CR0SSBL4DE
Active member
"Wake up, Mr Freeman. Wake up and smell the ashes fumes."
Solder fume extractor
- Thread starter Robert
- Start date
fontoponto
Well-known member
The soldering station from JBC is the best tool I've ever bought but the best fume extractor adapter for this thing is 1/3 of the price of the station.
And I would need the suction pump and filter which costs as much as a huge box full of pedals...
Look at this, the best invention with the worst price (50€/$55)
www.jbctools.com
I have this extractor but it's not powerfull enough...
And I would need the suction pump and filter which costs as much as a huge box full of pedals...
Look at this, the best invention with the worst price (50€/$55)
F3449 - Fume extractor for T245 ø 4 mm
I have this extractor but it's not powerfull enough...
ThatDude
Member
I use one of these usb fan vents and I mount it on a microphone boom stand so it is about 6” directly above where I am soldering. I also bought a longer 3” hose and run it to the closest window. The fumes rise into the fan assisted by the suction and right out the window.
rectifier
Member
Check out the Ikea Förnunftig Air filter. It‘s relatively cheap compared to traditional fume extractors, has a pretty big active carbon filter + hepa. New filters are only 18 euros and it‘s power is quite decent at level 3
check out my video on reddit below
If you dont like to use the filters, someone created a 3d printed adapter for a 100 fume extraction hose for it
www.printables.com
another one
www.printables.com
check out my video on reddit below
If you dont like to use the filters, someone created a 3d printed adapter for a 100 fume extraction hose for it
Ikea Förnuftig air purifier fume exhaust von Druckbar | Kostenloses STL-Modell herunterladen | Printables.com
Exhaust adaptor for the Ikea Förnuftig air purifier for outdoor ventilation | Kostenlose 3D-druckbare STL-Modelle herunterladen
www.printables.com
another one
Ikea FÖRNUFTIG air purifier fume extractor von IMBalENce | Kostenloses STL-Modell herunterladen | Printables.com
Add-on for Ikea FÖRNUFTIG air purifier to extract fume to outdoor vent | Kostenlose 3D-druckbare STL-Modelle herunterladen
www.printables.com
Last edited:
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Check out the Ikea Förnunftig Air filter. It‘s relatively cheap compared to traditional fume extractors, has a pretty big active carbon filter + hepa. New filters are only 18 euros and it‘s power is quite decent at level 3
View attachment 70538
check out my video on reddit below
If you dont like to use the filters, someone created a 3d printed adapter for a 100 fume extraction hose for it
Ikea Förnuftig air purifier fume exhaust von Druckbar | Kostenloses STL-Modell herunterladen | Printables.com
Exhaust adaptor for the Ikea Förnuftig air purifier for outdoor ventilation | Kostenlose 3D-druckbare STL-Modelle herunterladen
another one
Ikea FÖRNUFTIG air purifier fume extractor von IMBalENce | Kostenloses STL-Modell herunterladen | Printables.com
Add-on for Ikea FÖRNUFTIG air purifier to extract fume to outdoor vent | Kostenlose 3D-druckbare STL-Modelle herunterladen
I fucking hate Ikea, to put it very mildly, but this fugly fan/filter I would buy.
Could slap 2 on each side nor a cardboard box and Blammo! Mini paint booth!
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Paint booth!
I may have to buy a few more…
I may have to buy a few more…
Alan W
Well-known member
Just make sure that the fan motor does not produce any sparks!
Especially if you are spraying nitro lacquer. Not fun.
I suppose that depends on intent.
Alan W
Well-known member
I didn’t fully think through “Blammo!”…
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
So, back to ye olde soldering fume extractor. No matter how I place this sucker there's still too much goes straight up. It occurred to me that it would be easy to get a heavy steel base and a couple 16" long flex tubes (from eBay), a couple of brackets to fabricate and I should be all set to have my solder fume extractor OVER the soldering!!!! Ouuu..... I just had an idea. I can put LED's into the shroud to give me more light at the same time.
Ok! So a few more details to work out.
I did the same search "flex tubing" on AliExpress and all I got was sex toys, resistors and guitars. wtf??
I also posted this in 'on the workbench'
Ok! So a few more details to work out.
I did the same search "flex tubing" on AliExpress and all I got was sex toys, resistors and guitars. wtf??
I also posted this in 'on the workbench'
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
Due to a shipping error and a poorly trained customer service department, I have a 4' long 1200cfm stainless steel Zline hood. I had ordered the 38"....
But my workshop still needs the roof repaired, which is scheduled for this summer. In the meantime......(oh that's weird, TV said "In the meantime" a quarter second after I typed it).... I can use my flex tubing....
