Help removing the buffer from a TC Boost + Line Driver & Distortion
- Thread starter stinkfeet
- Start date
Feral Feline
Well-known member
First thing I'd do is redraw the entire schematic in DIYLC, or whatever you're using to lay out your PCB.
Do you have/use DIYLC (DoItYourselfLayoutCreator)?
If not, it's a free/donate-something software program that's great for drawing schematics and layouts.
I find DIYLC easier to knock up a schematic quickly than in Eagle, but probably only because I'm still struggling to learn Eagle (and may switch to KiCad soon).
A redraw will clean up the schematic, make it easier to look at and —importantly— let you subtract/add bits of the schematic as needed.
As for the actual ripping out of the buffered bypass, I'm not knowledgeable enough to work that out.
I'll haZard a guess that the entire block at the end can be omitted.
Do you have/use DIYLC (DoItYourselfLayoutCreator)?
If not, it's a free/donate-something software program that's great for drawing schematics and layouts.
I find DIYLC easier to knock up a schematic quickly than in Eagle, but probably only because I'm still struggling to learn Eagle (and may switch to KiCad soon).
A redraw will clean up the schematic, make it easier to look at and —importantly— let you subtract/add bits of the schematic as needed.
As for the actual ripping out of the buffered bypass, I'm not knowledgeable enough to work that out.
I'll haZard a guess that the entire block at the end can be omitted.
I'm working on making a schematic in easyEDA right now. I was thinking the same thing about just removing that entire block, but I'm not certain.First thing I'd do is redraw the entire schematic in DIYLC, or whatever you're using to lay out your PCB.
Do you have/use DIYLC (DoItYourselfLayoutCreator)?
If not, it's a free/donate-something software program that's great for drawing schematics and layouts.
I find DIYLC easier to knock up a schematic quickly than in Eagle, but probably only because I'm still struggling to learn Eagle (and may switch to KiCad soon).
A redraw will clean up the schematic, make it easier to look at and —importantly— let you subtract/add bits of the schematic as needed.
As for the actual ripping out of the buffered bypass, I'm not knowledgeable enough to work that out.
I'll haZard a guess that the entire block at the end can be omitted.
View attachment 93974
Robert
Reverse Engineer
See the two lines that look like an equal sign? Those are the contacts, they slide left and right to close the switch.
Pink, Yellow, and Blue is one pole. (The connection will either be Yellow to Pink or Yellow to Blue, depending on switch position)
Brown, Green, and Purple is the other pole. (The connection will either be Green to Brown or Green to Purple)
Pay attention to the jumpers, green will always be connected to blue and brown regardless of switch position.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
@Robert — not to step on StinkFeet's toes, but, since you've already got most of the factory-schematic re-draw sorted...
Should someone put this in the Project Wish List?
Should someone put this in the Project Wish List?
Robert
Reverse Engineer
I was going to share the file but it appears I lost enthusiasm shortly after drawing that stage.
Thanks a lot for the good info and the simple diagram!
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