Getting a PCB made from a gerber

Locrian99

Well-known member
I have been looking into various reverb options as of late, and found what I want to make. There is a gerber file available. I'm just a bit intimidated by this, well mainly I'm just not sure I'm doing it right it seriously seems too easy. I hopped on JLC PCB hit the gerber file button and voila it said it'd make me 5 for 27$. Theres a bunch of options, I have no idea what most of them mean etc. Can anyone tell me is the just standard thing should be fine? Its for the Riptide Reverb gerbers from the scientific guitarist website.

Or tell me a better way to do this maybe :)

Thx
 
I have been looking into various reverb options as of late, and found what I want to make. There is a gerber file available. I'm just a bit intimidated by this, well mainly I'm just not sure I'm doing it right it seriously seems too easy. I hopped on JLC PCB hit the gerber file button and voila it said it'd make me 5 for 27$. Theres a bunch of options, I have no idea what most of them mean etc. Can anyone tell me is the just standard thing should be fine? Its for the Riptide Reverb gerbers from the scientific guitarist website.

Or tell me a better way to do this maybe :)

Thx
I remember reading somewhere on here that the standard options are fine. That is how I ordered all the VFE stuff.
 
Yup, PCB fab houses like JLC are just that easy! Aside from choosing a solder mask colour you like, you are probably safe sticking with the standard options. (The instant quote also has short explanations of all the options next to the corresponding row.) I will remark on the surface finish though - JLC defaults to HASL ("hot air solder leveling"), which is basically a thin layer of solder on copper. This is cheap as dirt and works just fine. However, I'm a fan of the ENIG (electroless nickel/immersion gold) just because it's what OSH Park uses by default and I find that it's very high-quality and a bit more durable. I don't know if this has anything to do with anything but they say that HASL handles rework better than ENIG, but I've lifted pads on at least two HASL-coated boards and zero ENIG-coated boards during rework, so YMMV. It's probably not worth the extra cost in this case. You can also pay a bit extra to not have JLCs random order number printed on your board, which you might be interested in.
 
Do you have the BOM and the pick and place file too?
You need that for assembly.

For PCBs, I normally just check the lead-free options and leave the rest as is (unless I want a different color).
 
Well I got it ordered not assembled. Shipped it came out to around 5$ I think. Crazy
I know, right? I've had so many boards made as I learn and work on laying out components just to see if and how they work. $4 or $5 is nothing- and if they work, it's even better!
 
Where does one locate Gerber files? is there a blog somewhere that archives them like vero layouts?
The site the OP mentioned has a bunch. I've been looking through them this morning. Nothing I need so far, but it would be cool to get on the JLCPCB bandwagon.
I think @szukalski has posted his github with all the sheepylove stuff. There are definitely some of those that look cool.
 
Does anyone have some starter templates that use PedalPCBs knob locations/daughterboard conventions?
 
Scientific Guitarist's gerbers are in Github. Or at least that is where I found the DTR oil can delay and Percussor gerbers I had fabbed.

Which BTW, I have a few extras.
 
Back
Top