I scavenged the sheet metal off my dryer when it died in the 90's. Any time I need to fabricate anything I just go out with my 19,000 rpm mini circular saw and cut off what I need. I just have to drill a couple holes in these and put it in the vise and make angle brackets out of them, and I can hook one end to the fan shroud, the other to the flex tubing.
I found some G10 epoxy board that is 12" x 18". This was from a batch that I got that was too thick for circuit board turrets. It was supposed to be 1/8" but was 3/16". Got my money back when the guy wouldn't respond to "not as described" so it'll make a free base. I can put the flex tubes on one end, and the panavise will fit on top of it.
The weight of the extractor will hold the base from moving.
Schwing!
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
Well I spent all my free time today wrapping this up, no time left to actually test it. But IT'S ALIVE!!!
The two gooseneck tubes are very flexible and hold the weight to a certain level. If I go too low it just plops over, but this height is perfect.
Used a clamp and kept the metal on the opposite side of the sacrificial 2x4, as an extra precaution.
Ouu, baby! Just like downtown!!
Using a rubber cabinet foot as a spacer/tensioner
This has made so much more space on the bench by going vertical.
Plenty of room for my light, no need for LED's in the cowling.
And now the whole enchilada slides into the spot that just the extractor occupied when not in use.
The two gooseneck tubes are very flexible and hold the weight to a certain level. If I go too low it just plops over, but this height is perfect.
Used a clamp and kept the metal on the opposite side of the sacrificial 2x4, as an extra precaution.
Ouu, baby! Just like downtown!!
Using a rubber cabinet foot as a spacer/tensioner
This has made so much more space on the bench by going vertical.
Plenty of room for my light, no need for LED's in the cowling.
And now the whole enchilada slides into the spot that just the extractor occupied when not in use.
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
Got a chance today to do some soldering with my Modded fume extractor. WORKS PERFECTLY! Pinch me I must be dreaming. Sucked up every iota of smoke there was.
It occurred to me that these are normally used for lamps and that the stiffness would be improved if I filled the two gooseneck tubes with some 14ga solid core wire... Now I can put this into ANY position and there is no flopping!
So color me happy, my hour of fun is over and it's back to chores. Dammit.
It occurred to me that these are normally used for lamps and that the stiffness would be improved if I filled the two gooseneck tubes with some 14ga solid core wire... Now I can put this into ANY position and there is no flopping!
So color me happy, my hour of fun is over and it's back to chores. Dammit.
devito
Member
Cool thread, I've enjoyed seeing everyone else's solutions and thought I would share mine.
This is a much more intense approach than most people will take, and I respect that. During the pandemic I started getting really serious about circuits and knew I needed to have some sort of extraction. My first version was made of wood, two PC fans, a PWM controller for speed and a HEPA filter in a vertical stack basically, with a large 4" industrial tube as the intake, and that worked great for years! But since then, I have only gotten more serious and now build and mod guitar amps, and I wanted something more professional without paying thousands of dollars.
After a few more iterations, I brought in an engineer friend of mine and we designed and 3D printed the current iteration, so let me present: Mr. Sucky Sucky, V3.
Let's start with the fan. It's a 140mm Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM server fan. The reason I chose this fan was because of its CFM (which is the cubic feet per minute, the volume of air, in cubic feet, for each minute the fan moves) to noise ratio. You can absolutely get fans with higher CFM: but they are jet-engine, quad-copter loud. And even this fan is not "quiet", but it is best balance I have found so far between ear fatigue and effectiveness.
It is powered by an internal 120VAC to 12VDC power supply that is fused and takes a standard 120VAC IEC input on the back. The power supply connects to a "motor governor" that you can use to change the speed. I wouldn't recommend this particular motor governor. It does not do 5vDC PWM like the Noctua fan needs. I just had it sitting around already.
The filter is a 1" x 6" x 6" HEPA filter with activated carbon bead filtration, and that part is important. It is two parts, a carbon filter into a standard HEPA weave filter. Basically I make these by buying larger HEPA filters and cut them into squares (something like this). In studying this topic for my home and general use, I have found that carbon bead filtration, which is a carbon filter made up of small chunks of carbon beads enclosed in a mesh honeycomb like structure, is FAR more effective at removing smoke and smell than the cheap carbon-sprayed mesh that you see everywhere.
You will find this type of carbon filter on industrial and welding extractors. Carbon is proven to reduce / remove harmful substances from smoke, BUT with an important caveat: the effectiveness of the carbon INCREASES with the surface area that the filtered air comes in contact with. The carbon beads provide way more surface area than mesh and is much more effective at capturing smoke fumes and smell.
