Tayda UV Printing

I also noticed that Designer has no problem importing the layer structure from Illustrator.

I suspect the problem is Designer... I opened an exported PDF from Designer in an online viewer and it reported that no layers were found.

I saw an old thread on the Affinity forums about this, and it seemed like it ended up being resolved.... but it surely doesn't appear to be.
 
I also noticed that Designer has no problem importing the layer structure from Illustrator.

I suspect the problem is Designer... I opened an exported PDF from Designer in an online viewer and it reported that no layers were found.

I saw an old thread on the Affinity forums about this, and it seemed like it ended up being resolved.... but it surely doesn't appear to be.
It’s like they only resolved it within their own product family since that seems to be the only place layers are preserved.
 
I created an SVG you can use to create the surrounds.

This is an absolutely amazing resource, thank you! Dial legends are such a pain in the ass to design

I suspect the problem is Designer... I opened an exported PDF from Designer in an online viewer and it reported that no layers were found.

I did some digging because I cannot sympathize enough with not being able to get the exports to work correctly with Tayda. I believe the issue is the backend converter that Designer uses to create PDFs - all open source svg to pdf libraries I tried to emulate the editing capabilities of an Illustrator PDF did not reproduce layers, even though re-opening the `svg` back to Illustrator displayed layers. PDF spec 6.0 (1.5) has layer support and as I was digging seeing so many people blatantly ignore that was pretty frustrating. SVG does not technically support layers but Illustrator does this by using group tags <g> and giving them IDs, like <g id='white'>. Inkscape and Scribus use similar tags to indicate layers, and I imagine Designer does as well, but these do not render out in pdfs exported from them.

Also just to say it again for more visibility I am more than happy to export out PDFs from Illustrator for anyone.
 
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Their printer reads the white text as something that just shouldn't be printed. So if you add white text anywhere, the printer just won't print anything there.
Not true. White prints as white. If you want it transparent you need to use the pathfinder in illustrator and use the minus front command.
 
Not true. White prints as white. If you want it transparent you need to use the pathfinder in illustrator and use the minus front command.
I didn't have to do that with the file used above which was white text on a color background. I don't have Illustrator, so I wouldn't have been able to do this if I wanted to. I just gave them all of that design on a color layer (no white layer) and it came back printed as hoped.
 
If anyone wants to export Affinity Designer files for Adobe Illustrator, there's a YouTube video that shows you how.


Honestly speaking, its a hassle.
 
Update from Hugo regarding white print on dark enclosures:
“In roland uv printer white ink very light color so it really looks less white on this sand black enclosure. Generally white is not that white in other words. It gets better only if we print white 2 times but it costs expensive and also costs time. So now in few days, we will add new service to our website called "Additional pass for white layer print, 2 times print" and it will be $2 per enclosure, if customer is not satisfied with one time white print they can order this additional service to get it a bit more white.”

Sounds like white on a dark enclosure doesn’t come through very bright so they will offer a double-white pass for an added fee to make it whiter.
 
Update from Hugo regarding white print on dark enclosures:
“In roland uv printer white ink very light color so it really looks less white on this sand black enclosure. Generally white is not that white in other words. It gets better only if we print white 2 times but it costs expensive and also costs time. So now in few days, we will add new service to our website called "Additional pass for white layer print, 2 times print" and it will be $2 per enclosure, if customer is not satisfied with one time white print they can order this additional service to get it a bit more white.”

Sounds like white on a dark enclosure doesn’t come through very bright so they will offer a double-white pass for an added fee to make it whiter.
I find your and @finebyfine ’s Muroidea both look great though. Still, that service might be useful if you want a deep crisp white.
 
Update from Hugo regarding white print on dark enclosures:
“In roland uv printer white ink very light color so it really looks less white on this sand black enclosure. Generally white is not that white in other words. It gets better only if we print white 2 times but it costs expensive and also costs time. So now in few days, we will add new service to our website called "Additional pass for white layer print, 2 times print" and it will be $2 per enclosure, if customer is not satisfied with one time white print they can order this additional service to get it a bit more white.”

Sounds like white on a dark enclosure doesn’t come through very bright so they will offer a double-white pass for an added fee to make it whiter.
See now I wonder what would happen if you have white in the color layer as well. Would that mean you do not have the need for a second pass. And does the RDG_WHITE in color come out gray, would a true white work?

So many questions and it just costs money to try each one. :sneaky:
 
See now I wonder what would happen if you have white in the color layer as well. Would that mean you do not have the need for a second pass. And does the RDG_WHITE in color come out gray, would a true white work?

