What's in the mailbox? 📬 📦

Does OSH send those as a panel, or did you pay per piece?
Per piece (in threes), my understanding is that panelizing would cost me slightly more st OSH. In any case, seven bucks for everything in the picture, shipping included. I was just looking at how JLC handles panelization though, pretty sure in their case it would net a good savings.

I do little pot breakouts with SMD caps and/or resistors on them for fine tuning circuits quite a bit, it's sometimes much easier to do mods on my particular builds that way.
 
Per piece (in threes), my understanding is that panelizing would cost me slightly more st OSH. In any case, seven bucks for everything in the picture, shipping included. I was just looking at how JLC handles panelization though, pretty sure in their case it would net a good savings.

I do little pot breakouts with SMD caps and/or resistors on them for fine tuning circuits quite a bit, it's sometimes much easier to do mods on my particular builds that way.
My understanding of JLPCB's pricing is that if your panelized order is within 100x100mm it's the same $2 for 5 pieces but I havent actually confirmed that with an order
 
My understanding of JLPCB's pricing is that if your panelized order is within 100x100mm it's the same $2 for 5 pieces but I havent actually confirmed that with an order
I just ran a quote from them, it turned out there was $20+ in added fees. So no free lunch, unfortunately!

However, on further review that still comes out to 200 boards for under 30 bucks shipped. ;)
 
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I just ran a quote from them, it turned out there was $20+ in added fees. So no free lunch, unfortunately!

However, on further review that still comes out to 200 boards for under 30 bucks shipped. ;)
I get some things panelized, but others depending on size it's cheaper to just get individual boards because of their added "engineering fee", especially if you're getting SMD assembly. Assembly on a panelized board automatically bumps it from "economy assembly" to "standard assembly" which is like an extra $30 per design.
 
I get some things panelized, but others depending on size it's cheaper to just get individual boards because of their added "engineering fee", especially if you're getting SMD assembly. Assembly on a panelized board automatically bumps it from "economy assembly" to "standard assembly" which is like an extra $30 per design.
Yep, I just ran some more quotes through the system for my 1" by 1.5" onboard preamps and things looked much more favorable than for the tiny pot and switch breakout ones. Still haven't had any assembly done over there, but the math looked quite attractive for that as well.

In any case, a few of these are showing as waiting for pickup by the shipping company at the factory today:

JLC_v2_8.PNG

And my Tayda test boxes for that project are drilled and painted, and in-process on UV printing. May is shaping up to be a very busy month!
 
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Thank you. I love this. Please follow up when you install one


Getting back to some assembly today, and I just installed my first tubing lens retainer. The first one I installed was about .120” length of tube to match the tayda specs, but it didn’t feel super secure. I measured the thickness of the enclosure at about .100”, and the width of the lens at .260”, so I cut another piece .160” long to completely take up the slack and it feels pretty good.

Getting a nice 90 degree cut on the tube is tricky. I cut and faced a little piece of 3/8 ID steel tube to use as a measuring and cutting guide. Once I got the right length sticking out I just ran a razor blade along the edge and got a nice cut.
 

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Getting back to some assembly today, and I just installed my first tubing lens retainer. The first one I installed was about .120” length of tube to match the tayda specs, but it didn’t feel super secure. I measured the thickness of the enclosure at about .100”, and the width of the lens at .260”, so I cut another piece .160” long to completely take up the slack and it feels pretty good.

Getting a nice 90 degree cut on the tube is tricky. I cut and faced a little piece of 3/8 ID steel tube to use as a measuring and cutting guide. Once I got the right length sticking out I just ran a razor blade along the edge and got a nice cut.
Thanks. I have some tubing leftover from a chainsaw oiler but I don't remember what size it is. If I'm lucky, that'll work, and if not I'll have to pick up some more tubing
 
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004826549240.html <--- LINKAGE

SMD E-cap kit from AliExpress. Took 10 days to get from China to my front door in Melbourne Australia.

I've tested at least 20 of them and they're all in spec, most are within 5% of stated values.

There are only 3 "useless" varieties (last pic) and even those could be used in certain spots, I recently discovered. But I'll probably just practice removing the plastic bases on those ones. I've done it on a few already, it's not that hard if you're careful. Though I expect the legs could be broken off very easily so careful is the important word here.

My recent order of PCBs are probably still weeks away so I can't use any of these just yet.

EDIT: That's a 5mm LED for scale in the pics.

EDIT 2: This is the thread where these are discussed - thanks to @Cybercow for working this out.
 

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So I was chatting about tube amps with my buddy today and I had to go for a business call. He called me back after a couple hours to ask if I wanted these beauts. He was cleaning his office and thought I would like 'em. uhhh....yes please!!! OMFG I can't wait! He's always hooking me up with amazing things but I'm gonna have to figure out something really nice to say thank you for these.
70414682472__6D49BAD6-D023-4293-B3FF-2481A8CC27FE.jpeg 70414679626__A80F3CE4-A25D-498A-94C2-81E46CA6D9B5.jpeg 70414681147__B4EB5548-12F8-4BD2-A90A-B69B82716A33.jpeg 70414684415__E1CD6369-252F-44CE-BB6B-BBB9B2494EE6.jpeg 70414685509__45EAE175-C5D4-4A8F-9815-0867F78A6117.jpeg
 
So I was chatting about tube amps with my buddy today and I had to go for a business call. He called me back after a couple hours to ask if I wanted these beauts. He was cleaning his office and thought I would like 'em. uhhh....yes please!!! OMFG I can't wait! He's always hooking me up with amazing things but I'm gonna have to figure out something really nice to say thank you for these.
View attachment 47034View attachment 47032View attachment 47033View attachment 47035View attachment 47036
That is a very very good friend!
 