Here is a picture of the "bead" type vs the mesh type.
V3 has two "modes". For general use I use as pictured above in the "open" mode, which works exceptionally well if you are close to it (within 6 inches or so). However I also printed a shroud which connects to an articulating tube. This bracket slots on and off the front easily with keyed holes. This is really useful for amps, because they're big and I need to get into precise spots. Using the shroud/tube is way more effective in general.
It also has flexibility when it comes to filter and fan order. The filter and fan mount into this rubberized bracket that allow the order to be swapped. I still haven't decided which order works better, but I currently run it as filter -> fan -> exhaust.
I could go on and on, because this thing manages to somehow be both over-engineered and in desperate need of better engineering, but it works fantastic for my needs. I have found there is a vast and empty gulf between the cheapo, loud fan + mesh filter Alibaba / Amazon trash, which aren't much more than "better than nothing", and the effective but VERY expensive filters used by professionals.
I would like to make a V4... maybe one day I will sell the complete package to interested parties. Maybe one day.
I am happy to share the 3D print files for V3. I am sorry if you're reading this in the future and this link is dead.
CHEERS ALL!
This is a much more intense approach than most people will take, and I respect that. During the pandemic I started getting really serious about circuits and knew I needed to have some sort of extraction. My first version was made of wood, two PC fans, a PWM controller for speed and a HEPA filter in a vertical stack basically, with a large 4" industrial tube as the intake, and that worked great for years! But since then, I have only gotten more serious and now build and mod guitar amps, and I wanted something more professional without paying thousands of dollars.
After a few more iterations, I brought in an engineer friend of mine and we designed and 3D printed the current iteration, so let me present: Mr. Sucky Sucky, V3.
Let's start with the fan. It's a 140mm Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM server fan. The reason I chose this fan was because of its CFM (which is the cubic feet per minute, the volume of air, in cubic feet, for each minute the fan moves) to noise ratio. You can absolutely get fans with higher CFM: but they are jet-engine, quad-copter loud. And even this fan is not "quiet", but it is best balance I have found so far between ear fatigue and effectiveness.
It is powered by an internal 120VAC to 12VDC power supply that is fused and takes a standard 120VAC IEC input on the back. The power supply connects to a "motor governor" that you can use to change the speed. I wouldn't recommend this particular motor governor. It does not do 5vDC PWM like the Noctua fan needs. I just had it sitting around already.
The filter is a 1" x 6" x 6" HEPA filter with activated carbon bead filtration, and that part is important. It is two parts, a carbon filter into a standard HEPA weave filter. Basically I make these by buying larger HEPA filters and cut them into squares (something like this). In studying this topic for my home and general use, I have found that carbon bead filtration, which is a carbon filter made up of small chunks of carbon beads enclosed in a mesh honeycomb like structure, is FAR more effective at removing smoke and smell than the cheap carbon-sprayed mesh that you see everywhere.
You will find this type of carbon filter on industrial and welding extractors. Carbon is proven to reduce / remove harmful substances from smoke, BUT with an important caveat: the effectiveness of the carbon INCREASES with the surface area that the filtered air comes in contact with. The carbon beads provide way more surface area than mesh and is much more effective at capturing smoke fumes and smell.
Here is a picture of the "bead" type vs the mesh type.
V3 has two "modes". For general use I use as pictured above in the "open" mode, which works exceptionally well if you are close to it (within 6 inches or so). However I also printed a shroud which connects to an articulating tube. This bracket slots on and off the front easily with keyed holes. This is really useful for amps, because they're big and I need to get into precise spots. Using the shroud/tube is way more effective in general.
It also has flexibility when it comes to filter and fan order. The filter and fan mount into this rubberized bracket that allow the order to be swapped. I still haven't decided which order works better, but I currently run it as filter -> fan -> exhaust.
I could go on and on, because this thing manages to somehow be both over-engineered and in desperate need of better engineering, but it works fantastic for my needs. I have found there is a vast and empty gulf between the cheapo, loud fan + mesh filter Alibaba / Amazon trash, which aren't much more than "better than nothing", and the effective but VERY expensive filters used by professionals.
I would like to make a V4... maybe one day I will sell the complete package to interested parties. Maybe one day.
I am happy to share the 3D print files for V3. I am sorry if you're reading this in the future and this link is dead.
CHEERS ALL!
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
V2 of my modded Weller fume extractor is going to have dimmable LED's in the cowling. Got the parts. Just need the time. Being retired is busier than when I had a job, lol....
