Feral Feline
Well-known member
That pun's a Howeller, but mine's a bit filmsy.
Isn't that just the renamed pussy melter?I searched and didn't find it... has there or will there ever be a Satchel Butthole Burner on the Workbench? I'm hearing good stuff about this pedal for my 80s hard rockin love.
I think it is differentIsn't that just the renamed pussy melter?
Reports are that they are the same Circuit!I think it is different
That is good to know.. I see PedalPCB has one of these!Reports are that they are the same Circuit!
LOLYep, it's the same circuit.
I've traced the "Poontang Boomerang" as well, if you're going for a theme.![]()
Well i know what going on my wishlist!
Any ring mods or things that otherwise go bWeep Bo0p Plo1nk in there?
Any ring mods or things that otherwise go bWeep Bo0p Plo1nk in there?
WHat's the "warning" bit? Is it supposed to be serious?That's... Weird. The original didn't have a tone switch, not even internally. Second version had clipping and tone switches internally. I think the second one also had 2 or 3 pairs of SMD LEDs (definitely LEDs just unsure how many) for clipping, other mode was no diodes. Jesus Christ JPTR is changing his pedals without even writing notes on them what changed.
EDIT: found the gut shot I took of mine. 2 germanium diodes and a clear red LED per side in the OG. Second version was 3 SMD LEDs per side with a dip switch to bypass them.
Um....I do that with all my builds during the inspection phase. And if there isn't enough flow through to make me happy I'll reflow that one leg until I can at least see some solder poking through. Is that wrong? I always thought this was a "best practice...."So you flip the board over after soldering each component to make sure you had through flow? That’s next level.
What BS Mojo parts are you seeing?
I think for me I'm a bit paranoid about cold solder joints. There was a point (maybe 40 pedals ago hahaha) that I was reflowing every joint on the board by default just to ensure no cold joints. And this was because of a pedal I built early on that didn't work, then after reflowing all the joints it worked. Never did track down which joint the problem was. I've gotten a lot better at doing a good solder joint to begin with and have a lot more confidence in my inspection capabilities and knowing what I'm looking for, but I still like to see a little flow through, then I KNOW it's got a solid molecular bond to the pad.Wrong? No.
Best practice?
If you can visualize what the pad/through plating/pad structure is like, think a spool. If solder completely fills a pad on one side, you have continuity to the pad on the other.
In short, filling the whole “spool” with solder is not required for a long lasting, durable connection.
On the other hand, some may find it visualizing distracting to see inconsistency on the “fill”.
I’m not one of those people and as much as I’m trying to treat form and function equally, that seems like overkill.