What's on the workbench?

PedalPCB

Admin (Robert)
Staff member
Cool so pretty much the cataclysm with a separately switchable modulation added in?

Yep. I haven't decided if I want to go 1590BB with modulation footswitch or 125B with a single footswitch.

How often would you want to turn on the modulation by footswitch? 🤔
 

ADAOCE

Well-known member
Yep. I haven't decided if I want to go 1590BB with modulation footswitch or 125B with a single footswitch.

How often would you want to turn on the modulation by footswitch? 🤔
Personally I think the bigger enclosure tradeoff just to get a footswitchable modulation is not worth it.

As it is I don’t know if this would make sense for me seeing as i have a cataclysm and a dark rift but if I didn’t have either I’d build this over the cataclysm for sure
 

PedalPCB

Admin (Robert)
Staff member
It might actually replace the Cataclysm project since it's essentially the same thing with modulation.

Turn Depth all the way down and it's identical.

If it goes into a 125B there's no reason to keep both projects.
 

ADAOCE

Well-known member
It might actually replace the Cataclysm project since it's essentially the same thing with modulation.

Turn Depth all the way down and it's identical.

If it goes into a 125B there's no reason to keep both projects.
Definitely. Also now that I think about it, I rarely use the dark rift for all the crazy things it can do. This pedal might actually be a decent replacement for the two of them on my board. I’ll always keep the dark rift but for board space I like this
 

Bricksnbeatles

Well-known member
Yep. I haven't decided if I want to go 1590BB with modulation footswitch or 125B with a single footswitch.

How often would you want to turn on the modulation by footswitch? 🤔
Assuming the modulation would instead be put on a toggle switch, it would be easy enough to wire up the modulation switch off-board for a footswitch if someone is so inclined. I vote 125B
 

PedalPCB

Admin (Robert)
Staff member
It's a 6-knobber so a toggle switch would be a bit crowded, but not impossible.

I was thinking you could just turn down the depth to disable modulation... we'll see.
 

jimilee

Well-known member
Opened up my Dracarys with the intentions of tracing it, or trying to anyway. It has a couple hundred parts, so I closed it back up. Too many to fit into a 125B, more than I want to try, anyway.
 

PedalPCB

Admin (Robert)
Staff member
Opened up my Dracarys with the intentions of tracing it, or trying to anyway. It has a couple hundred parts, so I closed it back up. Too many to fit into a 125B, more than I want to try, anyway.

I traced it a few months ago, it's in line for a layout sometime in the near future.

Be careful if you aren't familiar with SMD film caps (it has quite a few). You can't accurately measure them in-circuit but they're plastic and will melt almost instantly if you hit them with the soldering iron.

1641781403592.png
 
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jimilee

Well-known member
I traced it a few months ago, it's in line for a layout sometime in the near future.

Be careful if you aren't familiar with SMD film caps (it has quite a few). You can't accurately measure them in-circuit but they're plastic and will melt almost instantly if you hit them with the soldering iron.

View attachment 21252
Hey thanks for the heads up. Do you think you can fit it into a 125b, or a1590bb?
 
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PedalPCB

Admin (Robert)
Staff member
Apparently stacking PCB's is the latest concept!

Sometimes it's the only way if you don't want a 1590DD. It's also working really good for isolating noise sources from the audio path.

They might be a bit intimidating at first but after one or two they're fairly easy to assemble. Troubleshooting doesn't have to be torture either, all you need is some male/female jumper wires (like you'd use with a breadboard) and you can run both boards side by side on the bench.

With that said, I don't think they're a good candidate for a first time builder.... but neither are the circuits that would justify them.
 

jimilee

Well-known member
Sometimes it's the only way if you don't want a 1590DD. It's also working really good for isolating noise sources from the audio path.

They might be a bit intimidating at first but after one or two they're fairly easy to assemble. Troubleshooting doesn't have to be torture either, all you need is some male/female jumper wires (like you'd use with a breadboard) and you can run both boards side by side on the bench.

With that said, I don't think they're a good candidate for a first time builder.... but neither are the circuits that would justify them.
Oh no, I would greatly dislike trying to walk someone through troubleshooting a double board like that.
 
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PedalPCB

Admin (Robert)
Staff member
In some ways it can make troubleshooting easier.

Lamp not pulsing in the ElectroVibe Mini? You can remove the top board and set it aside. All of the LFO / lamp drive circuitry is on the bottom layer. Lamp pulsing properly but having an audio issue? Focus on the top board, aside from a pot and switch the signal path is up there.

Of course not all problems are that straightforward, it can just as easily become a nightmare in the wrong hands.

I suspect the real troubleshooting nightmares will be SMD projects since you can't always visually inspect the component values (or type) from photos. It's not likely you'd install a resistor where a cap goes in a through-hole build (although it has been done), but with SMD all bets are off.

Let's not even think about stacked SMD builds yet... o_O:ROFLMAO:
 
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