So many questions and it just costs money to try each one. :sneaky:
I sent Hugo a message back asking about a single layer file with white included and if the printer would always print the white layer first. I let him know that the goal is to gather this info to prevent potential issues/emails to his team in the future so maybe he’ll be engaged in trying to get all our nerdy questions answered.
 
I find your and @finebyfine ’s Muroidea both look great though. Still, that service might be useful if you want a deep crisp white.
I’m really happy with the white level on my first enclosure and think it’s crisp but I still might try the second white pass down the road. About to order another exactly the same to give away to a friend.
 
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So Hugo just emailed me back and basically said the layers only matter if there’s an issue with the file. The printer automatically prints RDG_White first, then all other colors, then RDG_Gloss. He said the color separation needs to be done though (no overlapping colors). So I guess the next thing to determine is how to remove all overlapping colors!

Here’s the message from Hugo:
“Unless customer specifically send a request, always first white print and then color and then finally gloss print is done.
Layering is important only if we have to open your file and check something but if your file is perfect and we don't need to open it
then layering is not that important, machine will look for rdg_white areas in file and print it and immediately after it will print any other color,
and then machine will look rdg_gloss paint and finally apply it.

You can overlap things on white layer, for example, you have red cat and enclosure is black, red cat with disappear without white background,
so you create white copy of that cat first and paint with rdg_white, this kind of overlapping is allowed and it is necessary.

But for example you have red cat and on blue carpet, you need to use software ability to remove blue carpet from the areas where red cat is overlapping. Overlapping different colors is not good practice for uv printing ( except overlapping on white )

If you do these all fine, then layering is not big issue because we don't need to open the file and inspect data.”
 
So Hugo just emailed me back and basically said the layers only matter if there’s an issue with the file. The printer automatically prints RDG_White first, then all other colors, then RDG_Gloss. He said the color separation needs to be done though (no overlapping colors). So I guess the next thing to determine is how to remove all overlapping colors!

Here’s the message from Hugo:
“Unless customer specifically send a request, always first white print and then color and then finally gloss print is done.
Layering is important only if we have to open your file and check something but if your file is perfect and we don't need to open it
then layering is not that important, machine will look for rdg_white areas in file and print it and immediately after it will print any other color,
and then machine will look rdg_gloss paint and finally apply it.

You can overlap things on white layer, for example, you have red cat and enclosure is black, red cat with disappear without white background,
so you create white copy of that cat first and paint with rdg_white, this kind of overlapping is allowed and it is necessary.

But for example you have red cat and on blue carpet, you need to use software ability to remove blue carpet from the areas where red cat is overlapping. Overlapping different colors is not good practice for uv printing ( except overlapping on white )

If you do these all fine, then layering is not big issue because we don't need to open the file and inspect data.”
So, this seems to indicate that affinity exports should be okay if the spot colors are used correctly?

Regardless, there shouldn't be an issue with affinity exports with designs only using white or colors, correct?

Thanks for relaying these messages. The instructions on the site are rather bare-bones considering the amount of formatting they do need. It's very helpful that you're asking these questions and publishing the answers here.
 
So, this seems to indicate that affinity exports should be okay if the spot colors are used correctly?

Regardless, there shouldn't be an issue with affinity exports with designs only using white or colors, correct?
Yes and no. If you are using colors, but there are overlapping colors, you could end up with a messed up print (colors combining in areas of overlap). We have to figure out if it is possible in Affinity to remove overlapping colors. It looks like in Adobe Illustrator this is called "Merge", although I don't have AI so I can't confirm how this is done there. I've had files with overlapping colors without issues (see the X Files print earlier in this thread), but based on Hugo's response I'm guessing the Tayda team opened them in AI and did the Merge on their side to clean it up for print.

If you are using single colors (IE: white base layer and single color print on a black enclosure) we should be in business.
 
Yes and no. If you are using colors, but there are overlapping colors, you could end up with a messed up print (colors combining in areas of overlap). We have to figure out if it is possible in Affinity to remove overlapping colors. It looks like in Adobe Illustrator this is called "Merge", although I don't have AI so I can't confirm how this is done there. I've had files with overlapping colors without issues (see the X Files print earlier in this thread), but based on Hugo's response I'm guessing the Tayda team opened them in AI and did the Merge on their side to clean it up for print.

If you are using single colors (IE: white base layer and single color print on a black enclosure) we should be in business.
Depending on how complicated the color overlaps are, you should be able to eliminate overlap of curves with boolean operators.
 
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