Tayda UV Printing

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Here they are!

I'm using Affinity Designer 2 on a Mac to produce these and learned a couple of lessons as my first batch. I need to credit my wife for her SVG design skills on the D2 guitar pick logo, "Supersonic" text, and the Gold Pearl design. We started the process by using a Cricut-type machine for cutting vinyl, but neither of us liked the results (especially text) compared to what you folks are doing here with Tayda UV printing.

On the Supersonic (Mach 1), I used a gloss-matte layer on the entire top surface of the pedal which looks good in some light, but too washed out under bright incandescent settings. I'll probably avoid that in the future and just use the gloss layer on the printed areas.

Charlie is neat but the color difference between his shirt and skin ended up being too subtle, again, in certain lighting. The gloss varnish over printed color areas looks great on top of the matte white enclosure. I think the matte enclosures are the ticket...
EDIT: I didn't notice the reversed Bass and Treble controls on the board so my artwork is wrong. Lots of lessons learned with these first 3 builds!

The Gold Pearl (Aurum Drive) is gloss-matte on top of the black UV print area only and turned out as I expected. Probably my favorite of this set.
EDIT: ouch, looks like I reversed the Hi Cut and Voice switch sides so don't follow my design if you make one. The Aurum PCB doesn't match the real pedal's face which I also own so I didn't catch it. I'll need to reorder this one after fixing the artwork.

Thank you for all of the published tutorials and reference files here. They were a massive help and boosted my confidence to try this!
 
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Has anyone had any orders done recently? I ordered a single box a week ago and it still says it's in the queue for drilling. I don't see any notes about issues with the design, are they just super backed up right now?
 
Without drilling, mine waited about 2 days for powder coating and was printed a day later.
My understanding is that drilling is often the bottleneck in the process, so they may just be backed up. My order is drilling and powdercoating, no printing (it will be getting a faceplate).
 
Got a good dose of lessons learned today and perhaps being a bit impatient/assumptive about the control positions. My control labels were wrong on two of the pedals so I'll have to reorder them.
 
Got a good dose of lessons learned today and perhaps being a bit impatient/assumptive about the control positions. My control labels were wrong on two of the pedals so I'll have to reorder them.
FWIW you might want to look into whether you could possible just change the pot locations and run wires to the correct spots on the PCB. It might not work out or it might be too tight to get it working, but I did it once to swap two pots around and it worked ok in that case.

Solder lug pots might be easier, but you can do it with PCB mounted pots too, the soldering is just more annoying.
 
FWIW you might want to look into whether you could possible just change the pot locations and run wires to the correct spots on the PCB. It might not work out or it might be too tight to get it working, but I did it once to swap two pots around and it worked ok in that case.

Solder lug pots might be easier, but you can do it with PCB mounted pots too, the soldering is just more annoying.

Thanks, and great idea as a workaround. I'm lucky I was confirming pot values against the markings on the PCB so I caught it before soldering them. I've got several other enclosures to order so I'm just going to pause on final assembly of the Aurum and Angry Charles and re-print the UV. I chalk up the extra expense as a reminder on confirming all details and part of the hobby.
 
This is likely a problem only of interest to me, which makes it all the more awesome how Hugo responded to it, but here goes…

I’m using isolated jacks for both input and output on my production pedals. Enclosure ground is made using the Cliff brand EMI/RFI washer, which solders directy to my I/O board and makes ground connection to the main board thereafter.

An issue I have run into, because I’ve been using either mixed jacks or both isolated for a while now, is that Tayda often oversprays the inside of the enclosure, particularly on the inside of Side B where the jacks go.

I drew up a diagram for Hugo and asked if he could mask off the area to leave it raw:

View attachment 56972

Hugo asked for a day or two to respond and said they stock a masking tape that can withstand curing temps so he’s going to add this as an option with the other drilling/UV add-ons.

This is good because it is a bit of work to remove that finish from inside there and it will save me some time.
That's amazing. I had that problem too in one of my builds, the overspray was so thick it prevented the (open-frame) jacks from making contact with the enclosure and I was super confused for a while before I realized what the issue was. Great service.
 
Looks like they just added the ability to print on the sides and lid:

I saw the options when uploading pdf files, so I guess they upgraded it fully for that now. I understand printing on each side costs as much, but I'll probably just stick to the top for now. Or maybe the lid sometime, it could fit well with the "clear matte" enclosure and a more grungy theme, with the screws right there.
 
I just submitted a batch of jobs, is "on queue" a new status for drilling? I think it was just "pending" before. Not sure if it means anything else or if it's just the same thing as previously. Anyone have any recent estimates for how long it's going to take? Drill + paint + UV print for 5 enclosures.
 
Anyone have any recent estimates for how long it's going to take? Drill + paint + UV print for 5 enclosures.

On Sept 25th, I submitted an order to Tayda with 6 enclosures to get the drill, paint & UV print treatment. They just finished today. Not too shabby imo.
 
Without going back through 67 pages on here, does anyone know if there is an easy way to take someone’s illustrator PDF and import it back Into illustrator to work on it?

Thanks in advance.
 
Without going back through 67 pages on here, does anyone know if there is an easy way to take someone’s illustrator PDF and import it back Into illustrator to work on it?

Thanks in advance.
You just have to open it with or in Illustrator, and you don’t have to import it. It’ll ask you which page or pages as well.
 
Ordered on Wednesday 4th, shipped today Tuesday 11th. So just a week for five drilled, painted and printed enclosures, couple of custom drills too, and three different colors. I am impressed, although it's possible I just hit a lucky spot where there was no queue.
 
I have a question for you guys who order drilling and uv printing. I'm ordering a 1590XX enclosure and having it drilled, I always dill my own but this has tube vents. This is my first time having tayda drill for me, do I need to orient the UV print file to match the drilling? My thought process is if I don't orient it the same as the drilling then there is a chance they print it upside down. I've never thought twice about it before since I drill at home. Appreciate any feedback.
 
I have a question for you guys who order drilling and uv printing. I'm ordering a 1590XX enclosure and having it drilled, I always dill my own but this has tube vents. This is my first time having tayda drill for me, do I need to orient the UV print file to match the drilling? My thought process is if I don't orient it the same as the drilling then there is a chance they print it upside down. I've never thought twice about it before since I drill at home. Appreciate any feedback.
I recall other members mentioning that Hugo takes care of that but don’t quote me on it because I’ve never done it myself!
 
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