Missing Build Docs / Schematics

geoffrey said:
Just got my Curds & Whey in the mail :p

Any BOM, Build doc, or drill templates yet?
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Does the PCB have the values printed on it? If so, there's your BoM. This PCB is in the "maybe" pile for me, so I'd like to see a BoM before I commit to it.
 
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DAJE said:
Does the PCB should have the values printed on it? If so, there's your BoM. This PCB is in the "maybe" pile for me, so I'd like to see a BoM before I commit to it.
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EffectsLayouts and FuzzDog both have P&C boards and build docs that are probably a safe bet to base a parts order on
 
manfesto said:
EffectsLayouts and FuzzDog both have P&C boards and build docs that are probably a safe bet to base a parts order on
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I did do a search for P&C schematics and confirmed that there's nothing exotic in it, that's all I really needed to know. My other concern is that it's probably not going to fit a Tayda pre-drilled box, so I'll wait till there's a template and see how I feel about it.
 
DAJE said:
I did do a search for P&C schematics and confirmed that there's nothing exotic in it, that's all I really needed to know. My other concern is that it's probably not going to fit a Tayda pre-drilled box, so I'll wait till there's a template and see how I feel about it.
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Oh, yeah, looks like it’s three across the top row and two on the bottom, no real way to retrofit that config on a pre-drilled enclosure.
 
ChrsGuit said:
I think I have everything, minus the two 1N747a's.
I bout screwed the pooch on the two Germanium diodes. I ordered Red Band Soviet Diodes on the recommendation of another poster, and just happened to watch a video last night explaining Soviet diode bands are usually ANODE instead of Cathode... Glad I saw that before I installed them
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Oh man! Yeah, I’ve gone thru that too. Although, I usually docket all my clipping diodes, so I just had to reverse them.lol A cheap, lil components tester off of the Bay of E can help out a lot with stuff like that. The only thing those testers have given me trouble with are jfets. For some reason they have a hard time knowing what they are.
 
DAJE said:
I did do a search for P&C schematics and confirmed that there's nothing exotic in it, that's all I really needed to know. My other concern is that it's probably not going to fit a Tayda pre-drilled box, so I'll wait till there's a template and see how I feel about it.
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I may tinker with coming up with own template, cause I'd really like to build it now. But I may have to wait until @Robert posts a drill template
 
geoffrey said:
I may tinker with coming up with own template, cause I'd really like to build it now. But I may have to wait until @Robert posts a drill template
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On first glance it looks like a 6-knob layout with the bottom-middle pot missing (and the switch holes will be smaller diameter, but I usually drill switch holes out to 7mm in case I need wiggle room), that’s what I designed my decal around anyway.
 
Drayve85 said:
Oh man! Yeah, I’ve gone thru that too. Although, I usually docket all my clipping diodes, so I just had to reverse them.lol A cheap, lil components tester off of the Bay of E can help out a lot with stuff like that. The only thing those testers have given me trouble with are jfets. For some reason they have a hard time knowing what they are.
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Oh yeah dude, already got myself one... the little clear acrylic box tester you have to assemble for some reason?
That thing showed me the way on those diodes after I saw that video on the anode/Cathode being opposed
 
Do you have a schematic for UwotM8? I'm getting an oscillation if I turn the gain up just a little bit.
 
@Robert Not sure if this had been mentioned yet but I just got a new unicab in the mail from ya today and the pcb looks EXTREMELY different from the build doc. I’m just gonna go off the silkscreening.
 
I remember hearing that the Zap Machine uses transistors that are out of production, which was the reason it was such a limited run. Is there a BOM, what's the Q3 transistor or equivalent for the Double Tap?
 
Coda said:
Is the schematic from the Sergeant Fuzz available?...
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Seconded. Looking forward to building this when the doc is available with the component values (and schematic)

I had no problem completing the Thunder Chicken PCB without a doc because the component values are on the board silkscreen -- sweet! The Sergeant has traditional component identifiers (R1, C1, Q1, etc.) so no clue as to the values.
 
krupdb8 said:
Seconded. Looking forward to building this when the doc is available with the component values (and schematic)

I had no problem completing the Thunder Chicken PCB without a doc because the component values are on the board silkscreen -- sweet! The Sergeant has traditional component identifiers (R1, C1, Q1, etc.) so no clue as to the values.
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The actual PCB is labeled. I built mine a mo their two ago. It is excellent. I made the bias external…
 
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