SOLVED Kentauride No Sound

joelorigo

Well-known member

Attachments

  • IMG_6928.JPG
    IMG_6928.JPG
    493 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_6930.jpg
    IMG_6930.jpg
    526.8 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_6931.JPG
    IMG_6931.JPG
    382.7 KB · Views: 78
Here is the Big Question?
How confident are you with that Modified Dual Gang Pot that is over the area in Question!!!
Is it touching, is there Solder blobs under it, I don't like the look of it???
I have to ask if it has insulators under it & the other 2 Pots as they look very close to the Board & could cause a Short?
 
Yes, that dual gang pot is for sure floating above the PCB and not touching any other pot. All the other pots have dust covers on them. Also, that pot is for the Klon side and that side is working. If it was touching something, wouldn't the Klon side be effected as well?
 
Last edited:
Can you unsolder & lift R1-1M from the bottom Pad & see if you still have Continuity between both R1 Pads?
You just mean unsolder and lift the the resistor out of the bottom pad only, keeping the top pad soldered, correct?

If the PCB was new / undamaged, should there be continuity between both pads of R1?
 
Oh sorry. No there is no continuity between the pads when in the ON position. Just in bypass.
So I can confirm that is correct and you can put the resistor back in place.
When in Bypass it goes to ground to stop circuit from Bleeding, I was under the impression that the Pedal was ''On'' as you were doing the Audio test which needs to be On othewise it will be silenced by the Footswitch in Bypass.
I have to go to Sleep now, it's 2.38am in the morning in Western Australia!
 
So I can confirm that is correct and you can put the resistor back in place.
When in Bypass it goes to ground to stop circuit from Bleeding, I was under the impression that the Pedal was ''On'' as you were doing the Audio test which needs to be On othewise it will be silenced by the Footswitch in Bypass.
I have to go to Sleep now, it's 2.38am in the morning in Western Australia!
Thank you for all your help. I ended up falling asleep last night while you were helping me :)
 
Ok this is weird. I got an email that there’s a new reply to this thread but I don’t see it here.

Copying from the email it said:

pretty much has to be one of these things
  1. bad solder joint on IN pad
  2. IN pad is messed up and not connected to trace (did you ever apply a LOT of heat to it, unsolder something from it, etc?)
  3. broken trace somewhere between IN and R1
  4. bad solder joint on R1
  5. R1 pad is messed up and not connected to trace (did you ever apply a LOT of heat to it, unsolder something from it, etc

I will answer here:
For #1, the IN pad has continuity with the tip of the input jack so that seems ok, no?
For #2, I don’t think I applied too much heat and did not unsolder anything from it.
For #5, same, I don’t think I applied too much heat and did not unsolder anything from it.
That was me, I wrote it, then realize 3, much better suggestions came in while I was writing it so i deleted mine.
 
Back
Top