What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
I pulled the engine out of my tractor so I can get it in the garage and tear it down
fig
Village Idiot
@Harry Klippton
Nice! Did you use a hoist, or sheer Will? What size belly mower is that?
Nice! Did you use a hoist, or sheer Will? What size belly mower is that?
benny_profane
Well-known member
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
From reading the post I think he just reached in there and pulled it outNBD
It's a Kohler K301. No hoist, just me. Manual says it's 118lb
Can't remember if the mower is 42" or 48" actually
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
Feral Feline
Well-known member
@Harry Klippton What's the speaker box under the chop-saw?
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
It's an Ampeg V4 cabinet I bought unloaded for $25 at a swap meet many years ago. I was hoping to restore it but it was very badly water damaged. Eventually I'll strip it of its hardware for another project and take measurements in case I want to make a replica of it
Feral Feline
Well-known member
No photo, but I've finally worked the Windsor's paint to 2000-grit;
Starting the 3000-grit tomorrow.
Actually, that's just the top of the car, the sides haven't been touched yet. Probably another couple weeks of wet-sanding.
Starting the 3000-grit tomorrow.
Actually, that's just the top of the car, the sides haven't been touched yet. Probably another couple weeks of wet-sanding.
Fama
Well-known member
I built up Effects Layouts King of the Morning - no pictures since I need another M12 yellow nut from Tayda before it doesn't look hideous (need the bigger nuts to hide the enlarged footswitch holes).
It's all kinds of messed up, far from my best work, but at least it works and sounds nice. I might post a build report later to show off everything that went wrong.
Also fixed up my Fuzz Bender which had a bad solder joint, took some tracking down but now it should be fine. Also switched the germanium transistor according to @danfrank's instructions. Now it can get pretty spitty and a little gated, before the bias knob wasn't doing that much. On the downside, I lost two of the Tayda 1900H clone knobs since they only have plastic grooves for the screw on them, I've taken them out a few times now so the grooves just got messed up. Not sure if I was using too much force or if you should just not remove them too many times. At least they are cheap to replace, but I might look into better ones too. Tayda has ones with a brass insert, but I think only black (and maybe white). Musikding has them for around twice the price (well, not in stock for all colors) and they look like the same plastic ones.
It's all kinds of messed up, far from my best work, but at least it works and sounds nice. I might post a build report later to show off everything that went wrong.
Also fixed up my Fuzz Bender which had a bad solder joint, took some tracking down but now it should be fine. Also switched the germanium transistor according to @danfrank's instructions. Now it can get pretty spitty and a little gated, before the bias knob wasn't doing that much. On the downside, I lost two of the Tayda 1900H clone knobs since they only have plastic grooves for the screw on them, I've taken them out a few times now so the grooves just got messed up. Not sure if I was using too much force or if you should just not remove them too many times. At least they are cheap to replace, but I might look into better ones too. Tayda has ones with a brass insert, but I think only black (and maybe white). Musikding has them for around twice the price (well, not in stock for all colors) and they look like the same plastic ones.
Erik S
Well-known member
One of the great things about drilling with a step-bit is that once you get to your desired hole size, you can lightly touch down with the next larger step for a nice deburr/ chamfer on the edge of the hole.
This works out great on the face of the enclosure which is parallel to the back, but once you stand it up on-end there’s a casting angle to deal with. Drilling the holes on-angle isn’t really a problem, but the chamfers don’t work out as nice. I also drill the ends for nameplate rivets with a very small bit, and I don’t like doing that at an angle.
I’ve had a couple different setups for holding enclosures in the vise tipped back at about 2 degrees, but they all allowed some vibration, which makes for noisy drilling of the larger holes.
This is the newest version- I cut the face of this big chunk of plastic at 2 degrees, and set up a piece of wood to make contact at the bottom edge of the enclosure face.
I haven’t tried it yet, but it feels pretty solid.
This works out great on the face of the enclosure which is parallel to the back, but once you stand it up on-end there’s a casting angle to deal with. Drilling the holes on-angle isn’t really a problem, but the chamfers don’t work out as nice. I also drill the ends for nameplate rivets with a very small bit, and I don’t like doing that at an angle.
I’ve had a couple different setups for holding enclosures in the vise tipped back at about 2 degrees, but they all allowed some vibration, which makes for noisy drilling of the larger holes.
This is the newest version- I cut the face of this big chunk of plastic at 2 degrees, and set up a piece of wood to make contact at the bottom edge of the enclosure face.
I haven’t tried it yet, but it feels pretty solid.
KR Sound
Well-known member
That’s a great idea. I’ve always thought about doing something like that for my press, but so far haven’t had any issues with that cant. I would like to build some kind of jig.
DGWVI
Well-known member
Erik S
Well-known member
How do those stamps work? Are you just stamping each letter freehand one at a time? Is there some kind of alignment jig happening? The alignment and spacing is very good however you’re doing it.