE.
If you don't copy the color parts there, they will look bad. Think of it like this. The color layer has no white in it at all. It's just either black, or if you want red for example, it's the tints to turn white into red. But if you leave the white layer out, it will just be all the... non-white parts of red, if that makes any sense? That's why you need everything white or color to be on the white layer, and everything in color on the color layer too.
The only exception I think is black, that of course doesn't need a white under it.
Thank you very much for that, I think it's starting to make a bit more sense. I read Steggo's tutorials, it's just this bit that's still confusing me and I'm having a hard time imagining the process without actually seeing it happen and trying it out. I hope I'm not wrong but this is my rough understanding now:
- anything white in the color layer is basically not going to be printed at all: does this mean that if there was nothing in the white layer that the color of the physical enclosure would be revealed?
- the white layer can contain a copy of the color, in the correct RDG_WHITE color: if my color artwork takes up the entire face of the pedal then it seems like I should be able to simply put a RDG_WHITE rectangle in the white layer, which would provide a "canvas" for the color layer to be printed on.
Brett
Well-known member
1. Correct, as long as there are no other layers beneath your color layer, the white space in the color layer will not print. To further clarify, only pure white will not print in the color layer. Off-whites will print some color data other than white. If your white in the color layer is a slightly grayish white, expect the possibility that some of the gray color artifacts (those other than white) may be present on the printed enclosure. It’s important to understand this when using white in the color layer. The simpler approach is to use your second idea of a canvas flood on the white layer and off-whites won’t be as big of an issue.
As for the red, you’ll see red printed if it’s on a white enclosure because your enclosure is sort of acting like your white layer. Adding an extra printed white layer under the red will likely make the red more vibrant though.
Hope this helps!
Fingolfen
Well-known member
You can always PM me if you have additional questions...
On a white enclosure, it may not be a problem, but don't forget that your enclosure has rounded edges and corners. When I design, I keep a safe distance around my canvas.
What's a safe distance in your experience?
A question related to the 2x white option on a black enclosure. On one of the pedal design I want to try a black pattern on a black sand enclosure; would the 2x white option make any difference here if I'm just going to be printing black on top of it?
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Don’t do any white on a black-on-black design. The white doesn’t have perfect alignment to the color always, and it can look goofy. I did a black design on black sand, where it was nothing in the white layer, rich black in the color layer, and gloss varnish for the gloss layer, and it came out perfect. Can’t post it yet because I’m not around rn and I don’t have any pics of it (plus it’s a surprise until the build report, but I’m missing some key parts) but trust me, it’s the way to go!