A4 Clear Gloss Sheet with Adhesive Back for Inkjet Printers.How do you do the graphics? Is that a decal? Looks great!
I use Photoshop for all my Graphics.
A4 Clear Gloss Sheet with Adhesive Back for Inkjet Printers.How do you do the graphics? Is that a decal? Looks great!
Volume on mine is around 10.00 to 11.00 Oclock for most settings, This is typical with a ''B'' taper on volume to max out at 1.00 to 2.00 Oclock.
The Bright switch is very subtle. If you look at my numbering system with Depth 1 being the most Bass , at 6, 7 & 8 you can hear it just.
I would change C6 - 68nF to around 10nf & you should hear a bright switch.
If its too much try 22nf, Trial & error!
The 2 Led's only light up in Clip position 2 in the schematic, the Left Led will only light up in position 3 in the schematic.
Position 1 has No clipping, that's why its the loudest with the least Gain.
So to Test, just strum hard & look at the 2 Led's to see which setting on Clip Knob lights them up , should be 2nd position & 3rd position should make the Left Led light up
It may be Position 7 for the 2 Leds on mine & 6 for the left Led or it could be Positions 2 & 3, i can't remember.
Cheers music6000
I had 2 things I didn't like that were an Issue that were fixed by PedalPCB.Awesome, thank you for that! I was wondering if that one LED may have been for a boost stage or something, but that makes more sense. I was trying to figure out the schematic (I am not the GREATEST yet at reading them, but can manage slightly haha) to see the stages, but got lost quickly.
I will change that CAP out to see what the bright switch does for me, but makes sense I guess that it would be subtle.
As far as volume, I think I was just expecting more, but also thinking about it, it could be the test setup I chose to use with it as well. Maybe my expectations for volume were also higher. lol
Much appreciated for the advice, I will try this out!
I did indeed follow the independent boost, which is a great feature. I love the idea of being able to boost other drives without NEEDING this one of the active, but also being able to activate it with this pedal as well.I had 2 things I didn't like that were an Issue that were fixed by PedalPCB.
1. The Bypass - Originally R16 was marked as 1M. Changing to 10K got rid of loud popping when switching from Active / Bypass.
2. Optional Independant Boost - the OEM Boost only works when Overdrive is On
I love this place, and the knowledge shared here. It's the first forum I felt like I could ask questions, and not be ridiculed for doing so. I appreciate your time and effort in answering my questions, and bringing things to light!You probably used Diodes that had very low forward voltage that caused it to be low in volume.
As you rotate from one position to the next, you a breaking the connection so you are getting a ''No Clipping'' effect which raises the volume.
When I first learned about the Klon circuit, I of course was just beginning building and had no clue. I knew though later that the low Vf didn't always mean hot gain, and it was through pain and suffering that I found that out. lol I did just learn from you though that the Klon has gain AFTER the clipping and variable clean bleed, which I didn't really understand / know before, so thank you for that! I figured it was obviously special to the Klon circuit, but didn't know exactly how, so that adds another notch to my knowledge and understanding. (slow and steady as she goes! )This pedal (and most other TS derivatives) is basically unit gain after the clipping stage, so low Vf diodes will make for low volume. Not the case with the Klon which has gain after the clipping and variable clean-bleed. Things that sound good in one pedal design won't necessarily sound good in another. Still, you gotta experiment and find out!