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I also got some extremely hard to find frequency splitters. Chuck knows all about them…high tech stuff really…:rolleyes:
 
…and of course there are games and puzzles for the kids…and drinking contests for the adults…all here at Fig Labs..oh wait, that’s the wrong promo text…crap! quiet…they are still readin…
 
I drilled an enclosure for it, assuming I’ll want to play it regularly, rather than on the FrankenRig™. I was out of A25 pots (of all things) so I was waiting to that so I can at least test it…I think it’s starting to believe it belongs on the bench. That guarded yellow eye with a smug & judgmental gaze…

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Just checked…the A25s should arrive today so zippity do dah! :love:

Also on that order from Ross is a set of those nifty joysticks for joysticking things, and a bunch of 9mm for the set of SynchroTrems that came the other day. Yeah..I ordered two by accident instead of a Wah but I decided to use one for experimentation and the other to build stock. I’ll definitely pick up the wah on my next order though (y)
 
I drilled an enclosure for it, assuming I’ll want to play it regularly, rather than on the FrankenRig™. I was out of A25 pots (of all things) so I was waiting to that so I can at least test it…I think it’s starting to believe it belongs on the bench. That guarded yellow eye with a smug & judgmental gaze…

NvQzfAk.jpg
How do you test a pedal without soldering the pots? I have a few builds to test but I can't put the pots in as I don't have the drilled enclosures yet.

I tried using breadboard jumpers attached to the pots with alligator clips but the connection isn't stable.
 
How do you test a pedal without soldering the pots? I have a few builds to test but I can't put the pots in as I don't have the drilled enclosures yet.

I tried using breadboard jumpers attached to the pots with alligator clips but the connection isn't stable.
Oh I don’t. Sorry if my post was garbled. :ROFLMAO: That said, I suppose I might be able find a suitable connector :unsure:

Unless it’s some weird layout, I sometimes solder the pots before the enclosure arrives or is drilled. Switches can be a bit of a pain..but I’ve had great success.

The Whipped Cream Drive I’m also building has all three pots and the switch soldered…I haven’t even thought about an enclosure yet..LOL
 
Oh I don’t. Sorry if my post was garbled. :ROFLMAO: That said, I suppose I might be able find a suitable connector :unsure:

Unless it’s some weird layout, I sometimes solder the pots before the enclosure arrives or is drilled. Switches can be a bit of a pain..but I’ve had great success.

The Whipped Cream Drive I’m also building has all three pots and the switch soldered…I haven’t even thought about an enclosure yet..LOL
I just don't want to desolder anything. Even with the Engineer SS02 solder sucker, flux and wick, I still make a mess of the board.

My iron just doesn't cut it. I've just ordered the new Pinecil but it'll probably be months before I get it.

Time to design those enclosures and place an order with Tayda since painted 125Bs are unavailable in Europe ATM
 
Thank you! I‘ve got an upcoming countdown clock project with some Otis Elevator AN displays…it’s more of an actual project so I’m hopeful to have some fun with it.
I have a friend who works on Otis maintenance. I think more on the mechanical side. But let me know if you have questions, I can hook you up.
 
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I forwent…hang on is that even a word? Apparently…anyway, I skipped testing and boxed the Phase II up, as I had a spare enclosure. I haven’t putzed with the trimmers or even put the cover on but with random pot settings it fired up and sound just like the opening of Bad Sneakers. :love:

I’ll clean it up and post a report. (y)
 
I forwent…hang on is that even a word? Apparently…anyway, I skipped testing and boxed the Phase II up, as I had a spare enclosure. I haven’t putzed with the trimmers or even put the cover on but with random pot settings it fired up and sound just like the opening of Bad Sneakers. :love:

I’ll clean it up and post a report. (y)
It sounded like an electric sitar? Make sure to take note of those settings because I want em 😍

Bad sneakers and a Piña Colada my friend
Stomping on the avenue by Radio City
With a Transistor (or in @fig’s case, a whole bunch of transistors) and a large sum of money to spend
 
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I’m picking up a slight tick around 1Hz. I swapped the charge pump for another date series but same ting. At this point a reflow might be good, but it’s a slight tick (unless you probe IC6-1, then it thumps..LOL), so I’ll try an ICL7660 and maybe a MAX1044 just to compare before disrobing (y)
 
Now why isn’t that posted up in the build reports for all to see? That is some delicious raspberry colored figliciousness right there
 
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I use iRealPro which has jazz backing tracks but also many other genres (although I think you need to pay separately for those). It works really well for my needs, but beware: it’s midi sounds. The nice thing is that you can change tempo and key very easily. If I need headphone practice, I can plug my Fender Mustang micro which has BT so I can get the track and the guitar through it. Pretty seamless setup.
I picked up one of those Fender Mustangs to do a shootout between it and the iRig.

Stay tuned for the Dual of the Dongles!
 
Today I'm hoping to fix the ticking in the Phase II. I've been enjoying this pedal even with the built-in metronome. :ROFLMAO:

I have the prescribed solution from @benny_profane , but I want to take the opportunity....hey, it's not everyday you run across a perfectly good tick to experiment on, so yeah. I've got a couple of optional charge pumps to plug in...and I noticed it becomes very pronounced if you unplug the input cable...so there's that. Afterwards, I'll move the input cable and report back.
 
That didn’t take long. Both the MAX1044 and the I7660 had no effect on the tick. I snipped the existing wire and snaked a new one in, rather than remove the board. It’s now quiet. :)

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C9 looks a little "sunburned" there.......
 
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