What Rotary Switches Do You Like?

G

Ginsly

Well-known member
I'd love a recommendation for A) a decent pcb-mounted rotary switch and B) a decent solder-lug version from Tayda et al? Seems like 1P8T and 1P12T are the two major ones to look at..? I realize each project calls for a specific kind of switch and this may be annoyingly general, but I'm looking to get a few of the most-used ones for off-board and pcb use. I need to order from Tayda, so I'd love some links!

I haven't delved into that world yet, and I can already see that the shafts are typically knurled (and oddly short?) or D-shaped plastic (eew), making it possibly difficult to have a matching set of knobs on a pedal that presumably would have mostly 6.35 smooth shafts.

It'll mostly be for switching between different capacitors, etc - nothing too crazy.
 
The 16mm rotary switches (1P8T for example) are great when space is limited but the larger Alpha 1P12T rotary switches are far more reliable/durable and can be limited to any number of positions with the stop washer.
 
Robert said:
The 16mm rotary switches (1P8T for example) are great when space is limited but the larger Alpha 1P12T rotary switches are far more reliable/durable and can be limited to any number of positions with the stop washer.
Click to expand...
This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for! Thx Robert! Ping me when ya can, I have a package for ya. :)
 
Ginsly said:
I can already see that the shafts are typically knurled (and oddly short?) or D-shaped plastic (eew), making it possibly difficult to have a matching set of knobs on a pedal that presumably would have mostly 6.35 smooth shafts.
Click to expand...
Lovemyswitches sells adapters that can make round shaft knobs work better with d and t18. My go to knobs are available in t18 and I keep a few on hand but I have used the adapters in a pinch and can vouch for them, but for a personal build a round shaft knob will typically (IME) stay put without one.
 
@finebyfine I love those! I actually got a couple close-enough brass tubes from Bozos and cut em to size with a jeweler’s saw! Wayyyyy cheaper.

@Robert you just saved me from buying the wrong switch. That stopper is crucial!
 
Ginsly said:
I actually got a couple close-enough brass tubes from Bozos and cut em to size with a jeweler’s saw! Wayyyyy cheaper.
Click to expand...
lmao I was about to say you could probably make a pencil's eraser ferrule work in a pinch too, I'm gonna steal your method
 
finebyfine said:
lmao I was about to say you could probably make a pencil's eraser ferrule work in a pinch too, I'm gonna steal your method
Click to expand...
I DID have to sand the outside a bit to get them to fit all 6.35 knobs I had, but now they work great! Interior fits 6mm smooth and knurled like a glove. I’ll see if I can find the link…
 
Bricksnbeatles said:
If you have a lathe (or just a drill now that I think about it), get some 6mm I.D. Tube and just sand it at a relatively high speed until it’s the right outer diameter
Click to expand...

I found some uninsulated copper crimp ferrules that are just 6mm tube at 12mm lengths, I think the OD might be able to squeak through and I’d just have to cut them in half. Only thing stopping me from buying them is wondering if I could ever possibly use 200 of them in my lifetime
 
finebyfine said:
Lovemyswitches sells adapters that can make round shaft knobs work better with d and t18. My go to knobs are available in t18 and I keep a few on hand but I have used the adapters in a pinch and can vouch for them, but for a personal build a round shaft knob will typically (IME) stay put without one.
Click to expand...

I've done that with 90% of my rotary switches. Just tighten the set screw and it has always worked just fine for me. Used on the Arachnid board, which I turn the switch often, never had it skip/jump.
 
DeadAirMD said:
I've done that with 90% of my rotary switches. Just tighten the set screw and it has always worked just fine for me. Used on the Arachnid board, which I turn the switch often, never had it skip/jump.
Click to expand...
Makes sense- it would be way less obvious on a rotary switch if the knob was a little off-center.
 
Robert said:
This type includes the limit washer:
www.taydaelectronics.com

Rotary Switch 1 Pole 12 Position ALPHA SR2611F

ALPHA - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com

This type does not:
Click to expand...
I can't find any info on the limit washer in the spec sheet. Can these be limited to any number of throws between 2 and 12 or is it only 3, 6, 9 and 12 for example?
Edit: Never mind, just had to zoom in. Looks like any number between 2 and 12 is possible.
 
Last edited:
I'll add that if one wants to go a little bit nuts...

Well, I'm a huge fan of the Grayhill 51s30 series. Though they're so expensive (close to 30 bucks a pop) that they're really only economically viable in extremely limited circumstances.

They're about 1/3rd the size of the alpha switches, rock solid, and come in a wide array of poles, throws, and both PCB and Lug connections.

But like I said: spendy as fuck. Only useful when it's difficult to find the correct pole/throw combo in another switch, or when wiring must be done offboard but space is extremely limited.

I'm going to be using one in a "Mr Multi" wah/phaser build from DEFX I have coming up. Those full sized alpha switches are great for most other builds and I love how the set washer lets one use a single model for multiple throw configurations.
 
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