This past Sunday, coming back from a car-show, my friends and I popped into an antique-junk store and I almost bought an old metal speaker box, likely a school PA thing — looked a lot like the grey cabinet in PunchySunshine's post above.

Alas some idiot thought they'd get more money if they brushed it with red. Would've made a cool little box for a Champ build, but I didn't feel like stripping off the red. See the box above I regret not buying it.

Why do Sanfred & Sons- wannabees always think they're "improving" something when it's better left untouched?


What I did buy:

00D92314-7202-4B0D-9051-AFC3BF1B041B.jpeg
Nye Viking Standard Key "Speed X"


Now I'm not the first to think of using one of these in a pedal, and indeed somebody has even gone to market with the concept, but I did think of a telegraph-key-in-a-pedal long before I ever heard of or saw someone else doing it.

This has been a long-time coming. I got 25% off, for CAD56.25. I had no idea if it was a good price or not, as my phone had run out of juice and I couldn't check online. So I gambled — most I've seen of them go from US$25 to US$100, got mine for about US$40 including box and instructions inside. The blue tag on the front is "Smalley's" as in Smalley's Electronics and no longer in business [nee Smalley's Radio Service], but it originally cost "$12.96ea" ! Other numbers/letters on the blue price-tag include "859" upper left, "YYS" upper right, and a "5" and a "7" just before the price itself.

I'm guessing this one's from the early '70s, based on info here: ...base has been made since the '30s with the same molds. I don't know, maybe it got put on sale Aug '59, maybe that "859" was "B59". Based on posts from the link above, it could be an '80s unit, based on the price, the black krinkle base means it could be from '57. BTW, They're still being made!

AHA! https://www.morseexpress.com/nye/ Made by Nye Viking since 1975, before that was other companies with rights to the key: "First made by Les Logan, then by E.F. Johnson, and now by Wm M. Nye Company". Production of my 310-003 model has been suspended, as of 8/01/17.
More info: https://ai4fr.com/main/page_ham_radio_cw_speedx.html

I got into CBs back when they were the rage because I couldn't afford a ham radio (couldn't afford the CB, it was a gift from the parental units).
Now I hear you don't even need to know morse-code to get your ham-radio license! 🧐


Okay okay... I'll stop spamming the thread, or should I say HAMming the thread. I've got more pics of the base, and the box etc, if anybody has interest, just PM me. This quick dive may result in a search for vintage tube-based ham-radios, the Speed X key is too nice to be stomped on...
 
Growing up, most vacations occurred on the Oregon coast not far from the devil's punchbowl so I was in for this powder drop before I even saw the pics. It's always hard to photograph these because they're so "alive" in the sunlight. It's almost too pretty. I'll probably put a curds and whey in this with no graphics or labels. No need to gild the lily or whatever. Bought a BB also.

Screenshot_20230425_163739.jpg
 
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This past Sunday, coming back from a car-show, my friends and I popped into an antique-junk store and I almost bought an old metal speaker box, likely a school PA thing — looked a lot like the grey cabinet in PunchySunshine's post above.

Alas some idiot thought they'd get more money if they brushed it with red. Would've made a cool little box for a Champ build, but I didn't feel like stripping off the red. See the box above I regret not buying it.

Why do Sanfred & Sons- wannabees always think they're "improving" something when it's better left untouched?


What I did buy:

View attachment 47039
Nye Viking Standard Key "Speed X"


Now I'm not the first to think of using one of these in a pedal, and indeed somebody has even gone to market with the concept, but I did think of a telegraph-key-in-a-pedal long before I ever heard of or saw someone else doing it.

This has been a long-time coming. I got 25% off, for CAD56.25. I had no idea if it was a good price or not, as my phone had run out of juice and I couldn't check online. So I gambled — most I've seen of them go from US$25 to US$100, got mine for about US$40 including box and instructions inside. The blue tag on the front is "Smalley's" as in Smalley's Electronics and no longer in business [nee Smalley's Radio Service], but it originally cost "$12.96ea" ! Other numbers/letters on the blue price-tag include "859" upper left, "YYS" upper right, and a "5" and a "7" just before the price itself.

I'm guessing this one's from the early '70s, based on info here: ...base has been made since the '30s with the same molds. I don't know, maybe it got put on sale Aug '59, maybe that "859" was "B59". Based on posts from the link above, it could be an '80s unit, based on the price, the black krinkle base means it could be from '57. BTW, They're still being made!

AHA! https://www.morseexpress.com/nye/ Made by Nye Viking since 1975, before that was other companies with rights to the key: "First made by Les Logan, then by E.F. Johnson, and now by Wm M. Nye Company". Production of my 310-003 model has been suspended, as of 8/01/17.
More info: https://ai4fr.com/main/page_ham_radio_cw_speedx.html

I got into CBs back when they were the rage because I couldn't afford a ham radio (couldn't afford the CB, it was a gift from the parental units).
Now I hear you don't even need to know morse-code to get your ham-radio license! 🧐


Okay okay... I'll stop spamming the thread, or should I say HAMming the thread. I've got more pics of the base, and the box etc, if anybody has interest, just PM me. This quick dive may result in a search for vintage tube-based ham-radios, the Speed X key is too nice to be stomped on...
I've been wanting to ham it up for years....decades?...sure let's roll with that...I recall there being an operator on the forum...at least their name seemed to be a callsign. How ya been?
 
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