SOLVED Faulty Blue Breaker

Idroj

Active member
Hi, I built this Blue Breaker and I have been trying to troubleshoot it with no luck. One time, only one time, I somehow got it to work for a moment and I enjoyed the hell out of it for 3-4 minutes only, sadly.

As you will see, I probably ordered wrong types of caps, please don't laugh, lol...

LED lights up upon switching on but no sound. When I bypass, LED still lights up but only faintly. Sound goes through bypass just fine.

I learned that I should clean the back of pcbs with IPA today on a previous post, maybe I should start right there?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

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Get a Weller WP series iron, variable speed fan control pot, a plastic 2 gang electrical box, an outlet, 3 conductor plug from an old computer, and a switch plate cover wit outlet and switch hole, and PRESTO you have a variable temperature soldering iron for $60, and Weller WP irons are pretty good, they are no Pace, but works for the hobbies. Plus the ST chisel tips seem to last longer than most.
 
Ok so I reflowed some joints a cleaned a lot. Also decided to start fresh with the wires but now I can't "unclog" the pads. I tried with pointy tools, needle pliers, solder sucker, and nothing.. Should I just tack the wires on top, before I end up destroying those pads too? Can they be drilled with a tiny drill bit or that will for sure make them unusable?

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Looks like there is still wire in the two jack ground holes. That will prevent the solder sucker from working. It helps if you have the helping hands, place the board so its vertical, place solder sucker at hole on one side, then place iron tip on other side of board. Its hard to get a good pull if tip and sucker are on same side. Just have sucker in place first.
 
Unplugging holes with solder is tricky. Usually a sucker will do it, but sometimes that solder is stubborn.
I recently did this by sticking a sewing pin in (one that doesn't stick to solder). Heat the solder then push the pin through the hole, then pull it out.

I've also heard that you can try to blow the solder out of the hole once you've heated it.
 
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Yes, there is still wire in them.. I was able to get one clean but I've tried with the sucker exactly how you explained it Chas, with the helping hand in a vertical position and no luck with that.. I've also tried with a pointy dental tool and nothing... they are super stuck clogged..
 
We did it again! It WORKS!! And it is probably my favorite pedal now!! What a bite this tone has! I got in a fight with those plugged holes with that dentist pointy tool and was able to open them and resolder the wires. I cleaned everything up one more time, and it just worked!! Then I switch the IC with the older one and it worked too, that wasn't it.. Only thing is this pedal while it's on bypass the blue LED stays on with very low light, is that normal? Thank you so much!!

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You most likely have a partial ground somewhere. Either at bottom of board where wires are or on the foot-switch. The question here is, does the dim light bother you or can you live with it. Or to look at it another way, do you want to risk messing up a working pedal for a led??
 
You most likely have a partial ground somewhere. Either at bottom of board where wires are or on the foot-switch. The question here is, does the dim light bother you or can you live with it. Or to look at it another way, do you want to risk messing up a working pedal for a led??
Does not bother me at whatsoever. I'm not opening it anymore! Thanks!
 
got in a fight with those plugged holes with that dentist pointy tool and was able to open them and resolder the wires.
I'm glad it worked out for you. I laughed at your "got in a fight", because when I did this with a sewing needle I left out the part where I got stabbed. I should get one of those dental tools.
 
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